delta shower rough valve installation

Discussion in 'Shower & Bathtub Forum & Blog' started by ratherbefishing, Feb 4, 2012.

  1. ratherbefishing

    ratherbefishing New Member

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    atlanta
    I hate to ask such a basic question, but....

    I'm about to install my new Delta R1000 rough valve. What size wood do you guys use for the stringer? By my arithmetic, it looks like it should be about 1.5 inches from the back of the studs. Shower framing is 2x4s, 1/2" permabase, Kerdi, 1/4" thick tiles. Does my math sound right?

    I know the second one of these I install will be a piece of cake. But this is the first.

    Thanx!
  2. Hackney plumbing

    Hackney plumbing Homeowner

    Messages:
    1,174
    Location:
    Alabama
    The valve should have a rough in guide. Its black plastic and snaps onto the brass body. The finished wall should be flush with the guides front edge. I use a 2x4 or a 2x6.

    Remember to orientate the valve correctly...it has and up and down.
  3. dlarrivee

    dlarrivee New Member

    Messages:
    1,172
    Location:
    Canada
    I guess you lost the instruction sheet already?
  4. ratherbefishing

    ratherbefishing New Member

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    atlanta
    I have the instructions. After I found some stonger glasses to read the tiny print, they still seemed kinda cryptic to a first timer. Online is easier; larger print! But harder to carry to the jobsite. Then I guess I had a late night brain fart. 1.5 inches from the back of the studs = 2x4. That makes sense, Delta. And it worked out even better. The "similar threads" at the bottom of the page answered my next question about soldering into the threaded inlet and outlet.

    Thanx!
  5. LLigetfa

    LLigetfa DIYer, not in the trades

    Messages:
    4,066
    Location:
    NW Ontario, Canada
    Does Delta make a 1000 series? I know they make a 10000 series cuz I have one. I know you can also download the instructions from the internet cuz I did just that. It spec's 70mm from the front of the plaster guard.
  6. LLigetfa

    LLigetfa DIYer, not in the trades

    Messages:
    4,066
    Location:
    NW Ontario, Canada
    Ja, but you can zoom it and print it. DSP-B-T17038_Rev_A_df49.jpg
  7. Hackney plumbing

    Hackney plumbing Homeowner

    Messages:
    1,174
    Location:
    Alabama
    1.5" from the back of the studs doesn't mean anything. The valve should have came with a plastic rough in guide. You set the valve in the wall with the front edge of the black plastic guide so that it will be flush with the finished wall.

    Its really that simple.
  8. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    22,154
    Location:
    New England
    All of these valves have a min/max on the rough-in. If it is installed with the finished wall between min/max or the rough-in plaster guard device, the trim will fit BUT, if you are at one end or the other, you MAY NOT LIKE IT! So, temporarily, put it together with the trim to see how much of the shaft/handle you want sticking out, then measure, and mount the valve there. There are LOTS of people here that have posted complaining about how it looks (not how it functions) because they didn't mock it up first. To the manufactuer, if it fits, it's right. To the consumer, they usually, don't like it at either extreme. The engineer's version of min/max may not meet the fashion design sense of the user. CHECK IT FIRST!
  9. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,843
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    quote; It spec's 70mm from the front of the plaster guard.

    We do not use metric in the USA. But if we did 7 cm would be easier to read on the ruler. When installing any recessed valve, you measure from the "face" of the finished wall back, because that is the only "positive" measurement you have.
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2012
  10. patma

    patma New Member

    Messages:
    23
    Location:
    Kentucky
    W/ delta, better to be too deep or too shallow (if you gonna mess up). I've installed extension kits when valve too deep or tile changed at last minute but have never had to correct one too shallow. I guess the only solution would be to reset the whole body?

    Delta give you 1/16 or so to play w/ on the normal trim kits? tia
  11. loudgonzo

    loudgonzo New Member

    Messages:
    25
    Location:
    Wylie, Tx
    I'm installing the R10000, and after mocking it up, the handle sticks out too far, so we would need to install it about a 1/4" -3/8" deeper into the wall. However now the problem is that using a 2x4 as the stringer, the stringer won't be flush between the studs, it would also need to be pushed further back.

    Is there any problem using a thinner hardwood as the stringer, allowing it to remain flush with the studs. I was thinking something like 1x3 oak, which is still rigid/hard enough to mount the valve too.

    thanks,
  12. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,843
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    1 x 3 PINE would be adequate. You are not going to be hitting it with a sledge hammer. In fact, once the trim plate is attached and tightened up, the backing may be incidental anyway.
  13. johnfrwhipple

    johnfrwhipple Bathroom Design & Build - North Vancouver, B.C.

    Messages:
    4,449
    Location:
    North Vancouver, BC
    Backing for plumbing fixtures - 3/4" plywood

    post(s) deleted by John Whipple
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2014
  14. loudgonzo

    loudgonzo New Member

    Messages:
    25
    Location:
    Wylie, Tx
    Since the depth will be greater by about 1/4" outside the max specified depth, does this affect the operation? What happens if the valve is too deep?
  15. johnfrwhipple

    johnfrwhipple Bathroom Design & Build - North Vancouver, B.C.

    Messages:
    4,449
    Location:
    North Vancouver, BC
    post(s) deleted by John Whipple
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2014
  16. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    22,154
    Location:
    New England
    The min/max on the instructions just guarantees that any of the compatible trim will fit, not how well it looks. As long as you can get enough of the trim screws into the body and hold things on properly, and can get your hand on the handle without pinching or things rubbing, it will work. Someone with arthritis might like it further from the wall since it may be easier to grab and turn. Another thing with that rough-in valve...since it is used with lots of their trim, if it isn't within their min/max, should you decide to change the trim later on, it may not fit if you wanted a different finish or style later on...you'd have to move the valve, which could be problematic.
  17. loudgonzo

    loudgonzo New Member

    Messages:
    25
    Location:
    Wylie, Tx
    here's a visual reference, ended up about 3/4" shorter by using a 1x4 instead of 2x4.

    thanks
    leo

    1.jpg 2.jpg
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