DIYer questions - Flange and concrete sub floor not level...

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vlad_nada

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Greetings All, I'm remodeling my half bathroom. Concrete sub-floor is not level. Flange isn't level either. About a 1/2in drop from one side of the flange to the wall. You can see in the pics how it drops off to the right as the gap between drywall and floor increases. As for the flange, the end of the pipe is somewhat flexible(What material is this?). It was hammered back down over the new flange that was installed 11 years ago by a plumber. After researching my options, my plan is to:
1. Remove old flange. I would have to bend back up the end of the pipe material.
2. Cover/Protect end of pipe from Self Leveling Compound
3. Primer then apply SLC
4. Install tile
5. Install flange (What type of flange would work best? Extender? Compression?)
Does this plan sound OK?
Also, I tried to scrape as much of the black linoleum adhesive as I could. Its pretty smooth now. Not sticky. I can apply SLC primer over this right?
Im a DIY guy and have little experience with any of this. Any comments would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 

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Gardner

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That looks like a lead bend to me. Is it poured right into the slab so you can't access from underneath at all?
 

Reach4

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Are you planning to level the floor? Set-rite http://set-rite.com/ says you can taper one of their extenders with a belt sander.

I am even thinking that after you level the floor, you could keep the tilt and just use 2 wax rings. That existing flange looks like it is in good shape to me.

I am not a pro.
 

vlad_nada

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gardner, thanks for the info. Its def a lead bend. In this pic, you can see how its attached to the pipe. I wouldnt be able to get under it.
Reach4, I am planning on leveling the floor. The flange is on a slight angle. The last toilet installed had to be shimmed 1/2 inch to make it level.
Im not sure if i should just level around it and maybe use 2 wax rings or remove flange, level it, tile and put flange on top of tile. Any thoughts?
 

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Reach4

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I am not a plumber. I would not want to dig into the concrete and put in a new flange. So my inclination would be not to do anything that involved bending the lead again.

See time 12:05 of

A metal repair ring set atop your newly leveled floor might do the job as well.
 
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Gardner

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It looks like 3 tap-con screws holding down the brass ring.

This is a totally amateur opinion: I would say that you could loosen up the tap-con screws, and carefully bend back the lead enough to free up the brass ring. Then shim the brass ring up to be level, or closer to level, and fill the area with your leveling compound. Once the SLC is set, tighten up the tap-con screws again and carefully pean over the lead back onto the brass ring.

If something went wrong with this general approach -- eg the end of the lead pipe that you're working on breaks off -- there are closet flange adapters that would fit down inside the lead pipe with rubber seals around the outside that seal against the lead pipe.

Something similar to this:

https://www.plumbingsupply.com/images/push-tite-closet-flange-for-cast-iron-white.jpg
 

vlad_nada

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Thanks for the replies everyone. I decided to remove the flange because I've heard more often then not that the flange should be installed on top of the tile. To remove it I first had to bend up the lend bend. I realize now I probably could have probably left it in place, leveled concrete around it, installed tile and installed the set rite flange over it but its too late now. As I see it now, I have two options:

1. Level the concrete and bend the lead back down against the new concrete, tile around it and install the closet flange with rubber seals on the tile.(I tried the flange and it fits nicely). If lend bend was somehow in the way of the flange screws I could probably cut it away.

2. Just cut away the lend bend now, dam around it, level concrete, install tile then flange. You can drill screws into the SLC right??

I'm thinking I should just get rid of lead bend now so its not in the way of anything else. I'm a DIYer and I just wanted some opinions before I went through with this. Thanks again!
 

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Reach4

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I suggest that you do not put in an all plastic flange. You want the part that engages the closet bolts to be metal.

You can drill screws through SLC into concrete. I don't have an opinion of the rest of your proposed method.
 
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vlad_nada

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Reach4, Would it be better if I put a metal repair ring on top of the abs closet flange? I dont see any with metal rings and those gaskets.
 

Reach4

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Check pushtite 887-GPM if 4 inch ID is what you are looking for. 888-GPM would be for 3-inch ID.
887-GPM.jpg
 
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