Dead Culligan Estate 2 - How to remove & what's next?

Discussion in 'Water Softener Forum, problems, installation and r' started by hiperco, Dec 22, 2012.

  1. hiperco

    hiperco Member

    Messages:
    56
    Location:
    Upstate NY
    A few months ago my Culligan Estate 2 failed catastrophically with water spraying out from the control valve. I used the peripheral plumbing already in place to bypass it. Today I noticed its still leaking (slowly), which means my bypass valve(s) probably need repair. In the mean time, I pushed the softener bypass to "bypass" as well.

    Questions:

    1) Can I reuse the existing bypass with a new softener?

    2) If so, how does the control valve disconnect from the bypass valve? I'm guessing they are connected by fittings with o-rings, and all I need to do is remove the screws and u-clip holding them together, then simply pull apart? I assume I can do this without turning off the water (assuming the softener bypass isn't failed in some way)?

    3) What softener should I buy to replace it?



    IMG_1273 (Medium).jpg IMG_1274 (Medium).jpg IMG_1275 (Medium).jpg IMG_1276 (Medium).jpg
    Pictures attached!
  2. Akpsdvan

    Akpsdvan In the Trades

    Messages:
    1,483
    Location:
    Alaska
    The bypass, the culligan one might need some new o rings if it is leaking out one of the ends after you push the piston left or right.
    There are 2 screws that hold the metal plate to the brass bypass, there are 2 screws that then hold the metal plate to the valve body along with the metal u clip that goes down through the metal plate into the valve body.

    Where was the water leaking from that made you put it into the bypass mode?
  3. hiperco

    hiperco Member

    Messages:
    56
    Location:
    Upstate NY
    We have city water with a lot of chlorine, which I would be happy to eliminate as much as possible. Any opinions on:

    1) Waterboss 950?

    2) Kenmore Elite Hybrid?
  4. Bob999

    Bob999 In the Trades

    Messages:
    448
    Location:
    Pennsylvania
    Buy a unit with a Fleck control head. There are online suppliers that sell complete units at excellent prices.

    I don't recommend either of the units you mention.
  5. ditttohead

    ditttohead Water systems designer, R&D

    Messages:
    1,840
    Location:
    Ontario California
    I agree, the Fleck head unit will serve you for many years, will have parts available, ans is easily maintained. Do not get a unit with the medias mixed inside the same tank. A stacked tank design is fine, or 2 seperate tanks.
  6. hiperco

    hiperco Member

    Messages:
    56
    Location:
    Upstate NY
    Are there any units with Fleck heads that remove chlorine? Thanks!
  7. Mikey

    Mikey Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek

    Messages:
    2,714
    Location:
    Central Florida
  8. hiperco

    hiperco Member

    Messages:
    56
    Location:
    Upstate NY
  9. Bob999

    Bob999 In the Trades

    Messages:
    448
    Location:
    Pennsylvania
  10. Mikey

    Mikey Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek

    Messages:
    2,714
    Location:
    Central Florida
    Sorry, I'd forgotten how that thread developed. Carbon is commonly used to remove chlorine by an adsorption process, usually following a chlorinator, but also as a stand-alone solution to chlorine in municipal water. You can google "activated carbon chlorine removal" to read lots of impartial information on the subject, and most on-line sellers of the systems will be happy to recommend their products. I've heard that these are illegal in some municipalities, but can't confirm that. I've used several on-line vendors that I would recommend, including http://cleanwaterstore.com/carbon-backwash-filters.html, http://www.ohiopurewater.com/shop/customer/home.php?cat=339.
    Last edited: Feb 17, 2013
  11. Akpsdvan

    Akpsdvan In the Trades

    Messages:
    1,483
    Location:
    Alaska
    I take it from the flow of the thread that the Culligan unit is in the trash and that there are other units being looked at for removal of Chlorine and then the hardness in the water?

    Also if one is thinking of the use of another valve on the culligan media tank? It will never work as the culligan threads are different and will not take any thing other than a culligan valve.
    Last edited: Dec 24, 2012
  12. hiperco

    hiperco Member

    Messages:
    56
    Location:
    Upstate NY
    The Culligan isn't in the trash yet, although I want to beat it with a baseball bat after the way that it failed ;) (Spraying water everywhere, if someone hadn't been home and heard the water it would have been very bad :mad:).

    Is there a practical option to rebuild the Culligan using aftermarket parts? The brine tank is fine, the media tank seems ok, its just the valve section that appears to be bad...(EDIT - I see your edit explaining that it can't be done...rats!)
    Last edited: Dec 24, 2012
  13. Akpsdvan

    Akpsdvan In the Trades

    Messages:
    1,483
    Location:
    Alaska
    What part of the valve is in need of help?
    There are not after market parts, but there are often new and used culligan parts showing up from time to time that could be used, but again what part of the valve was the leak at or on?
  14. hiperco

    hiperco Member

    Messages:
    56
    Location:
    Upstate NY
    The valve was leaking out of one of the front shafts. Due to the age of the Culligan I want to trash everything and get a new system. Any other comments (pro or con) with Ohio Pure Water? Anyone else have a favorite online store for water softeners?

    EDIT: Would it make any sense (or even be possible) to use the Culligan brine tank with a new softener?
  15. Mikey

    Mikey Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek

    Messages:
    2,714
    Location:
    Central Florida
    As a DIYer who took a long time to find out where the rocks were in the water treatment swamp, I'd recommend trashing everything and starting fresh with a complete new system from a single vendor. Everything will be sized correctly, all the parts & pieces will work together, you'll get instruction manuals that match the equipment, and usually pretty good telephone support. The brine tank and tower at retail is under $100, and, as part of a complete carbon filter and softener system, won't add much to the total tab. The only thing requiring any skill is matching up your controller adapters to your existing plumbing. That's all nicely exposed, so it's basically an easy job for someone who knows how to work with copper pipe and solder. I wouldn't hire whoever did the original plumbing, though -- it's pretty ugly, even by my standards.
  16. hiperco

    hiperco Member

    Messages:
    56
    Location:
    Upstate NY
    I decided we've lived with hard water long enough, so I'm about ready to order a new softener. My situation is as listed below

    > People in Home: 3
    > Number of Full Bathrooms: 2
    > Hardness Value: 15
    > Hardness Unit: gpg
    > Iron Value: 0
    > Iron Unit: ppm
    > pH Value: 7.0
    > Flow Rate: 7
    > Raw Water Color: no
    > Raw Water Odor: no
    > Raw Water Clear: yes
    > Raw Water Is Clear but turns color overnight: no
    > Odor is gone overnight: yes
    > Sediment present overnight: no
    > Slimy buildup in tank: no
    > Iron stains on fixtures: no
    > Water Line Size: 3/4

    Based on this, one of the online suppliers has suggested the following softener. Comments?

    Fleck 5600SXT Electronic 3/4 Inch Meter On Demand Control Valve Water Softener 40000 Grain Capacity
    10x44 Resin tank
    1.25 cubic feet of NSF Approved High Capacity Cation 8% Crosslink Softening Resin
    10 gpm service flow rate
    2.5 gpm backwash flow rate
    Selected options:
    Fleck Valve Connection: 3/4 Inch Noryl Yoke with Noryl Bypass Valve
    Tank Color Option: Almond
    Brine Tank Size: 15x17x36 Rect Brine Tank
  17. hiperco

    hiperco Member

    Messages:
    56
    Location:
    Upstate NY
    Still hoping for some input here :)

    For example, I am wondering if 40K grain capacity is a bit much for my situation?
  18. Gary Slusser

    Gary Slusser That's all folks!

    Why do you think 40K may be too much?
  19. mialynette2003

    mialynette2003 Member

    Messages:
    738
    Location:
    Ocala, Florida
    I've always used this forumal: 1 CF = 30,000 @ 15 lbs of salt or 20,000 @ 6 lbs of salt. In your case 30k*1.25=37500 @ 18.75 or 20k*1.25=25000 @ 7.5. Look at your requirements: 3 people*65 usage per person*15 hardness=2925 hardness removed per day. 25000-2925=22075/65/3/15=7.5 days between regens. So I think the system that was recommended is proper.
  20. hiperco

    hiperco Member

    Messages:
    56
    Location:
    Upstate NY
    Thanks for the advice and comments (and Gary's calculator). I ordered the 40,000 grain 5600SXT unit today from OPWC :)
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