cutting vertical cast iron stack...

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice' started by coach606, Jul 2, 2006.

  1. coach606

    coach606 New Member

    Messages:
    144
    Location:
    Illinois
    Just planning here. I will eventually run a 3" drain line to a vertical cast iron stack in the basement. The basement stack has cast iron plumbing above it for a bathroom and the goes through the roof. This plumbing is well supported, but I plan on providing more support before cutting the stack.

    After making sure there is tons of support for any pipes above, I'm going to build a soffit around the C.I. stack and attach riser clamps to it above an below the cut.

    I'll then cut a section of pipe out using snap cutters. My plan is to use a no hub wye fitting 3 x 3 x 3 and fit it into a street 45 to head vertical and pick up the dwv. Or is it better to just use a 3 x 3 x 3 pvc fitting with two no hub adapters?

    Any problems with doing it this way? I know things can go wrong, but I assume that if I properly support all the pipes I can use a no hub fitting to connect pvc to my cast iron.

    Or do I need to consider getting a cast iron wye fitting, pounding in oakum and then sealing over it with liquid lead?

    thanks for the advice.
    Last edited: Jul 2, 2006
  2. Cass

    Cass Plumber

    Messages:
    5,980
    Location:
    Ohio
    Use banded couplings.
  3. Lakee911

    Lakee911 I&C Engineer (mostly WWTP)

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    1,328
    Location:
    Columbus, OH
    If I had nothing better to do, I might try this...just to see what it is like. Completely unecssary though.

    If noise is an issue, I would do hubless CI or PVC if it is not.

    Jason
  4. coach606

    coach606 New Member

    Messages:
    144
    Location:
    Illinois
    noise isn't an issue...

    Noise isn't an issue so I guess I'll just go with the pvc and banded couplers.

    Can anyone explain the hubless cast iron? I'm not sure I understand how it works, unless it just sits on the hub of two banded couplings.
  5. Mikey

    Mikey Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek

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    2,726
    Location:
    Central Florida
    A fun job, especially making the molten lead run uphill to seal the lower bell on the wye fitting.
  6. Lakee911

    Lakee911 I&C Engineer (mostly WWTP)

    Messages:
    1,328
    Location:
    Columbus, OH

    The stainless steel banded rubber/neoprene/whatever couplers are the essentially a two-ended hub. You insert both pieces of pipe into the connector/coupler. (They are just butted up together--one pipe does not enter into the other). After you crank down on the bands, it pulls it alltogether inline and forms a leakproof rigid connection.

    Jason
  7. Lakee911

    Lakee911 I&C Engineer (mostly WWTP)

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    1,328
    Location:
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    How do you do that?
  8. Mikey

    Mikey Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek

    Messages:
    2,726
    Location:
    Central Florida
    Ask an old plumber, I guess. I remember watching my father when we built our house back in ought-50, but I don't remember the details. As I recall, there was a rope-like thing wrapped around the lower pipe that allowed you to pour a ring of lead in the general area, then it was tamped upward with a kind of offset chisel-thingy called a caulking iron or packing iron. All the lead does is hold the oakum in place, so it doesn't have to be pretty -- just tight.
  9. Bud1300

    Bud1300 Plumbing Contractor

    Messages:
    8
    Location:
    Wetumpka Alabama
    You install 1 inch of okum and pack it with a packing iron then you install a joint runner and pour your lead then you us a inside caulking iron then a outside caulking iron to complete the job.
  10. Lakee911

    Lakee911 I&C Engineer (mostly WWTP)

    Messages:
    1,328
    Location:
    Columbus, OH
    Ahh I see. Ok. Thanks.
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