1. PapaFi

    PapaFi New Member

    Messages:
    10
    Location:
    Illinois
    Hi to all!
    Have a 4" PVC stock in the basement. Want to cut in T -Y. Stock is rigid and doesn't look like I can move it. Need step-by step instruction.
    Thanks!
  2. PapaFi

    PapaFi New Member

    Messages:
    10
    Location:
    Illinois
    Just try to clear my question: do I have to play with T and one or two slip couplings or go the easiest way and install saddle?
  3. Smooky

    Smooky Member

    Messages:
    623
    Location:
    NC
  4. jimbo

    jimbo Plumber

    Messages:
    8,997
    Location:
    San Diego
    Saddles are not good. Cut out some pipe, use no-stop couplings and/or steel banded rubber coupliings.\
  5. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,647
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    Saddles are neither good nor approved. Whatcolor is the pipe material? Green, white, or black?
  6. bluebinky

    bluebinky Member

    Messages:
    393
    Location:
    Santa Clara, CA
    I thought you "liked" saddles :p

    Kidding aside, skip the saddle.
  7. PapaFi

    PapaFi New Member

    Messages:
    10
    Location:
    Illinois
    It's PVC white.
  8. PapaFi

    PapaFi New Member

    Messages:
    10
    Location:
    Illinois
    Doesn't help: there is a 7' section of 4" pipe and I need to place a T just above the floor, so there is not enough free movement to spread ends of pipe to insert a T.
    It's why I'm looking to use one or two slip couplings also. The problem is the order in which to play that Tetris:rolleyes:
    I also want to know how much time I have to slip the coupling over part of pipe after cement applied - really don't want to get coupling tackled in the middle of nowhere.
  9. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    22,021
    Location:
    New England
    It's much easier, and also code approved, to use banded, no-hub connectors. The larger the pipe, the harder it is for a DIY'er to get a slip coupling where you want it before things solidify. If you loosen and slide the banded part, the rubber sleeve can be rolled or folded back on itself so you can insert the new fitting with stubs glued in each end, then fold the coupling back, slide the band over it, then tighten it up and that part's done. The nice thing is it gives you easy way to rotate the whole thing to get the angle just where you need it...just loosen the clamps, turn it, retighten. You can use repair couplings if you really want to, but it is unnecessary.
  10. Gary Swart

    Gary Swart In the Trades

    Messages:
    7,350
    Location:
    Yakima WA
    Just be aware that Smock Man may try to sell you a neoprene sleeve with a clamp on each end. This are not approved for above ground connections. As Jim points out, get a banded, no hub. These are somewhat similar, but the clamp covers the entire piece not just the ends. This will give you a ridged connection.
  11. PapaFi

    PapaFi New Member

    Messages:
    10
    Location:
    Illinois
    Thanks! Looks like I need 2 no-hubs? I use to do it in NY on cast iron pipes. Never mentioned do the same on PVC. Going to check local ******* for the fittings.
  12. PapaFi

    PapaFi New Member

    Messages:
    10
    Location:
    Illinois
    So I need 2 no-hubs? Sounds great. I used to put no-hubs on cast-iron pipes and never mentioned do same on PVC. Thanks!
    I also have an other question. If I will use that T for sink drain and sink will be placed 3 or 4 feet away from the stock, do I need dedicated vent line?
  13. cacher_chick

    cacher_chick Test, Don't Guess!

    Messages:
    3,248
    Location:
    Land of Cheese
    If there are any fixtures draining into the stack from above, you cannot use it for a vent.
  14. PapaFi

    PapaFi New Member

    Messages:
    10
    Location:
    Illinois
    That is a main stock in the basement of 2-floor house so they are plenty fixtures above:(
    My I just run a vent line from drain line up to the basement ceiling and out trough the wall? Sorry if that sounds silly:rolleyes:
  15. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    22,021
    Location:
    New England
    Running a vent outside, up the wall, is kind of hokey. You do not need a separate penetration through the roof, but if you can, you should run a new vent up either to at least 6" above the highest fixture, OR 42", whichever is higher. If you could run the new vent into the attic, you could reconnect to the existing vent there, or anywhere else that meets the provisions mentioned above.
  16. PapaFi

    PapaFi New Member

    Messages:
    10
    Location:
    Illinois
    I can't locate where existing vent is, run vent line up to the attic means to do a lot of demolition. When you said " 6 " above the highest fixture' did you mean fixture on the same floor or all building?
  17. PapaFi

    PapaFi New Member

    Messages:
    10
    Location:
    Illinois
    Will AAV solve the issue with vent?
  18. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    22,021
    Location:
    New England
    The general rule is that once a line is used as a drain, it cannot be a vent. To keep a vent a vent, you need to connect one from below high enough so it can't inadvertently become a drain...so, code requires it to be at least 6" above the highest fixture. So, no, that isn't the fixtures in the basement...the connection point for a vent must be above the highest thing above it. Depending on how the vents are run in your house, you might have one for the first floor stuff, and a second one for the second floor stuff, or they both combine into one before going through the roof. You could make one for the basement stuff, or, combine them in an approved manner. Basically, if the first floor is properly vented, you'd only need to go the 6" above that floor's highest fixture flood plane (or 42"), since a vent is a vent. In an older house, though, they didn't always do it such that it would pass codes today, so you might have to go higher to make the new stuff pass.

    AAV's are a mechanical air vent - they let air in, not out. They are not always allowed, and even if allowed, the inspector may give you hassles if there's a way to do it 'right' (i.e., without one). depending on the layout, an AAV may or may not be acceptable. Where ever you do install one, though, it must be accessable, not hidden in a wall without an access plate, since it will eventually fail and need to be replaced.
  19. PapaFi

    PapaFi New Member

    Messages:
    10
    Location:
    Illinois
    Thanks! I can assume that they are vents behind toilets on 1st or 2nd floors, but can't see'm. All pipes in the basement are exposed and came to the main stock, but are they all drains?
  20. cacher_chick

    cacher_chick Test, Don't Guess!

    Messages:
    3,248
    Location:
    Land of Cheese
    The easiest place to run the vent up from the basement is determined by how the walls are positioned in the floors above. The vent can go straight up pretty much anywhere from the basement, it does not have to be directly above the fixture plumbing.

    In many houses a new vent can be brought up through an existing interior wall into the attic or through the roof with no demo at all. In a 2-story, sometimes it is easier to run up through the corner of an existing closet or pantry and then box it in if needed. People run new pipes and wires through walls every day. You might need some help with the job, but it can be done.

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