so we have passed our rough plumbing (thanks to you guys), and framing inspections. The electrical is this afternoon. Next is insulation and drywall. Can anybody give me an idea what the insectors will be looking for with this? Finding info about plumbing wasnt too hard--you guys and a good book, same with electrical, but I dont even know where to start on the drywall and insulation
drywall and insulation codes requirements
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Toolaholic
General Contractor Carpenter
my 2 cents
vapor barrier facing interior! that's the paper,or foil covering.
go to johns mansville web site
vapor barrier facing interior! that's the paper,or foil covering.
go to johns mansville web site
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Prashster
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my 1 cent
Insulation:
Proper R-value used
Vapor barrier installed correct way
All penetrations sealed
Light Fixtures properly rated for insulation contact
Drywall:This link is old and for Denver, but I'm sure most of it's relevant
http://www.codecheck.com/pdf/building/drywall.pdf
Insulation:
Proper R-value used
Vapor barrier installed correct way
All penetrations sealed
Light Fixtures properly rated for insulation contact
Drywall:This link is old and for Denver, but I'm sure most of it's relevant
http://www.codecheck.com/pdf/building/drywall.pdf
A few more specific questions
that drywall document is helpful. I have done both these jobs multiple times before, and am confidant we can do it well, but am worried about meeting code requirement. For example, we did not pass our electrical inspection, not because we did anything wrong--our circuits were all fine, wires properly secured, etc, but we didnt realize that boxes had to be "made up" before the inpection. Stripping wire seemed like a logical thing to do when you hook up the recepticals, etc. And I dont want to end up in the same situation with the other inspections.
So is 12 in still the proper spacing for screws? Does anyone know if IRC allows adhesive? Is adhesive good, easier, reccommended?
And it looks like all I have to worry about with insulation is common sense kinds of things? are there rules about staple spacing? Also we are going to insulate some inside walls--ie around the bedroom. Are there rules about which way the insulation faces in that situation? Johns Manville says frequently--check your local codes.
that drywall document is helpful. I have done both these jobs multiple times before, and am confidant we can do it well, but am worried about meeting code requirement. For example, we did not pass our electrical inspection, not because we did anything wrong--our circuits were all fine, wires properly secured, etc, but we didnt realize that boxes had to be "made up" before the inpection. Stripping wire seemed like a logical thing to do when you hook up the recepticals, etc. And I dont want to end up in the same situation with the other inspections.
So is 12 in still the proper spacing for screws? Does anyone know if IRC allows adhesive? Is adhesive good, easier, reccommended?
And it looks like all I have to worry about with insulation is common sense kinds of things? are there rules about staple spacing? Also we are going to insulate some inside walls--ie around the bedroom. Are there rules about which way the insulation faces in that situation? Johns Manville says frequently--check your local codes.
Prashster
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You should be able to get a checklist from the township inspector, or at least to talk to your inspector to ask what he's looking for. Personally, I think a preparatory call to the inspector is a good 'political' move anyway.
I've read a lot of debates about gluing vs screwing vs nailing and I can tell you this much: it is unclear whether glue, nails, or screws produce stronger bonds. Nails have larger heads to secure the sheetrock better. Screws have threads that hold the wood better, and glue has a larger surface area for holding. Most people who glue still screw/nail the perimeter and glue the center. I am not convinced that's necessary. But, if yr gonna be taping/mudding the seams anyway, perimeter screws/nails don't create any extra post-fastening work for you. The only doubts I've heard about adhesive are speculations that it might fail after 50 years instead of 100. Kudos to forward thinking, but my thought is that remodeling tastes have far shorter lifespan than that. In 50 years, my guess is that there will be a much better alternative to drywall available - something light, heat and sound insulating, fire-and-water-proof, and a cinch to finish. Ahhh, we can dream!!!
I've read a lot of debates about gluing vs screwing vs nailing and I can tell you this much: it is unclear whether glue, nails, or screws produce stronger bonds. Nails have larger heads to secure the sheetrock better. Screws have threads that hold the wood better, and glue has a larger surface area for holding. Most people who glue still screw/nail the perimeter and glue the center. I am not convinced that's necessary. But, if yr gonna be taping/mudding the seams anyway, perimeter screws/nails don't create any extra post-fastening work for you. The only doubts I've heard about adhesive are speculations that it might fail after 50 years instead of 100. Kudos to forward thinking, but my thought is that remodeling tastes have far shorter lifespan than that. In 50 years, my guess is that there will be a much better alternative to drywall available - something light, heat and sound insulating, fire-and-water-proof, and a cinch to finish. Ahhh, we can dream!!!
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yeah, that denver sheet says put screws in the perimiter.
we have called the inspector, and talked to him, but I guess didnt think far enough forward, didnt ask drywall questions. And unfortuantely, our experience here is that to get a callback takes a week to 10 days. It might be good to schedule a consultation appt. that can happen tomorrow. After 8 weeks of replacing pipes and pulling wires, I am ready to be done.
thanks for all the input!
we have called the inspector, and talked to him, but I guess didnt think far enough forward, didnt ask drywall questions. And unfortuantely, our experience here is that to get a callback takes a week to 10 days. It might be good to schedule a consultation appt. that can happen tomorrow. After 8 weeks of replacing pipes and pulling wires, I am ready to be done.
thanks for all the input!
Sulconst2
New Member
ask the inspector about rock inspection (if any) when he does insulation inspection.
JDkimes
Engineer
You can go to HD or find on Amazon.com a series of booklets called Code Check. They give the basics in a quick reference fashion for all building, plumbing, electric, structural codes and/or you can buy the IRC and UPC code books of which code check gets there codes from.
For 1/2" drywall, studs or joists 16" o.c. using screws the code requires 12" spacing for ceilings and 16" for walls. Some inspectors think that it also 12" for walls but they're wrong. My inspector said it was 12" he checked his code book and said "You're right, but it's common practice to do the walls 12 inch spacing" I assume what he means is that most drywall laborers can't remember "wall- 16" and ceiling 12 inches" so they tell them it's all 12"
For wall insulation code is R-13 for walls unless it's a basement then it's R-11. Some require vapor barrier toward living space some away, depends on where you live. Quick call to the inspector will solve that question.
Your electric book must not be too good or it would have told you how to prepare for inspection. The Black and Decker book I have does that.
For 1/2" drywall, studs or joists 16" o.c. using screws the code requires 12" spacing for ceilings and 16" for walls. Some inspectors think that it also 12" for walls but they're wrong. My inspector said it was 12" he checked his code book and said "You're right, but it's common practice to do the walls 12 inch spacing" I assume what he means is that most drywall laborers can't remember "wall- 16" and ceiling 12 inches" so they tell them it's all 12"
For wall insulation code is R-13 for walls unless it's a basement then it's R-11. Some require vapor barrier toward living space some away, depends on where you live. Quick call to the inspector will solve that question.
Your electric book must not be too good or it would have told you how to prepare for inspection. The Black and Decker book I have does that.
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