Delta Monitor 1700 (1768) "Graves" tub/shwr valve

Discussion in 'Shower & Bathtub Forum & Blog' started by holybuzz, Jan 12, 2007.

  1. holybuzz

    holybuzz New Member

    Messages:
    29
    Hello,

    Others have said it before, but thanks to all the experts (and to the DIYers with busted knuckles) for posting on this site. Without it, looking under "P" in the phone book would be our only course of action.

    I just bought a Delta (as far as I can see, the preferred brand on the site) 1768 "Michael Graves" tub/shower valve and trim set. I got it on, ahem, eb*y (fingers are crossed) for pretty cheap, but everything appears to be there.

    I'm doing a full BR re-do, so I have access to both the front and back of the plumbing. I haven't yet put up the vapor barrier/hardibacker/thinset/tile. Right now the distance from the stud (tub wall) to the center of supply line is 2.5 inches. (PIC) The tile install will add about another inch to that for a total of 3.5 inches. The distance from the front of the valve's mounting plate (which has to be flush with the finished wall) to the the center of the valve connections is about 1.25 inches.

    My question: Should I re-route the supply lines (elbows?) or would it be easier (and just as secure) to use an extension kit, if one exists? Or do I need either? I read the following in the install directions:

    "For walls over 1 1/2" thick, longer 10-24 escutcheon screws are required."

    Maybe there's something I'm missing? Maybe the distance I have (again, approx. 3.5 inches) is within tolerances for this set?

    Also, if what you see in the pic raises any flags, please fire away. Yes, that is galvanized on the lower right (hot) supply. It's galvanized into copper, then lots of joins, none of which was my doing. (NOTE: the paper towel tucked under the overflow is my way of checking for leaks. I just installed it and I'm monitoring it daily. OK, ten times daily.)

    Thanks
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2007
  2. jimbo

    jimbo Plumber

    Messages:
    8,997
    Location:
    San Diego
    Extensions are less than ideal, but if Delta makes one for your valve, it would probably work OK. But it may limit your present or future choices of trim. I would try to get the plaster ground (the plastic piece which I hope is still with your auction purchase) set to match your final wall finish.
  3. holybuzz

    holybuzz New Member

    Messages:
    29
    Plasterguard?

    Jimbo,

    If you're talking about the plasterguard (the gray plastic tophat-shaped thingy that protects the sleeve), it's there. Like I said, everything appears to be there.

    So you're saying that I should go ahead and re-do the lines, right? If so, can you take another look at the pic (original post) and suggest a plan of action. There are plenty of joins (don't know why) between the shutoff and the point where the lines mix, and the spout has a galvanized elbow and arm. What would be the best way to streamline this, assuming that the fewer the pieces, joins etc. the better? Also, I could probably remove the galvanized section on the hot line (lower right of photo) and start the copper at the floor. A good idea? Wouldn't all copper be better than a mixture of copper and galv?

    The assembly looks so slapped together (maybe it isn't; I'm no expert) that I'd like to do it right instead of just doing it.

    Thanks.

    Keith
  4. looks ok but

    I I had to tackle that one and you are planning
    on tearing out the drywall anyway,

    i would probably raise the whole mess about a 18 inches
    higher in the tub...


    I hate it when the tub spout is literally almost touching the
    lip of the bathtub.....

    cant lean over and just wash your head if you were so inclined
    to do , on a hot day....


    I like the valve to be about 24 inches high and the spout to be
    about a foot off the tub.....


    if you can do that and cut that whole mess out of there
    and want to go to the trouble then you will be giving your
    faucet plenty of "play" and then you can leave it loose in the wall..

    then all you got to do after you tiel the whole mess is
    simply put a wedje between the new concrete walllboard and the faucet pipes and simply tighteen it down....

    its no big deal if it is loos in the wall....jsut a piece of 1/2 or 3/4 copper wedjed across the two water lines works greatto hold that faucet in place forever....


    Delta gives you plenty of room, and only occasionally have I had to
    go out and buy some extra long trim screws at the hardware store an inch longer to reach the valve body....


    very simple...very easy...
  5. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    27,258
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    valve

    There is a lot of adjustment with the trim tube that the plate slips over, but if the valve is too deep in the wall, the plate will be near the front of the tube, so the supplied screws would be too short. Either mount it so the face of the plaster ground is flush with the new wall, or bring the valve as far forward as possible so you do not wind up with it too far back and cannot get the handle on afterwards. There may be an extension kit for it, but I have never seen one, but that may be because I haven't needed one.
  6. holybuzz

    holybuzz New Member

    Messages:
    29
    Thanks

    Mark,

    Thanks for the help. :) I'm going to go the way you suggest. Rip it all out, raise the spout and faucet. I assumed that a wedge and longer screws would do, but I wanted to hear from someone who'd actually worked with one of these before. The longer screws—the ones recommended by Delta—are 3.75". Since the distance I'm working with is 3.5" (a little less, actually) from plaster guard to supply line center, I should be OK.

    BTW, I'd hadn't thought about the utility of having a higher spout (washing hair, filling receptacles, etc.). Good point. And the diverter will be at a ergonomically smarter height.

    Too bad that I've already installed the tub. I went with a run-of-the-mill plastic unit because I wasn't going to touch the supply plumbing and a deep soaker wouldn't have fit. I've also installed a glass block window at the other end of the tub (it separates tub and vanity), and removing the tub (set in thinset) and installing another might shake things a little. And I'm in a hurry to get this whole thing put to bed.

    Anyway, thanks again for the pointers. This forum continues to save me money and headaches.

    Keith
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