CVPC to Shower valve?

Discussion in 'Shower & Bathtub Forum & Blog' started by JBoo, Dec 31, 2005.

  1. JBoo

    JBoo New Member

    Messages:
    2
    First off, thanks for everyone contributing to this forum. It has been helpful to a novice like me.
    Now down to the nitty-gritty, I am in the midst of a shower remodel and need some insight. The water lines from my concrete foundation are CVPC (1/2"). The CVPC is connected to copper which is then ran to my shower valve. Copper is also ran from my valve to the shower head.
    I would like to replace my valve w/ a new one. I have no experience working w/ copper pipe. Can I use CVPC in place of the copper, essentially eliminating all the copper pipe in the shower area? :confused:
  2. Cass

    Cass Plumber

    Messages:
    5,980
    Location:
    Ohio
    Sure, but personally I don't like CPVC. I wouldn't use anything behind a shower wall but copper, but thats just me. Why don't you want to use copper?
  3. Cal

    Cal New Member

    Messages:
    228
    Location:
    Northern Virginia
    J BOO,

    You will need to get a shower valve that has 1/2" female ips threads for it's connections. Then you will need 1/2" BRASS (Male threads) to 1/2" cpvc adaptors. Please DON'T use 1/2" cpvc male adaptors,,,,could be a bad issue.

    Thread the new adaptors into the valve body and off you go with all cpvc.

    You will also need a 1/2" cpvc/brass wing ell for the shower head. You should get all this at a supply house instead of a big box store.

    cal
  4. JBoo

    JBoo New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Thanks Cal for the helpful info! Cass, I do prefer copper however I am a little intimidated with the propane torch thing...might catch the house on fire :D
  5. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    22,319
    Location:
    New England
    You could assembly most of that in copper on the garage floor. Just keep a spray bottle of water around. A little practice with some $0.30 couplers or elbos and you should get the feel for it pretty quickly. MAPP gas burns hotter, and you don't need to keep the flame on the joint as long, but propane will work okay, too, just takes longer.
  6. Gary Swart

    Gary Swart In the Trades

    Messages:
    7,396
    Location:
    Yakima WA
    Soldering around and close to wood does have some risks, and you sure could burn the house down if you tried to solder without a flame shield between the fittings and wood and if you didn't have a sprayer of water handy just in case you got a little careless, but these precautions are simple and easy to apply. I use a #10 can with both ends removed and split open and a notch cut about 1/2 way the through the center for a shield and this works quite well. Just watch the sharp edges on the can where you cut it! Beside the spray bottle of water, I keep so wet rags real handy.
  7. Cal

    Cal New Member

    Messages:
    228
    Location:
    Northern Virginia
    JBOO,

    Nice advise you are getting on NOT burning your house down . I've soldered for a LONG time,,,,,if you ain't that comfortable with it in tight places,,,,re-read my advice on cpvc.

    good luck !
    cal
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