Drain pipe for washing machine. (discovered mine has 2 -22 degree joints)

[MTcummins]

quote; They did this b/c of the tight space in there, but this makes the trap much deeper,

Actually the trap is only SLIGHTly deeper and it has absolutely NO EFFECT on the draining, (in fact, it is almost exactly the same as when manufacturers supply a standard street ell instead of the short pattern one). Even a "retired plumber" should know that it is NOT "the wrong fitting", but the right one used in reverse, which is often done when necessary because of conditions.. The WRONG part about the drain is that they did NOT install a cleanout fitting above the drain's tee. Whoever did the work really "incinerated'' the pipes and studs in the area, which implies it was NOT done by a professional plumber.

Not doubting you HJ, just trying to learn. Is this actually acceptable to do a trap like this by code? I've seen it a few times(in tubs most times, to get around some other pipe or something), and usually those drains have been fairly slow draining. They drained, but much more slowly than I like to see. Seemed like they needed more gravity pressure than normal from the water level in the tub to be able to force the water out.

I know that you're only adding about an inch to the height there, but that seems pretty significant to me. I'm no expert in fluid dynamics or whatever would dictate this, but it seems to me like there would be much greater resistance to flow with a trap that tall. Is this incorrect?

 

[Nickyv]

I'll give myself a day.... .. will have experienced DIY'ers with me on the project.

I will say that I honestly feel that if I had the drain pipe 8 inches or 10 inches taller the extra pipe would create enough volume to hold the water that is currently over flowing or at least 60% of the time it over flows...

once it starts to over flow I shut down the washing machine and the water quickly resides down the drain pipe... start the machine, sometimes it does not overflow other times you will hear the tone/pitch of the water moving up the pipe and then shut the machine off.. it is so sporadic that it is crazy. also some times the water will just hover right at the top of the drain pipe and then go down..

 

[Sponsor]

 

[MTcummins]

Well, if you can, try to get that trap installed properly. Even if it "shouldn't" theoretically make a difference as hj said, the real world sometimes just does funny things. The U-shaped piece of the trap should have the non-hub end of the 90 that completes the trap inserted into it. A hub is the part that you stick a pipe into, the trap elbow has one end with a hub, currently connected to the U part, and one non-hub end, currently inserted into the SanTee. If you can get enough room to put this in the other way, the trap will be less deep and should (I think) flow a little more freely. Since that stud on the right is already cut away, you can probably cut out a bit more of it if needed to get the trap to go in the right way. If you need to do the 2 22.5's offset again, there's no harm in that.

 

[JohnjH2o1]

There is nothing wrong with the trap. At the most the trap seal is a 1/2" deeper. It has NO effect on the flow of water.

John

 

[hj]

quote; honestly feel that if I had the drain pipe 8 inches or 10 inches taller the extra pipe would create enough volume to hold the water that is currently over flowing or at least 60% of the time it over flows...

That just addresses the "symptom" and does NOTHING about the real problem. IF it were the elbow on the trap, the backup would happen IMMEDIATELY, before you even had a chance to hear the change in sould as it fills up the pipe, and would happen EVERY time. You hear the sound changing gradually because the water is also filling the main pipe to the same elevation as in the standpipe. Install a cleanout and snake the line. You CANNOT snake the line properly through the drain's riser, and you do NOT want to go up on the roof to snake it. Your "drill operated snake" is a "joke" and cannot solve the problem. The "plumber's snake" will NOT go around the trap AND/OR down the pipe if he inserts it into the drain's standpipe.

 

[Nickyv]

thanks, Anyone have an idea as too how old this plumbing set up is? house built in 1985? could this be the original set up?

why not snake from the roof? just curious..

I take it that the best thing to do is place the clean out on the vent pipe that is extending up from the drain pipe that goes into the foundation about 40"-46" inches from the foundation or place lower? appearance of the clean out cap does not matter, snake it and go from there. I placed a red "X" on the rough placement of the clean out which is behind the washing machine box and sheet rock. see how the snake goes just for a temporary solution and then replace everything from the drain/vent pipe to the washing machine box

 

[JohnjH2o1]

There is no reason that you can't snake the line from the roof. In my area that is how most line are cleared. But most homes are one story.

John

 

[Nickyv]

Thanks John, my house is a 2 story home..

any pointers on the location of the clean out placement so that I can bypass the P-trap, San Tee and 90 * fitting.

 

[MTcummins]

Thanks John, my house is a 2 story home..

any pointers on the location of the clean out placement so that I can bypass the P-trap, San Tee and 90 * fitting.

anywhere in the vent line coming up from the santee would be fine. I like to hide mine behind the washer so you don't see it, some people like to put it high enough that you can snake it w/o moving the washer. I don't think there is a specific code requirement either way (but someone please correct me if I'm wrong on that), its mostly just preference. If putting it behind the washer, put it up fairly high, so that if there's standing water in the line due to a clog, it doesn't dump all over the floor when you open the cleanout.

snaking from a roof can be problematic, in that it won't necessarily get to the place your clog is. If it was in a horizontal line between your washer standpipe and the main stack, for example, snaking through the roof would do nothing. snaking from the closest known point of problem usually gives the best chance of hitting the problem the first time.

also, dragging a snake to the roof can be a bit dangerous and burdensome.

 

[Nickyv]

UPDATE-
I went ahead and snaked the vent pipe down into the drain pipe and pulled out a hand full of vines. (this was with the smaller 1 inch type since i was tired of waiting for the larger snake and in the meantime I added a straight pipe that was 14 inches taller then the previous pipe since that one came off in my hand at the p-trap, it appears there was hardly any glue, minimal amount of pipe recessed into the P-trap and no sign of primer on the original fitting, i moved the old pipe with 22* fittings about 1/2 inch to an inch and that popped off in my hand, the longer pipe got us through the holiday and started to over flow again) This vines were located about 3-4 ft past the point where the drain pipe meets the foundation. I do have a bunch of vines on the outside of the house where the washing machine drain pipe is located... just laid down a bunch of weed killer.. below is what I pulled out

I was able to see large chunks of vines pass threw/by the clean out in the front yard, one clump was about the size of 2 softballs (and about 4-5 golf ball size clumps). The water is now running past the main clean out at a higher rate and more volume of water. still need to figure out where the vines are penetrating the drain pipe, I hope not through the foundation.

next step is to get a professional out and also see what the deal is.

 

[Nickyv]

Here is the straight pipe I added since the original popped off in my hand with barely moving it.. The extra 14 inches gave me about a liter of space and this worked for 2-3 weeks, about 60 washes or so....

now that I pulled out the vines when the washing machine drains there is no change in the tone of the sound that you hear if the water was "climbing" up the tube, or the pitch of the sound that the water makes as it rises to the top of the drain pipe does not occur when draining, it stays at a low gurgle.

 

[Nickyv]

ODD THING THAT I Noticed is that the vent pipe is 2 inches in my attic but at the point where it meets the drain pipe it is 1 1/2 inches..

anyone know the reason why?

 

[Terry]

ODD THING THAT I Noticed is that the vent pipe is 2 inches in my attic but at the point where it meets the drain pipe it is 1 1/2 inches..

Yes, as the vents get higher, more and more fixtures are tied in. Therefore, then tend to get bigger as they near the roof.

 

[Nickyv]

thanks.. I take it that the issue with the vines/roots can be all across the board?

 

[Cwhyu2]

Put a clean out tee above the tee your washer discharges into.Will make it easier to rod out.

 

[Nickyv]

I should keep the clean out above the top of the drain pipe that the washing machine drain hose goes into, correct? I drilled a small hole where the duck tape is to run my smaller snake. I do have the 2 inch clean out to add to the new set up. also, one person suggestion to place the clean out at a height to where you can place your snake ontop of the washing machine so that you do not have to move the washing machine.

should I then just route the line twice a year? also route if I start to notice the flow of water is not at the rate it should be.. correct?

 

[Cwhyu2]

That is okay to put it at chest high.Also you might think about installing one below the waste tee to be able to run a larger cable through the line.

 

[Bluebinky]

While you are in there, look at the AC drain and make sure it's glued...

 

[Schustermarie54]

I once had the same problem. I put a piece of PCV (it was either 3/4 or 1 inch...don't remember) into the drain hose and used a pipe clamp to hold it. That constricted the drain size and reduced the volume. It did help. OF course I'm not sure if that is good for the pump or not. Some of you may have an idea on that.