Delta Acrylic Bathtub Drain Sealant

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DanielAZ

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This is my first post although I've used this forum quite a bit for a lot of good information. Thanks!

Installing a Delta Classic 400 Acrylic Bathtub and I have a couple of questions about sealing the drain. In the instructions it says not to use plumbers putty which I've read about in the past. It says to use a polymer sealant and give three recommendations: DAP 3.0 Kitchen, Bath and Plumbing High Performance Sealant, Red Devil RD 3000 Advanced Kitchen and Bath Sealant, and ECO-BOND Kitchen, bath Plumbing Adhesive Sealant. I called the manufacture to verify that these are the sealants they recommend for the drain.

1) I've never heard of using these kinds of sealants on a drain before. On acrylics, Silicone has always been recommended. That includes on this site. I've also read that I should always follow manufactures directions. Should I use one of these or just use silicone?

2)
This bathtub has a black plastic supporting framework underneath the tub which is supposed to eliminate the need for a mortar bed. That's good however it also surrounds the drain opening. Meaning a cross-section would show the tub bottom, then a gap, then the black plastic. If I install the drain/overflow kit as normal the drain ell will be up against the black plastic support NOT the tub bottom leaving a gap between the support and the tub. Meaning the rubber gasket is actually not touching the bottom of the tub. This gap closes when I tighten the drain but there is not a gasket in there. I thought that the bottom gasket was the real seal here. Anyone have any experience installing these types of tubs? Below is a picture of the framework.

Thank You!

delta-tub-profile.jpg
 

Terry

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The Tub drain seals with the rubber washer between the tub and the drain shoe.

I Have used stainless putty on those. Sometimes the tub waste and overflow comes with a thin ring that goes down. It hardly matters what you use there, as long as it doesn't stain the tub.
 

DanielAZ

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Thanks for the reply! That makes sense although what about that black plastic frame underneath. Have you had experience with these tubs?
 

DanielAZ

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I thought maybe the description of the black plastic framework may not have made sense so here are a couple of pictures. See how it surrounds the bottom of the drain hole? It's not so easy to see in the photos but the white acrylic and the black plastic are not joined in any way. There's is a space between the two. The space closes when I screw the drain into the shoe but there is no sealer or gasket between the two. Seems like a leak point to me. Thinking of trying to squeeze some silicone or sealer in there. Any thoughts?

IMG_0660.JPG
IMG_0663.JPG
 

Terry

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Maybe that's why they want you to goo it up. I have not seen that. My experience following a plumber that used Silicone, was spending time cutting it all away and starting fresh doing a "clean" install.
 

jim f

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Hi, brand new to the site. I just encountered this very problem today. I did not notice the fine print warning not to use plumber's putty so forged ahead with the plumber's putty. The drain held water with the plug in. But when I unplugged the drain it leaked around either around the drain shoe gasket or in between these two layers of Acrylic and black plastic. I have yet to determine the exact cause of the leak. Called delta and was then told that the plumber's putty was not to be used and would void the warranty. They then gave me the same sealants recommended in the above post, but nowhere in the installation instructions could I find those recommendations. Has anyone else encountered a problem sealing these? If it's leaking past that flat rubber gasket that came with the drain and overflow kit or leaking in between layers, either way, it's a problem. I'm going to try to put the drain together with the proper sealant without fitting it in the alcove to try to get a better idea where it may be leaking if it still is.
 

Dj2

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How about doing what Delta recommends?
I've been using plumber's putty all my life (non acrylic tubs)...but it's a new and rapidly changing world now.
Maybe, just maybe, it will seal correctly??
 

jim f

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How about doing what Delta recommends?
I've been using plumber's putty all my life (non acrylic tubs)...but it's a new and rapidly changing world now.
Maybe, just maybe, it will seal correctly??
That's nice in theory but this is all they say about the drain in their installation instructions: "Attach drain and overflow following manufacturer’s instructions. NOTE: Drain/overflow assembly should be sized for 16 1/2” (41.91 cm) deep bathtub. ! Plumber’s putty will degrade bathtub material. Do not use plumber’s putty to seal between drain and bathtub. Use latex/acrylic sealant or a gasket." So nowhere does it say goop it up with the latex/acrylic sealant so that it seals those two layers. Also they do say you can use a gasket instead of the sealant which is what I tried today with my test hookup- one of the two flat rubber gaskets that came with the drain kit with the other gasket between the tub bottom and drain shoe as normal. It held water with the drain plug in but when I let the water out, it leaked between the black plastic base and the white acrylic tub. The Delt rep was no help either.
 

RobertG1979

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I have this EXACT tub and problem! I am going to try to find someone in the plumbing section where I got this tub (HD) to see what they say. I was thinking about trying to either wedge a gasket in there or seal with silicon. I would like to see if I could cut away the black plastic around the drain but think that won't be reasonable approach. When I get to a solution I will post it but if anyone has ideas, I would love my third water test to be a pass so I can move on!
 

RobertG1979

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I have this EXACT tub and problem! I am going to try to find someone in the plumbing section where I got this tub (HD) to see what they say. I was thinking about trying to either wedge a gasket in there or seal with silicon. I would like to see if I could cut away the black plastic around the drain but think that won't be reasonable approach. When I get to a solution I will post it but if anyone has ideas, I would love my third water test to be a pass so I can move on!

I quit. I sealed it up and I think the drain knocked some of the seal loose. 'This poc is going back and I have wasted too many days trying to make it work
 

bahughes

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I know this is an old post, but I wanted to comment because I had the same struggle making this Delta 400 tub drain seal correctly. I agree, the Delta instructions are POOR regarding the drain. As everyone mentioned, beneath the tub there is a layer of black plastic, and there's an air gap between the two layers where the drain passes through. First attempt, mine leaked like crazy. I had only sealed between the drain and the top side of the tub, which is normal; but with this application, the water made its way back up the threads and leaked between those two layers.
My solution was to put a thick bead of plumber's putty (non-petroleum based for the acrylic tub) between the drain and tub, AND ran a thick line of Blue Monster Thread Sealant around the male threads. I let it sit for 24 hours before testing it, and it now holds perfectly. I hope this helps someone else, because it was incredibly frustrating!

TubDrain.jpg
 

John Neves

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I just installed the same tub and it leaked as described by everyone. It seemed to leak mostly under pressure when draining a full tub. Has anyone tried to cement the two surfaces with pvc cement? I might try to just silicone the whole thing between the bottom gasket and the drain basket.
 

JG1980

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I see that all the threads refer to the bathtub drain shoe leaking and I can see why or how it would.
I know these are old threads and I am currently installing a "Delta 48"x 34" " 2019 shower pan kit with direct to stud fastening system.
All though the shower pan is somewhat different it has a foam backer in lieu of putting a mortar bed down and you glue it directly to the floor.
Now I did find it interesting that they called for D.A.P 3.0 Kitchen, bath, plumbing sealant instead of plumbers putty.
Upon calling them, the reason they want D.A.P 3.0 used on Pro-acrylic is that supposedly the plumbers putty shrinks and can cause micro fissure spider web cracking around the drain.
All I can say is that after reading all the complaints about the bath tub I sealed around the top of the floor pan where the drain is pushed in, and then I also sealed the upper / bottom portion of the flange of the drain assembly that pushes on to the shower pan. Then screwed it onto the back which was difficult because of the foam backer.
I then let the product sit for 24 hours. The next day I raised the pan about 3' in the air with a 5'gallon bucket under neath for drainage and put a 4 hour water test on it to see if any water leaked from the gasket area underneath or from the sealant on the top.
After 4 hours and checking to see if it had any water drops or leaks. Knock on wood no issues. Even then I was leery about it leaking because they have some kind of gray piece that is about an 1/8" that separated the bottom of the drain gasket. But so far so good.
Other then around the drain I and I am referring to the pan now. After just gluing it down I noticed it kind of hand a crinking sound but hopefully the glue takes care of that with some pressure on the pan from weight and the glue setting.
 

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JG1980

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I see that all the threads refer to the bathtub drain shoe leaking and I can see why or how it would.
I know these are old threads and I am currently installing a "Delta 48"x 34" " 2019 shower pan kit with direct to stud fastening system.
All though the shower pan is somewhat different it has a foam backer in lieu of putting a mortar bed down and you glue it directly to the floor.
Now I did find it interesting that they called for D.A.P 3.0 Kitchen, bath, plumbing sealant instead of plumbers putty.
Upon calling them, the reason they want D.A.P 3.0 used on Pro-acrylic is that supposedly the plumbers putty shrinks and can cause micro fissure spider web cracking around the drain.
All I can say is that after reading all the complaints about the bath tub I sealed around the top of the floor pan where the drain is pushed in, and then I also sealed the upper / bottom portion of the flange of the drain assembly that pushes on to the shower pan. Then screwed it onto the back which was difficult because of the foam backer.
I then let the product sit for 24 hours. The next day I raised the pan about 3' in the air with a 5'gallon bucket under neath for drainage and put a 4 hour water test on it to see if any water leaked from the gasket area underneath or from the sealant on the top.
After 4 hours and checking to see if it had any water drops or leaks. Knock on wood no issues. Even then I was leery about it leaking because they have some kind of gray piece that is about an 1/8" that separated the bottom of the drain gasket. But so far so good.
Other then around the drain I and I am referring to the pan now. After just gluing it down I noticed it kind of hand a crinking sound but hopefully the glue takes care of that with some pressure on the pan from weight and the glue setting.
 

JG1980

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After installing the product and the wall surround it seems solid. This kept in fact the instruction do not jive with installation and their stud layout. The only thing I have noticed with the shower pan is that around the center of the drain if you walk on it the pan makes a crepe paper or crunching sound just as if you are breaking in plastic and its still moving around. Mind you the pan is glued in place per instructions. I just think they need to quit over engineering the mind set of the product. Once I finish the drywall and actually use the shower I will be able to check for full pressure leaks when you are standing on or around the drain inlet.
 

Jpb71

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I know this is an old post, but I wanted to comment because I had the same struggle making this Delta 400 tub drain seal correctly. I agree, the Delta instructions are POOR regarding the drain. As everyone mentioned, beneath the tub there is a layer of black plastic, and there's an air gap between the two layers where the drain passes through. First attempt, mine leaked like crazy. I had only sealed between the drain and the top side of the tub, which is normal; but with this application, the water made its way back up the threads and leaked between those two layers.
My solution was to put a thick bead of plumber's putty (non-petroleum based for the acrylic tub) between the drain and tub, AND ran a thick line of Blue Monster Thread Sealant around the male threads. I let it sit for 24 hours before testing it, and it now holds perfectly. I hope this helps someone else, because it was incredibly frustrating!

View attachment 51091
So did you actually put a gasket between the black base and the tub itself?

My tub is already installed and cannot find the exact leak but found your post to potentially be a good fix.

Nice artwork too.
 

Jpb71

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I know this is an old post, but I wanted to comment because I had the same struggle making this Delta 400 tub drain seal correctly. I agree, the Delta instructions are POOR regarding the drain. As everyone mentioned, beneath the tub there is a layer of black plastic, and there's an air gap between the two layers where the drain passes through. First attempt, mine leaked like crazy. I had only sealed between the drain and the top side of the tub, which is normal; but with this application, the water made its way back up the threads and leaked between those two layers.
My solution was to put a thick bead of plumber's putty (non-petroleum based for the acrylic tub) between the drain and tub, AND ran a thick line of Blue Monster Thread Sealant around the male threads. I let it sit for 24 hours before testing it, and it now holds perfectly. I hope this helps someone else, because it was incredibly frustrating!

View attachment 51091
How long should I wait before testing for a leak?

Is there a setting time for the puddy?
 

phastbus

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I would use the drain gasket, that should seal the drain to the tub, then use a thread sealant to prevent leakage into the black plastic area via the threads. Something from Rectorseal or teflon tape should do the trick.
 
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