drilled well went dry

Discussion in 'Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog' started by Kasne, Oct 25, 2012.

  1. Kasne

    Kasne New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Location:
    Ontario
    hello,

    my back story, built my house 12 years ago and the well worked fine till someone behind me built a house and dynamited there well, now after have a professional come in we found out that im getting 1 liter a min. So 3 weeks ago I decided to run to there dug well 425 feet from the house. had a5ft deep trench dug ran 1in 75psi csa approved piping and 2 14/2 wires new 2wire 3/4hp submersible pump 3 new check valves in the pipe length new pressure switch and 53 gallon tank bladder. switch is set at 30/50 and the tank is at 28psi. that pump is 10ft down the dug well. oh and the pump is wired 2blacks to one wire 2whites to the other and the 2 grounds to the green.


    now my problem is, the system runs fine for about 3-4 cycles then the pressure drops to 0 psi, i manually lick the pressure switch on and it goes to 30psi and stops building pressure. i run to the well and fell the line and u can feel the pump humming. run back and the pressure is the same so i turn of the breaker, wait 4-5mins turn the breaker back on and the system is fine again for another 3-4 cycles.

    any ideas?
  2. valveman

    valveman Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    4,495
    Location:
    Lubbock, Texas
    You are still running out of water. Set the pump deeper in the well. There is another 600 gallons of water stored in that 425' well. You just have to set the pump at 425' to be able to use it.
  3. Kasne

    Kasne New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Location:
    Ontario
    no im not running out of water the well only drops about 4inchs it has a great recovery rate, the well is 15feet deep and 425 feet from the house.
  4. LLigetfa

    LLigetfa DIYer, not in the trades

    Messages:
    4,067
    Location:
    NW Ontario, Canada
    I think you misread... the dug well is 425 feet away horizontally, not 425 feet deep.
  5. valveman

    valveman Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    4,495
    Location:
    Lubbock, Texas
    OK, my bad. Then you need a clip around amp meter to see if the pump is still running when the pressure drops to zero. "Manually clicking the pressure switch on" makes me think you have a M4 switch with low pressure cut-out. You probably have too much air in the tank and the bladder is hitting the bottom (zero pressure) before the pump gets started. Still doesn't explain why you have to turn the breaker off for a few minutes before it goes to working again.
  6. LLigetfa

    LLigetfa DIYer, not in the trades

    Messages:
    4,067
    Location:
    NW Ontario, Canada
    Do you think maybe the motor is running hot with over 400 feet of #14 wire and assuming no sleeve on the pump? I'm not sure how a 2-wire motor switches between start and run.
  7. LLigetfa

    LLigetfa DIYer, not in the trades

    Messages:
    4,067
    Location:
    NW Ontario, Canada
    Ja, those nuisance cutouts can be a real PITA. Lose that switch and go with either the EPS15/99 or Cycle Sensor.
  8. bcpumpguy

    bcpumpguy New Member

    Messages:
    70
    Location:
    Langley BC
    75 psi line that is csa rated? where do you find that stuff? 425 feet of wire on a 3/4 hp is a little to far, check this page http://www.franklin-electric.com/aim-manual/page-11.aspx should have gone with #12 gauge at least. if you wanted to do things as per canadian code you take the lenghts in the table and multiply by .6. Im betting your problem is undervoltage which is causing high amps and the overload in the motor to trip.
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