Deep Well submersible Pumps runs continuously.

Discussion in 'Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog' started by hygron, Jan 29, 2010.

  1. hygron

    hygron New Member

    Messages:
    43
    Location:
    Hell Hole Swamp
    I cut the power, and replaced pressure switch. Pump still ran, and I assumed pipe to outlet of pump had broken allowing pump to run. After pulling pump up, and replacing coupling to pvc which broke off completely right as I was pulling the pump out of drop pipe; I replaced pump into well, and cut on power. pump is still running, but have absolutely no pressure.

    Is this possibly a sign that the impeller has broken,,and although pump is running, no water is pumping up the line?

    Thanks ahead for your help. Great forum, hygron
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2010
  2. RayMan

    RayMan Shared Well Services

    Messages:
    30
    Location:
    Arizona
    Is there enough water in the well to pump or is the well going to a dry state right after the pump is turned on? How deep is the well?

    Maybe a hole or crack somewhere in the line not allowing pressure to build if it's got water.
  3. nhmaster

    nhmaster Master Plumber

    Messages:
    3,189
    Location:
    S. Maine
    Either the well is dry or the pump is bad.
  4. hygron

    hygron New Member

    Messages:
    43
    Location:
    Hell Hole Swamp
    Line was full of water, when I cut the manifold loose. I think we would've noticed that the well was running dry before 2 days ago when water pressure abruptly stopped.

    Well is a deep well drilled after failure/drying of shallow well. Water is great and plentiful, but pump is only 30 feet below the surface...give or take a couple feet
  5. cacher_chick

    cacher_chick Test, Don't Guess!

    Messages:
    3,246
    Location:
    Land of Cheese
    Don't know where you are located but I'm guessing the line between the well and the house is frozen shut. If so, your pump will eventually be damaged from dead-heading the pressure if it is not already.
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2010
  6. RayMan

    RayMan Shared Well Services

    Messages:
    30
    Location:
    Arizona
    Can you open a line before going into your pressure tank and run the pump for 5 minutes or so to make sure its pumping a good flow of water and eliminate the pump as the problem?
  7. Waterwelldude

    Waterwelldude Well driller,pump repair. and septic installer

    Messages:
    303
    Location:
    Texas
    You said: After pulling pump up, and replacing coupling to pvc which broke off

    When you glued it back, did you use cleaner or primer on the fitting?
    If you did, it has probably fallen off. Putting primer or cleaner on pump drop pipe is a big mistake. It will not hold.
    It should be sanded and then glued.
  8. hygron

    hygron New Member

    Messages:
    43
    Location:
    Hell Hole Swamp
    No. It isn't. We live in the Francis Marion forest, In S.C. It was an almost freezing night before well pressure went away. I know the main line is good because I back filled it by adding a threaded T, to a valve right behind the normal feed under the home. I added the hose from neighbors water supply here, and shut valve at well. It filled the line to the well valve. So main lined filled, and house is supplied with having to replumb everything. thanks
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2010
  9. hygron

    hygron New Member

    Messages:
    43
    Location:
    Hell Hole Swamp
    Definitely tried that. Nice common sense question, tough.
  10. hygron

    hygron New Member

    Messages:
    43
    Location:
    Hell Hole Swamp
    I did not add primer. I cleaned it with a rag, and glued the fitting onto drop pipe, then dropped it back into hole. wire, and rope is fairly snug to pipe, and motor; So I don't think pump fell off pipe. I am testing old pump I replaced a few years ago before I knew what to look for.

    Neighbor allowed me to hook up line to his well, so we have water for a couple days until I replace or fix this pump. Leads me to another question. I see refurbished pumps online. Can I fix my own Flotec pump? Where can I get an impeller kit?
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2010
  11. hygron

    hygron New Member

    Messages:
    43
    Location:
    Hell Hole Swamp
    Now that I have read pertinent submersible well pump threads, I have deiced to re-plumb entire system using 160-200psi PE pipe, whether I buy a new pump or not. Is this feasible? From what I read it is the best option, and can be used to very inexpensively re-new my water supply lines.

    I already use 1-1/4 inch PE to my greenhouse. I want to run from pump to bladder with 1-1/4" or 1" whatever size tank outlet is and then out to house with 1" PE pipe. Can I use 1" PE pipe all the way to the house from bladder tank? For the entire job?
  12. RayMan

    RayMan Shared Well Services

    Messages:
    30
    Location:
    Arizona
    Is there a leak in the drop pipe which will not allow you to build pressure? I don't know the casing size but since its only 30 feet you might be able to see it with a good light unless its a crack only running down the side of the of the drop pipe. If not , is there a slow leak in the bladder of the pressure tank or the cut out (small bolt) on the pressure control switch is set to low allowing the pump to just run.
  13. RayMan

    RayMan Shared Well Services

    Messages:
    30
    Location:
    Arizona
  14. hygron

    hygron New Member

    Messages:
    43
    Location:
    Hell Hole Swamp
    Thanks for the great link. Nah. We had a pressure switch that was locked on in the beginning of this problem. It had been working great for a couple years. I immediately switched out the pressure sw., although it appeared to work despite one contact being pitted. Then when I cut power back on, I noticed pump running. You could feel the vibration in the well system. So I assumed, because this happened a few years ago, the coupling had cracked at outlet to pump. So we pulled the pump and replaced the coupling. I dropped pipe, wire, rope, and pump back into casing. Wired it up with an open line short of the tank/sw. etc...and no water pumped out. Well here we are.

    Read all posts above to see where I am going with this please. Thanks RayMan,

    hygron
  15. cacher_chick

    cacher_chick Test, Don't Guess!

    Messages:
    3,246
    Location:
    Land of Cheese
    PE is fine but make sure you are getting PE rated for potable water not for irrigation.

    Not sure how your components are set up. In areas that freeze the plumbing code will specify the depth that the line must be buried to protect it from freezing. The pressure tank must also be protected. Here the well tank is in the basement or in the house if there is no basement. The pressure switch must be right at the pressure tank.

    Glued PVC should not be used for drop pipe in a well. PVC made for drop pipe is threaded and uses threaded couplings.

    Flotec pumps are not rated well by any water professionals I know. I think "junk" is the word commonly used.
  16. hygron

    hygron New Member

    Messages:
    43
    Location:
    Hell Hole Swamp
    So... potable PE. OK. got it. We have very few freezing nights. Even fewer days. This winter has been much colder than normal in some respects. Like the mid 20 degree weather we are getting the next 2 evenings.

    Most folks here have a casing, to bladder tank with pressure sw. righyt there within 2 feet or less of the tank. Mine is T up out of main pipe. If I build a small pump house and put a light in there, I will be safe year round. As far as water pipe, I believe we do not have to go much deeper than 6-12" deep.

    thanks for the input on glue. since I am re-plumbing this is great info, aside from the fact I plan on using PE. But, threaded drop pipe...check.

    Without going over the top price wise. What do professionals consider a decent reliable pump on the inexpensive side?
  17. Gary Slusser

    Gary Slusser That's all folks!

    I suggest doing a few electrical tests with a multimeter on the wires from the switch to the pump. With the power on to the switch you can scheck for voltage across the switch and then with it off and the wires to the pump off the switch, check for ohms and shorts. If you have a control box, check the wires from there to the pump by removing the cover of the box (with the power off). You can also check for voltage and then with the power off, ohms, opens and shorts at the well by undoing the wire nuts under the well casing cap.

    Start here;
    http://www.franklin-electric.com/business/WaterSystems/service/AIM/page-13.aspx
  18. hygron

    hygron New Member

    Messages:
    43
    Location:
    Hell Hole Swamp
    We tested it for over 10 amps, and drawing 240 something volts. I believe.

    Did not check ohms when turned off. I still think impeller failed, and pump is running, but impeller is not. We'll find out tomorrow. Thanks
  19. Waterwelldude

    Waterwelldude Well driller,pump repair. and septic installer

    Messages:
    303
    Location:
    Texas
    What HP pump do you have. If its a 1hp 10 amps are right for the pump and motor to be doing right.
    How long did you let the glue dry before you put it back down?
    Your glued fitting may have come apart.
    Like has already been said. Glued fittings on well drop pipe is a bad idea.
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2010
  20. RayMan

    RayMan Shared Well Services

    Messages:
    30
    Location:
    Arizona
    Do you think you still have a leak or blockage somewhere and thats what burnt the pump up or was it a defective pump the whole time? Sounds like you are in or close to the Appalachian Mountains where the freeze line would be 18-24 inches, be sure to pack the soil real well when you cover your pipe, loose soil will freeze deeper then packed especially if it's shaded in winter. I run a Jacuzzi Pump which is Franklin Electric so far its never had a problem after 12 years of service. Even pulling 30 feet is a pain when you have to do it 3 or 4 times. Good Luck and enjoy the bottled water for now.
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