Distance from Toilet to Vanity - Front to Front

Discussion in 'Toilet Forum discussions' started by JXD355, Sep 27, 2010.

  1. JXD355

    JXD355 New Member

    Messages:
    6
    Location:
    Richmond, VA
    I wanted to receive some opinions from those on the forum regarding a comfortable distance from the front of a toilet to the front of a vanity (is code 15"?). The area is ~ 72" in width. The sink is 18" deep and an elongated toilet is going to be ~ 32" long (14 inch rough-in), which leaves only 22" between the front of the sink and the front of the toilet. I am about to purchase the toilet, but I am struggling a bit with the small distance. I ideally would like to find a 14" rough in that is a compact elongated, but I can't seem to locate any.

    First off - Is 22" too little space for day in and day out use. (this is the primary bathroom).
    Second - If I wanted more space I could go with a round toilet (Which I would rather not) or a compact elongated 14 inch rough in. Anyone know where to locate one?
    Third - The previous toilet was actually a 12" rough-in, which didn't look the best, but the average person doesn't notice the extra 2" behind the toilet...IMO. Any thoughts on going back with a 12"?

    Thanks!
  2. Gary Swart

    Gary Swart In the Trades

    Messages:
    7,350
    Location:
    Yakima WA
    Toto makes several toilets that use their Unifit adapter and would place the toilet tank near the wall. These cost a bit more than some of the other Totos, but all Totos perform very well. You can find these toilets described on the Shopping link on the home page of this forum.
  3. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,647
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    Since the average 14" toilet is just a 12" bowl with a tank that is 2" thicker at the rear, going back with a 12" would accomplish nothing. 14" toilets are NOT something you would find in a "compact" model. You should be able to live with the 22" dimension.
  4. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,010
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    [​IMG]
    James demonstrating in an old Seattle home that has a 14" rough-in.
    The toilet on the left is a Toto Soiree with 14" Unift, the toilet on the right, is a Cadet 3 elongated bowl.
    Both bowls are elongated, but you can see how much leg room is gained by James on the Toto. Several inches!
    It's also much easier to use when standing up. His butt doesn't hit the pedestal anymore.
    Same bathroom, different bowls.
    We sell a lot of the Toto bowls with 14" Unifit adapters in Seattle. It just makes sense to pull the bowl close to the wall, and have more leg room in the bathroom.
    The style fits the old Seattle homes better too.
  5. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    22,019
    Location:
    New England
    Code wants 15" centerline to wall or other obstruction on either side, and (I thought) 24" in front of the toilet. Depending on how fussy the inspector is, he may not approve a toilet that sat 22" from an obstruction (the vanity).
  6. nukeman

    nukeman Nuclear Engineer

    Messages:
    711
    Location:
    VA
    Here in VA, it is 15" from centerline to each side and 21" in the front (I know some states/areas use 24").

    See Section P2705 of the VA Residential Code: https://www2.iccsafe.org/states/Virginia/Residential/Res-Frameset.html

    Since you have a 14" rough-in, you are best going with a Toto (that takes a unifit) with the 14" unifit. That will push the toilet back a good 2". This way, you can have an elongated bowl, but will take less space than a round bowl that is made for a 12" rough (or most other toilets that claim to be for a 14" rough).

    Moving the toilet back 2" or so doesn't sound like much, but it makes a huge difference when working with a tight space.
  7. Ian Gills

    Ian Gills Senior Robin Hood Guy

    Messages:
    2,777
    Location:
    USA
    I like the look of that Cadet 3. It's just a shame Jamie didn't sit a little further back on it. He'll fall of it if he slides any further forward.
  8. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,010
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    Ian, here is a different view, of a 14" rough with 14" Unifit, you pick up quite a bit of space over the elongated Cadet 3
    I sell a lot of Toto toilets in older homes built in the 20's with 14" rough.
    The Cadet 3 takes up a lot of room in a bathroom.
    The TOTO is more compact, and you can pull it back 2"

    TOTO on the left, Cadet on the right. And the Toto is higher quality then the Cadet.

    [​IMG]
    Last edited: Sep 28, 2010
  9. JXD355

    JXD355 New Member

    Messages:
    6
    Location:
    Richmond, VA
    Thanks everyone for all of the good feedback.

    The Toto Unifit at first glance seemed to be a good solution but I have a few concerns:

    1) My supply line is 5 5/8" from the centerline of the closet flange to center of the supply pipe (coming out of floor not wall) and only ~ 5.25" from edge of the supply line to the center of the 4" closet flange. Will that work for any of the Toto's...I believe the only options might be the Soiree and Guinevere are the only options...

    2) I wasn't planning on spending $700-800 on a toilet, w/ unifit.

    3) I have a hard porcelain tile and I know this is going to be a pain to drill the holes for the unifit. I took me a bit and 25 minutes for each hole in the tile for the radiator piping. Are there only 4 holes to drill? Tile cracking is always a concern here.

    As always, there is never an obvious solution. Any additional insight would be helpful.

    Thanks for the heads up on the code in VA.
  10. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    22,019
    Location:
    New England
    A diamond core bit and the holes aren't a problem. The prices on Toto's website are suggested list, and few places sell them for that. Not sure about the supply line...
  11. asktom

    asktom Member

    Messages:
    559
    Location:
    Victor, MT

    FLAG ON THE FIELD

    Encroachment. Number2, defense. 5 yard penalty. replay of down.
  12. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,010
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    If you don't mind installing the 12" bowl, then don't worry about trying to pull a bowl back 2"
    A 12" bowl will install on a 14" rough, it is out those extra 2", but it works.

    For every homeowner that wants to pull the bowl back, there are just as many that are very happy with the bowl farther out into the room and having spent less.

    Toto Aquia CST416M elongated is 27-1/4" long.
    Toto Drake CST744E elongated is 28" long

    Most of these are 28" long and set off from the wall 3/4"
    So on a standard 12" rough, the end of the bowl would be 28-3/4"
    If you have a 14" rough, you can switch for a 14" Unifit and keep the distance to 28-3/4"
    The 14" Unifit needs to be ordered in addition to the toilet.
    They come with the standard 12" Unifit, which winds up being an extra part.
    And no. I don't need anymore 12" Unifit adapters.

    So to explain how this works on a 14" rough:
    Cadet 3 14" rough "round bowl" is 30-1/4" from the wall.
    Cadet 3 14" rough "elongated bowl" is 32-1/4" from the wall.
    Toto Aquia CST416M elongated is 27-1/4" long making it 29-3/4" from the wall.
    Any of the Toto toilets above will be about 28-3/4" from the wall with the elongated bowl. Shorter then most other round bowls, and much shorter then the other elongated bowls.


    [​IMG]
    Last edited: Sep 29, 2010
  13. JXD355

    JXD355 New Member

    Messages:
    6
    Location:
    Richmond, VA
    Thanks Terry.

    I called Toto today and it doesnt sound as if they have a toilet that can accommodate a supply line 5.5" to the left of the center of the closet flange when the supply line is coming out of the floor. All of the skirts are wider than that. It may be ok from the wall, but sounds as if the line is coming out of the floor then it is no good.

    So I suppose I am down to a few 14" rough in options or a 12" option, but will mostly be stuck with 22" of space between the vanity and toilet.

    Anyone have another thought?
  14. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    22,019
    Location:
    New England
    What's under this floor? Is it on a slab, or is there a basement or a finished ceiling underneath? Drilling a hole in the tile to move the supply line may not be all that hard if you have access from below. Cutting a small hole in drywall is fairly easy to patch. It's only a major issue if it's on a slab or say wall-hung cabinets below (well, I could think of other issues, but...). The existing hole would be covered, so no need to patch (you could plug it, though). A diamond core bit and about 5-minutes, and you'd have a new hole where you want it.
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