Does well water change over time?

Discussion in 'Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog' started by JMTFARMS, Sep 25, 2013.

  1. JMTFARMS

    JMTFARMS New Member

    Messages:
    10
    Location:
    Missouri
    We have a rental house with a deep well. Twenty + years ago we had a chem free iron filter installed because of iron in the water (tubs, sinks, and toilet staining and renter complaints). After filter was installed we had good tasting, clear, drinkable water.

    The filter supplied good water to the house, but we had a lot of trouble with the controller and the design/installation of the system. About 2 years ago the controller and piston assembly on the filter broke down and the filter could not backwash. At that time the filter was set on by-pass and the renters used the water with no complaints and very little signs of iron.

    About a year ago the house was vacated and sat empty. We used the water a few times in the last year to water cattle. Each time we used the water, it would start with a severe iron red color but clear up after running roughly 1000 gallons.

    We now have some other renters interested in the house. I removed the iron filter, hydro charger, and check valve with intentions on letting the renters try using the untreated well water. During this removal, the amount of iron deposits in the equipment, piping, and running water made me start to look into another iron filter.

    We had a water treatment company come out and test the water. We took a sample of the water directly from the well delivery pipe (before pressure tank). The water tested to have no sulpher and just a trace of iron. Company suggested just a 4x10 pre filter and to chlorinate the well periodically. They suggested I visit a local plumbing store to get what I need (I was impressed they did not try to sell me something).

    So, it appears that the raw well water is pretty good, but when we run the water through the existing pressure tank we get a lot of severe red iron water (especially when the pump is running). After running a lot of water through the system it is starting to slowly clear up, but still gets riled up when the pump runs and is not yet useable. I am sure we are just flushing deposits out of the piping and pressure tank.

    If anyone is still reading this long post here are my questions.

    1. Can the water quality from the well change over time?

    2. Is it possible the iron we are now seeing in the water is actually rust from inside the existing pressure tank and not deposits from the water.

    3. How can I flush/clean out the iron deposits in the pressure tank?

    Also the existing pressure tank is an air to water (bladderless) tank. After removing the hydro charger, the system has no air recovery system (I don't think well has bleeder valve).

    1. How long will the air in the pressure tank last before the tank waterlogs?

    2. Can I get by with adding an air input into the system to recharge air into the system ("schraeder valve") and keep the air to water style tank.

    3. Should I replace the tank with a new bladder tank?


    Sorry this post is so long and has so many questions. Your advice and opinions will be appreciated. Thanks.
  2. valveman

    valveman Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    4,464
    Location:
    Lubbock, Texas
    1. Can the water quality from the well change over time?

    Probably not.

    2. Is it possible the iron we are now seeing in the water is actually rust from inside the existing pressure tank and not deposits from the water.

    Not likely.

    3. How can I flush/clean out the iron deposits in the pressure tank?

    Take everything apart and clean it out.

    Also the existing pressure tank is an air to water (bladderless) tank. After removing the hydro charger, the system has no air recovery system (I don't think well has bleeder valve).

    1. How long will the air in the pressure tank last before the tank waterlogs?

    Never as long as you think it will. And just one day of a waterlogged tank will kill the pump.

    2. Can I get by with adding an air input into the system to recharge air into the system ("schraeder valve") and keep the air to water style tank.

    Yes if you use a compressor with a float in the tank to work automatically. Otherwise you will forget, the tank will waterlog, the pump will burn up, and you will wish you had fixed it right the first time.

    3. Should I replace the tank with a new bladder tank?

    Not if you want to keep adding air to get rid of the iron. Although you could use a bladder tank and never have to worry about waterlogging, if you use something like the Sulfur Eliiminator to get rid of the iron in the well itself.
  3. JMTFARMS

    JMTFARMS New Member

    Messages:
    10
    Location:
    Missouri
    Test said it had 0.3ppm iron in water. Was advised to drop some chlorine tabs down the well to precipitate iron, most iron will settle in well, and add a 4x10 pre-filter to catch any left. That way we would not add air to remove iron.
    Does that sound like it would work?

    Looks like a Sulfur Eliminator would do the same thing as the chlorine tabs. It would just precipitate the iron in the well so it iron could settle, right?

    Would .03 ppm iron leave all the iron deposits/residue in the system, or is it likely that the test level was incorrect?

    The water treatment co. was not concerned with the iron level in the water and recommended the 4x10 filter. It just seems to me that there is a lot of iron residue in the system for a level that is not a concern. Any comments on what level of iron would cause problems would be appreciated. Thanks.
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