dont know if this setup is right

[lootnrok33]

hello. was wondering if anybody could help with this problem. 5 days ago, my pump quit working(submersible 1/2horse 2 wire). thru friends found a guy who works for his dad replacing pumps. he(not the father) pulled the old pump(truck crane)and in that process the old pump/motor broke @ the end of the pipe where its connected. he didnt act surprised and says that happens. he said best solution was to hammer it down further into the well then set the replacement a few feet above it. the well is 85 foot deep and the motor was set @45 feet. anyhow he did beat it down a few feet. he put in a gould used 1 horse (3 wire 03 model). then proceeds to reinstall all the 1" down pipe(galv)back down the well. once he arrived @ the top of the well he put the seal on ,a 1" m/a connects to the "joint" above the seal then procceeds as follows from right to left meaning from the right= my casing, to the left= my tank(bladder type is about 3 1/2 feet tall he said it was small). anyhow from the casing it goes to a 1"tee where my supply line to my home is located, next it goes into another 1"tee (back to back)this tee is pointing up with the pressure switch attached(we replaced the pressure switch and also added the controller for the 3 wire pump/motor.)from the end of the second tee it drops 6" to the tank. anyway bottom line is everything works but water pressure is funny..takes toilets longer to fill, washer, sinks. he did let it pump all the iron build up out or most i should say, but my question(finally) is, is the configuration of my house supply line location and pressure switch ok?he didnt put a tank fitting kit on so it basiclly runs from top of casing to tee(supply to house)
to another tee (pressure switch) then drops and deadends into the tank. so the pump pushes the water back thru the pressure switch to the supply to home then its only a few inches and its back down into the well it goes..does this configuration matter is this the reason the water pressure is lowish? im an electrician so i can assure you its not the pump or controller or switch or anything electrical. with that being said im dumb as a plum when it comes to wells.....ive tried to include everything i can remember in this but im sure i left something out..oh yeah there is no cycle stop valve or check valve above ground only the one on the motor,also the well casing is 4"...everything new except motor/pump...the whole set up looks very simple with the distance between the casing and tank being about 1 1/2' apart. was thinking i should put a tank fitting kit in and reconfigure set up....i dunno any advice is appreciated. also i understand that i got what i paid for but whats done is done.please post ur opinions!++++remembered this after i read the preview..i went up 1/2 a horse and also the configuration that i explained was very close to what was there before.well has been operational for 27 years(with crappy pressure) up to a few days ago. also the pump comes on when in normal use about every 10 minutes...as long as there isnt a bunch of open taps.it also only takes about 15 to 25 seconds for the pump to fill, if you open the hose bib it comes on almost constantly... t/y..(dont have a url for the pic.)