Dual oven with 6 wires

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I bought a used dual oven, which has 6 wires coming out of it.
Unfortunately, it didn't come with a manual, and even the online installation instructions aren't much help. (The manual, as well as the tag on the oven, only refer to "3-wire"...)

Model: Kitchen Aid YKEBS277WB-0
SN: XX4901044

The only manual I've found is here.
And here are some pictures of the wires, and where they end up (including the tech sheet that was inside the oven).

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Drawing looks like it is for a single oven. Guess is the blue and yellow wires go to the second oven. Trace them to verify. If so connect the yellow and blue to the same feed as the red and black.
 

DonL

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I bought a used dual oven, which has 6 wires coming out of it.
Unfortunately, it didn't come with a manual, and even the online installation instructions aren't much help. (The manual, as well as the tag on the oven, only refer to "3-wire"...)

I would not hook up Blue or Yellow, Measure the voltage on them after you hook up Red(L1), Black(L2), White(Neutral) and Green(Ground).

Blue and Yellow may be a Voltage Output for a Range Hood / Fan that runs on 120 VAC.

Good Luck.
 

DougB

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R = Red = Line Voltage 1 - this is your 240 volt.
B = Black = Line Voltage 2 - this is your 240 volt.
W = White = Neutral.
G = Ground.

Y = Yellow - looks like this is the primary to a 12v transformer for meat probe - Don't connect this.
BL = Blue - looks like it is tied to the red - don't connect - see if the ovens work.
 

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quote;
Y = Yellow - looks like this is the primary to a 12v transformer for meat probe - Don't connect this.
BL = Blue - looks like it is tied to the red - don't connect

Have you EVER seen a "12 v transformer" that needed a #10, or larger wire? What is there about the blue wire than makes you think it is "tied to the red"? IF SO, why was it NOT capped off in the original installation?
 

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I tried to follow the yellow and blue wires, and it seems that the yellow one goes to the selector switch (where you choose the baking mode), and the blue one goes to some motorized lever inside the oven (which, I assume, locks the door in cleaning mode).
So, these two might be somehow related to the cleaning mode of the oven?
 
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I called Kitchen Aid, and they told me that they have no information anymore about this particular model, and recommended I should ask an electrician for help...

Oh well, I guess I'll just start randomly connecting wires, and hoping for the best...

P.S. I did hook up red, black, white & green (to L1, L2, neutral & ground), and the top oven works, but not the bottom one. So I guess I might have to join red & black to blue & yellow after all? (I measured them, and they seem to not carry any power.)
 
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OK, here is what confuses me: those yellow and blue wires look to be #10, let's say they are.

So with the color and the size and the fact that they are in the conduit, one must assume that they are mains, needing two hots at opposite potential.

But there are classic red and black wires as well, which certainly are mains, needing two hots at opposite potentials.

So why have four large wires coming out of the oven if the yellow and blue could just be connected to the red and black inside the oven?

Unless it is intended that the oven be served by two different 30 amp breakers. One for the red and black and the other for the yellow and blue.

Sounds unlikely, but I'm at a loss for another explanation for four #10 hots coming out of the oven.

Yeah, I agree, if in the unlikely event that the two ovens draw that much power, why not serve it with one 50 amp circuit?

Shame that the manufacturer can't explain their thinking on this.
 
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Reach4

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I think that means the oven will draw 6.1 KW (25.4 amps) when fed with 240 VAC, and 4.6 KW (22.1 amps) when fed with 208.

This goes along with a resistive load of about 9.4 ohms.
 
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Jadnashua

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If you could find the instructions, it would state, but as a class, generally, the 80% rule would apply, so that value can't be more than 80% of the capacity of the circuit feeding it, or 31.77A. Since you won't find a CB that size, you'd have to go with either a 35 or probably 40A circuit. That still doesn't help figuring out what leads need to go where for power!

From the diagram, it looks like the BL (blue) is tied to the R (red) at the power inlet. The only places Y shows up is after a switch or other device, so I don't understand why it is bare out there. At least, I don't see Y anywhere else in the diagram. It may not be used except in certain configurations.
 

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Well, since it seems that nobody ever dealt with a setup like this before, I gave it a (somewhat random) shot, connected yellow & red to red (L1), and blue & black to black (L2), stood back with a fire-extinguisher on the ready, and flipped the switch.
And... everything worked just fine.
Top and bottom oven heat up, lights work, controls light up, and no smoke anywhere (all hooked up to one 40amp breaker).
Perhaps someone else, who might come across a similar weird monster (and this thread) will be able to save themselves some head-scratching...
 

DonL

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Well, since it seems that nobody ever dealt with a setup like this before, I gave it a (somewhat random) shot, connected yellow & red to red (L1), and blue & black to black (L2), stood back with a fire-extinguisher on the ready, and flipped the switch.
And... everything worked just fine.
Top and bottom oven heat up, lights work, controls light up, and no smoke anywhere (all hooked up to one 40amp breaker).
Perhaps someone else, who might come across a similar weird monster (and this thread) will be able to save themselves some head-scratching...


Nice work.

Enjoy.
 
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