Delta MultiChoice Rough In Valve

Users who are viewing this thread

Mike2007

New Member
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
San Francisco
Hi, at Lowe's, I bought a delta multichoice universal rough in valve (model R10000) that comes with delta faucets. Does anyone have any experience with soldering these types of valves? The valve looks like its brass, but maybe its not. It has male threads on it, but 1/2" copper can fit snuggly inside the opening. The instructions are rather unclear. They simply say that 1/2" copper can be used and "use the proper fittings for your plumbing type." Views on their website turn up no information and I was stuck on hold on their help line. I'd rather use a soldered joint at the valve rather than a threaded connection, but I can't seem to find a solder-type valve.

Any information would be helpful.

Thanks

Mike

delta_multichoice.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Mike2007

New Member
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
San Francisco
I also need to find an 8" two handle tub valve that has solder connections rather than unions. Does anyone know where I can find these valves? I'm not having much luck online. I"m looking for one of these, but with solderable connections rather than the unions.

Thanks.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Prashster

New Member
Messages
936
Reaction score
4
Points
0
I used the multichoice rough in valve. I agree the instructions were cryptic. I soldered the connection fine. My 1/2" copper slid nice and snug into the fitting - which is brass. It soldered up fine. 6 months later - no leaks.

Remove the center cartridge b4 soldering though.
 

hj

Master Plumber
Messages
33,599
Reaction score
1,037
Points
113
Location
Cave Creek, Arizona
Website
www.terrylove.com
valves

The Delta valve is designed so you can solder the copper into the ports. Every manufacturer makes solder type two valve faucets, but they do not have unions and HD or Lowes does not carry them. You have to get them from a plumber, or plumbing wholesaler.
 

Jimbo

Plumber
Messages
8,918
Reaction score
18
Points
0
Location
San Diego, CA
Also note that the R10000 comes with flush plugs, which must be removed after testing, before installing the cartridge.

I guess you already know that one of the good things about this system is that you have the choice of 3 types of trim....1300,1700, or 17T.
 

Mike2007

New Member
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
San Francisco
Thanks for all of your replies.

I took your advise and called a few plumbing supply places today to see if they had two handle shower/tub valves with sweat joints (like the picture above, but not with threaded unions). None of them carried the valve I was looking for and they said it would be very hard to come by because it was the "old" style. Needless to say I was a bit suprised. With that said, does anyone know of an online plumming supply that carries two handled vales with solder joints?

Anyone have suggestions on how I could retrofit the shower to accomidate a newer style shower valve. I'd like to avoid ripping out tile, as its no needed.

Thanks a bunch.

Mike
 

Jadnashua

Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
Messages
32,771
Reaction score
1,191
Points
113
Location
New England
For safety and resale, a tub/shower valve should be either a pressure balance or temperature controlled valve. All new valves for that application are one or the other or both. That is why it is hard to find. I think that I've seen one where the volume control is one valve and the temperature control is the other. These could be plumbed to fit any separation and would make it meet current codes. Depending on where you live, you may be required to comply with the new codes when replacing, but if you repair what you have, you can leave it as is.
 

Mike2007

New Member
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
San Francisco
I just want to be clear. On the multichoice, I can solder the copper pipe directly to the valve. That is the copper pipe fits within the male threaded connections and is then soldered.

Its been my understanding that brass should not be soldered. Since the valve is brass, are there any special soldering procedures or tips that I should consider (less heat, different solder, etc.)?

Thanks.

Mike
 

Jadnashua

Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
Messages
32,771
Reaction score
1,191
Points
113
Location
New England
Soldering brass is fine. Because it is more massive than a copper fitting, you'll have to heat it more. Take the cartridge out before you solder it. You still have to clean it and put on flux first, though.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks