Delta monitor 17 series tub spout won't screw in adapter

Discussion in 'Shower & Bathtub Forum & Blog' started by yukonerci, Oct 13, 2011.

  1. yukonerci

    yukonerci New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Location:
    Yukon, Canada
    Hi. Been scratching my head for a while trying to figure this out: I soldered the adapter that came with the spout onto the 1/2 copper pipe. The end with the o-ring in front, and the threaded end 1 1/4" away from the shower wall. EXACTLY like specified in the instructions.... (actual allowance is 1/2" to 1 1/4" max) Now just screw in the spout by hand until flush with shower wall. Problem is that it won't screw. I get a quarter turn on it and it stops there. Trying to go further either damages the plastic treads inside the spout or breaks the assembly all together! I know: I tried. Even called Delta and the tech told me it shouldn't be a problem, and shipped me 2 new spouts. But unfortunately, I still got the same problem with these too! Somebody had the same problem? Please help!!!!!!:confused:
  2. BobL43

    BobL43 DIY Senior Member

    Messages:
    1,794
    Location:
    Long Island, NY
    sounds like maybe your solder ran to an area where it interferes with the O-ring area and/or the threads. is the copper tube cut off flush at the outside end of the adapter? I'm no pro plumber, but I've installed several of these Delta tub spout setups. Got to be careful with it, but its not like heart surgery either. careful. look closely at the solder to see if some went where it should not be
  3. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    27,032
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    You apparently have a problem with the adapter, either because of improper installation or manfacturing defect. Remove it an install one of the new ones which came with the replacement spouts.
  4. BobL43

    BobL43 DIY Senior Member

    Messages:
    1,794
    Location:
    Long Island, NY
    He said he did solder on the adapter that came with the spout.
  5. BobL43

    BobL43 DIY Senior Member

    Messages:
    1,794
    Location:
    Long Island, NY
    how about posting a photo here of the adapter on the copper pipe?
  6. yukonerci

    yukonerci New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Location:
    Yukon, Canada
    hey guys thanks for replying! I did check the solder and it seems very clean (see pics) the copper pipe do stick out of the adapter though, about 3/4". Is that a problem? We left it there because there is lots of space in the spout itself for it, and the diameter of the spout is bigger than 1/2"....
    Like I said, even the new adapter don't work. The only way I can get the adapter to screw in all the way in the spout is if I screw it with the threads first, with the o-ring part sticking out.... works awesome this way but obviously won't work.... DSCF0025.jpg DSCF0027.jpg DSCF0028.jpg DSCF0029.jpg
  7. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    27,032
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    I usually install it closer to the wall, if for no other reason than it does not take so long to screw it on all the way, and I cut the copper off after soldering it on. On the surface, I cannot see any reason why it should not work, especially since it does screw on backwards. Move it back and cut off the tubing and it should work.
  8. BobL43

    BobL43 DIY Senior Member

    Messages:
    1,794
    Location:
    Long Island, NY
    When I did mine, I carefully cut off the extra copper flush to the adapter as per the istructions (as I remember). Are you sure the copper tubing end is not hitting the spout anywhere inside it? I would trim off the excess copper just for giggles and see if it makes a difference.

    Are you saying that a loose (not installed adapter) won't go in a spout either? You'll need to remove the O ring I guess so its friction will not interfere with your test. I am pretty sure you you should be able to screw it in by hand if there is no O ring on the adapter.
  9. LLigetfa

    LLigetfa DIYer, not in the trades

    Messages:
    4,138
    Location:
    NW Ontario, Canada
    Ja, what Bob said. The instructions call for the excess to be cut off. I would do a test fit without the O-ring.
  10. yukonerci

    yukonerci New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Location:
    Yukon, Canada
    Well my plumber friend did the soldering and we were concerned about doing it to close to the shower wall----and burn it. That is why we went as far as possible (1 1/4"). But hey, I tried to screw it on without the o-ring, and it went, even with the excess copper still on! So is it as simple as this? Smear the o-ring with dish soap and try it again? Thought we tried that when we started to install it but it didn't make a difference... I'll try again. Any specific product I should use for lube?
  11. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    27,032
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    You solder it on at the FRONT end, not the side by the wall, which is why you can install it almost touching the wall.
  12. yukonerci

    yukonerci New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Location:
    Yukon, Canada
    HMMM... Good point hj. Wondering why my plumber friend didn't catch on that! But it all makes sense now. Should work out! So is dish soap good enough or something else would be better to lube?

    Thanks a lot finally I can finish the job!!!


    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 16, 2011
  13. BobL43

    BobL43 DIY Senior Member

    Messages:
    1,794
    Location:
    Long Island, NY
    I guess plumbers grease ( Oatey) is compatible with the O ring
  14. aviator8

    aviator8 New Member

    Messages:
    1
    Location:
    Cumming Ga
    Hi,
    I have been lurking awhile but I have a question now that I can't find the answer to. I Have a delta shower kit which includes a tub spout with this screw on adapter. I was really hoping this was a lock nut tub filler as they are so much easier to install. What I am trying to puzzle out is; How do you determine how far out to solder the adapter? If it is in the wrong position I could end up screwing on the spout and have it tighten against the tile pointing up or sideways. I am not quite sure what the best way to make sure that it seats against the tile ending in the right position would be. Can anyone offer advice?
  15. BobL43

    BobL43 DIY Senior Member

    Messages:
    1,794
    Location:
    Long Island, NY
    I was under the impreesion that all of the above posts in this thread answered that. I just followed the instructions on the sheet that came with the spout/valve assembly. The seal is not dependant on the spout bottoming out on the threads, but is just a matter of the o ring having entered into the smoothe sealing part of the spout. Once the o ring is in that area, you can tighten the spout until it contacts the wall. I see your point, though, but there is normally enough give in the wall pipe to allow the spout to be turned so it faces down;)
  16. jimbo

    jimbo Plumber

    Messages:
    8,997
    Location:
    San Diego
    The instructions give a range for the distance from the wall....this range is what makes it so user friendly. \
    For bobl you don't use plumbers grease on o-rings. Bad for the rubber. Silicone grease is called for, and for a one-time deal like a tub spout, soap won't hurt.

    Plumbers grease is meant for metal parts, like stem threads,cloth-impregnated packing, bonnet threads, etc. It has been widely used as a general purpose lubricant, but in the "o-ring world" it is not appropriate.
  17. BobL43

    BobL43 DIY Senior Member

    Messages:
    1,794
    Location:
    Long Island, NY
    Thanks Jimbo, I did not know that about plumbers grease. I guess then it is made from petroleum. And I thought all modern "rubber" items items are made from neoprene. Got to do some Googlin' now
  18. BobL43

    BobL43 DIY Senior Member

    Messages:
    1,794
    Location:
    Long Island, NY
    Jimbo, I got out my tube of Plumber's grease I obught at Ace hdwe a while back at at least "it" says it is OK for O-rings. I guess there is other plumber's grease and not all O-rings are safe? anyway some pics attached here.

    Attached Files:

  19. Plumber111

    Plumber111 In the Trades

    Messages:
    76
    Location:
    North Carolina
    Sounds like you're just getting the resistance of the o-ring and are scared to turn it further to get it on. You have other spouts if this one is damaged. Screw it on.
  20. liquidplumber

    liquidplumber In the Trades

    Messages:
    69
    Location:
    Gastonia NC
    HEHEHEHEHE..... thats exactly what i was thinking! Ive installed thousands of those spouts, yes really thousands. I love them.. sometimes the first thread or 2 is actually tightening up the plastic assembly inside the spout and it seems like maybe its gonna break. But keep going. use 2 hands and turn it. It isnt a loose sloppy fit, its fairly snug so it takes a little effort to turn it. I usually turn the valve on before I set the spout up against the back wall so that i can see if the solder job and o ring are actually sealing. if they dont seal, water will spray backwards thru the hole in the tub wall and soak the area behind the wall.

    It shouldnt take a wrench, but it will take a little effort to get it threaded on. and it usually gets a little easier after a few threads
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