Delta Rough-In Valve for shower-only install

Discussion in 'Shower & Bathtub Forum & Blog' started by tgice, Oct 21, 2013.

  1. tgice

    tgice New Member

    Messages:
    3
    Location:
    Illinois
    Hi guys, I'm completing the rough in for a tile shower in a major master bath reno.

    I just bought my Delta trim kit and accompanying rough-in valve online after reading some FAQs answered at the site about which valves were appropriate with that trim. They offered two options:

    R10000-UNBX

    and the equivalent that just has the extra shutoffs on the valve. I figured I didn't need those so I went with the above one.

    When it arrived I realized (probably could have from the photo or description, I guess) that it's actually setup with a tub diverter threaded port on the bottom. I don't need this b/c there will be no tub spout of course.

    Since then, I've realized I probably should've bought this R10000-UNWSHF, which has that port blocked for you.

    Interestingly, it seems that that model actually cost $10+ more than the one I bought.

    My question is, can I use the existing one and just screw (or sweat, etc.) a plug into it and be completely comfortable with that? Or should I go to the expense and trouble to return this one and get the UNWSHF one?

    I'm assuming yes, but thought I'd check in with you guys. I'm surprised that with all of the plumbing projects I've been tackling lately I haven't actually posted here yet.

    I'm pretty sure I've read a lot here though.

    Thanks.
  2. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,130
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    It's quicker to just plug it.
    You can use a threaded brass plug, or make up a male adapter and cap.
  3. tgice

    tgice New Member

    Messages:
    3
    Location:
    Illinois
    Thanks Terry, I'll go that route!
  4. tgice

    tgice New Member

    Messages:
    3
    Location:
    Illinois
    How to connect PEX

    As a follow up to the above, I'm considering how best to attach the 3/4" PEX I've got running up from the bottom of the stud bay that will contain blocking to mount the valve body.

    I've noticed that valve bodies seem to always end up with 1/2" connections to the body itself, though often the supply coming right before that is actually 3/4"; I suppose this helps ensure that the 1/2" supply is always full capacity even if other fixtures are taking some volume from that 3/4".

    So I had a couple of questions about the details here: should I consider installing hammer arresters near the valve, something like one of these?

    http://www.siouxchief.com/products/supply/arresters-and-trap-primers/arresters/minirester

    I've heard that the old air chamber solutions are now frowned upon due to possible sanitary reasons and also that the air just gets absorbed eventually anyway ... so just wondering what good advice is on whether to bother with arresters on a new valve rough in these days.

    Also, I discovered this product as an alternative to coming right into the valve body with one of those sweat-to-PEX-barb fittings:

    http://www.siouxchief.com/products/...07-and-2159/pfc/tub-shower-pressure-connector

    Any opinion on these? The one thing that concerns me is that on the barb side, the ID is just under 3/8"! My 3/4" PEX ID is about 5/8" and my 1/2" PEX (only used to get to my sinks and toilet at the moment) ID is about 1/2".

    I was thinking if this would be a concern, maybe I should build a small section of copper that ends in 1/2" copper sweated right to the valve, but then build it up to 3/4" copper, and sweat a 3/4" PEX barb in there and connect directly to my 3/4" PEX, using one of these:

    http://www.nibco.com/PEX/PEX-Fittings/PEX-Metal-Fittings/NP23-Adapter-DZR-Brass-PEX-x-Sweat/

    So does that last plan sound like a better idea than using that pre-made copper bend that ends in a 1/2" PEX barb (and then I'd have to use a 3/4 -> 1/2" PEX coupling, and a short section of 1/2" PEX I guess to connect to that, which is a little goofy, it seems to me).

    Also, this is a shower-only install (no tub spout), so the only other part of the rough in I guess is to run up from the valve body to the shower outlet, for which I'll use a drop ear elbow -- I assume the only right way to do that is with a run of 1/2" copper, right?

    Also, would you guys recommend Type L or M for all of this copper around the valve body?

    Sorry for the series of questions, but I figure one of you could crank out succinct answers quickly.

    Thanks for your help!
  5. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,130
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    A Delta shower valve does not need hammer arrestors. If you do chose to install them, then any of the Sioux Chief's will do.
    Pipes with caps will also work, for a short while until they water log. Inspectors don't count them as hammer arrestors though because of that.
    Inspectors also don't require hammer arrestors for tub or shower valves.

    They do on washers, dshwasher and icemakers on systems that are closed.
    When I install a new icemaker line, I always install one with a hammer arrestor. Regardless!

    The pipe going to the tub spout needs to be full size.
    You don't have one, so plugging that is fine.

    The pipe going to the shower head can be PEX with drop ear. It's only a 2.5 GPF head anyway.
    I nomally run copper there anyway. If give me something solid to secure the valve with. I make sure I have enough solid copper from the valve that I get my blocking in.
    Running 3/4" into 1/2" if fine. Just pick a joint to reduce it on. The valve has small holes anyway, much smaller than the 1/2" inputs.
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