DIY sink drain installation problem

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mrkita

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I just moved and am trying to hook up my new ikea kitchen, cut the countertop and am ready to hookup the sink with one problem I realized too late.

I will do my best to describe the situation as I have limited internet access.

The water intakes and waste water outflow are in the wall about 35cm up from the floor. They are on the far left hand side of the wall in the corner directly next to an outer wall.

Directly to their right is a water boiler sticking out of the wall that heats for the whole apt. Its about 30cm wide, 50cm high, 15cm deep, and starts about 10cm from the floor.

Because we didnt want a small sink crammed in the corner we bought everything so that we could place the sink to the right of the boiler more or less in the middle of the room. This was also because we bought a porcelin sink from ikea that needs to rest on countertop on both sides. So we bought a small cabinet that sits to the right of the boiler, then the sink cabinet to the right of that, and then another cabinet to the right of that. In front of the wall plumbing hookups/boiler we have a dishwasher. This puts the sink about 1.5m from the wall hookups with the boiler and small cabinet in between.

This puts me in the unfortunate situation I only realized too late... that neither the small ikea cabinet nor the boiler have room behind them ,so the plumbing lines and waste line have to go to the floor, under both... and back up the 35cm to the attachments in the wall.

How big of a problem is that?? I know the rule is waste water doesnt go up hill... how screwed am I? What sort of piping can I use to mitigate this?? Should I go with straight pvc along the floor and then a right angle up? Should I try to create a less steep grade with flexible piping starting once I get past the boiler?

My only other option is to start cutting holes in the cabinet and run the waste water line through them... If I do that I could either run a line directly under the boiler making the uphill height difference 12cm or make it flat. However if I go for the later it would involve an extra two right angles to go over the front of the boiler and some ugly spacing areangements for the dishwasher I would really prefer to avoid.

Help!!! And thanks :)
 
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Terry

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You will need to cut into the wall where the kitchen plumbing is, and reroute it to the new location.
For venting, you will want an AAV to prevent the p-trap from siphoning. Bends on the horizontal and going from horizontal to vertical need to be long sweeps.

When you cut the santee in lower in the wall, you will need to piece together and maintian whatever is there. Until you open that wall, you won't know if the piping goes down toward the floor at that point, or arms over from the side. If it arms over, then more wall will need to be removed until you find a low section to use.
 

hj

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You are screwed and maybe need a plumber who knows what he is doing to correct your problem. IKEA has NOTHING to do with this, it is NOT a sink problem, it is a piping problem unique to YOUR home.
 

mrkita

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Oh I am well aware this has nothing to do with Ikea... just my problem. ;)

The bigger problem is I live in Europe at the moment, so the walls are... you guessed it, concrete!!!!

Ugh, so cant move the pipes without spending a fortune.

I bought pvc yesterday so I can directly horizontally go from sink to outlet in the wall, but it will have to snake horizonatly around the front of the boiler. I will have to cut through the ikea cabinets to do it, buts in the back behind the drawers.

Its ugly but is it reasonable? No uphill grade, just a couple of horizontal bends?
 

mrkita

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Ok, well my plan was flexible tube from the ikea wierd p-trap thing, directly into a pvc pipe running into the back of the cabinet (40cm wide), then on the other side into a double bend (two right angle connectors), exiting in front of the boiler, then another 40cm straight pipe to the final bend back into the waste pipe in the wall. Everything horizontal past the flexible ikea section until the wall where it drops vertically.

Does that make sense?
 

Terry

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Forgive the ignorance, but what is a siphon in this context?

Anytime you connect a basin to a sewer system, you open yourself up to whatever sewer gases there are there.
It's typically methane gas the a septic tank or community sewer has in it. Imagine watching a dog poop, and then going over and putting your nose right over it. They imagine waiting for that poop to rot and ferment, and then smelling it.

To prevent allowing those vapors into our homes, we install a means of blocking that passage of petrude air into hour homes. We do that with a water seal. Without the "seal" we might as well have open ditches in the street that people poo and pee in. Oh wait, that would be India.

india_1487.jpg


On open ditch to pee and poop in.

A p-trap will hold water to hold a seal only if it can be kept from siphoning. A siphon is easy to create. Pouring water into the basin will start the siphon. What prevents a siphon is an air break. If you have ever tried to siphon water from a swimming pool, or gas from a car, then you know that even a little bit of air in the incoming end to break the siphon, and you need to start over. Plumbing systems are installed to have the little air break. This way we can pour water into a basin, maintain the seal of water in the trap, and still have the majority of the water drain away.

dwv_b2.jpg


Notice that the tubs and the lavs have pipes above the trap arm. That pipe is a "vent".
The vent goes up through the roof, allowing watever gas that is in the pipes to vent away into the air high above the home.

The toilets work on a siphon, so they are made with a fill valve that puts water back into the bowl to create the water seal.

dwv_traps.jpg
 
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JohnfrWhipple

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.....This puts me in the unfortunate situation I only realized too late... that neither the small ikea cabinet nor the boiler have room behind them ,so the plumbing lines and waste line have to go to the floor, under both... and back up the 35cm to the attachments in the wall......

You can not drop the water lines and then bring them back up 35 cm. This will create a much too large PTrap and you will get junk building up in the bottom.

If you can't go behind then go right through the cabinets. Drill your holes so the waste pipe flows down to the exit point. 1.5 meters is roughly 5'. I would run a 2" line and make sure I had strainer of the sink to prevent food bits.

I would avoid a segmented pipe and go for a rigid one or smooth one at the least.

We used a Radiator Hose on a yacht shower build a couple years back with good success. We where able to make the PTrap from the same hose.
 
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