Curbless Shower

Discussion in 'Shower & bathtub Forum & Blog' started by Freddie, Dec 13, 2012.

  1. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

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    I wouldn't really want a switch or receptacle within easy reaching distance of the tub or shower. The control for my towel warmer is on the side opposite the tub/shower, so you'd have to reach over the towel warmer to get to it...it would be tough without getting out of the tub first. I think that there is a code requirement on the distance from a wet area, but don't have access to the codes easily. But, consider the location of a receptacle over a vanity with the sink right there...easy to reach the water and the electrical appliance at the same time...this is one reason GFCI protection is required.
  2. johnfrwhipple

    johnfrwhipple Bathroom Design & Build - North Vancouver, B.C.

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    post(s) deleted by John Whipple
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2014
  3. Freddie

    Freddie New Member

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    I would think that the CPE membrane would be a better waterproofing than the bonded membrane since I have the choice. I guess the difference might be that the CPE membrane needs more protection before tiling? Can't see why but I'll use what I have to use to keep the thickness of the whole install down but would prefer the CPE membrane.
  4. Freddie

    Freddie New Member

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    Location:
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    John,

    Just looking at some of your photos. In my case I have will have a linear drain at the entrance of the shower which is one end of the rectangle. The floor will slope up from there to the back of the shower. I assume that the glass for the side panel would have to be cut to match the slope of the shower and rest on the edge of the incline. Or, can you just rest in on the main bathroom floor and silicone the glass to the edge of the tile? I would think in either case that one would wrap the waterproofing in under the bathroom floor.

    Just trying to work ahead until I hear back from some of your buddies.

    I'm trying to do the same as on the right photo on page 16 labelled "Installation at the Entrance" except I'll have a door on the entrance as well.

    http://www.quartzbyaco.com/sites/default/files/technical_handbook.pdf
    Last edited: Jan 15, 2013
  5. Freddie

    Freddie New Member

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    Location:
    Ottawa
    Jim, Talked to a guy who sells the Proline drain and he told me that a full Lacticrete lifetime warranty was in order for the entire shower if all their products were used with the Proline drain and that QuickDrain has approved the use of Lacticrete products with their drain. The guy also said that there would be no problem with me matching up this drain with the level of the finished floor. Not a complicated install.

    Above you mentioned how hard my install was and how complicated it was. Am I missing something in the translation.

    Still awaiting response from both Geoff and Eric.
  6. johnfrwhipple

    johnfrwhipple Bathroom Design & Build - North Vancouver, B.C.

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    Last edited: Mar 17, 2014
  7. Freddie

    Freddie New Member

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    Not sure who this Josef is but you must have me mistaken with someone else. The guy I talked to carries the Proline at a retail outlet in Ottawa.

    Yes I understand the deflection and would of course beef up the floor as much as I can. Right now my floor is good for L/720+ as it is. So If I just replace the floor I still have the same rating. If I have enough room I will add additional supportive flooring above the main 5/8" flooring. For the drain area, if I cut the floor I'll beef up the floor by adding additonal floor below that portion and probably the whole shower area.

    This is my option B at this point. I've moved on to trying to use a single point drain in the middle of the shower with a curbless design.
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2013
  8. Freddie

    Freddie New Member

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    Location:
    Ottawa
    John,

    I've taken your advice and contacted both the drain and mortar places and getting them to commit to anything, any product, any thickness required / approved, etc. is like pulling teeth. How have your progressed on this in the past?
  9. johnfrwhipple

    johnfrwhipple Bathroom Design & Build - North Vancouver, B.C.

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    post(s) deleted by John Whipple
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2014
  10. Freddie

    Freddie New Member

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    Location:
    Ottawa
    Own private testing...I'm not doing this as a business so for you that option is obvious for your reputation but I can't spend a year testing various setups and buying various drains for one install in my home.

    Not looking for easy, cheap fast or I wouldn't even be on this board. You've been very helpful in pointing out items that I need to be concerned about and I think I'm fully aware of them now. More than a friend of mine who is a bathroom installer who does great looking stuff and has a good reputation who is oblivious to the word deflection, has never used many of the products that we've talked about. I guess he's been doing it the same way for 20 years with success so why change up things. But can't necessarily trust him as some advice on permits, etc. have not been correct in the least.

    So now I know what needs to be done but how to get going on it is tough seeing that I can't get suppliers to say yes things work together. Might just have to wing it with the knowledge that I have and hope for the best. Not looking for anyone to be held liable for their advice; just looking for information on what they might do. Of course the final decision is mine.
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2013
  11. johnfrwhipple

    johnfrwhipple Bathroom Design & Build - North Vancouver, B.C.

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    Last edited: Mar 17, 2014
  12. Freddie

    Freddie New Member

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    Location:
    Ottawa
    John, I am quite a bit further ahead than that; just haven't selected tiles yet. I think I've found a way to do this anyways.

    Replace 5/8" OSB with 3/4" plywood throught the bathroom. On top of that place Ditra XL over the entire bathroom; laying heating wire in areas that I want within the Ditra XL. Use a QuickDrain Proline flanged drain mounted on top of the Ditra XL; of course Ditra and subfloor cut out to accomodate. I will also add additional supports, as many as I can, near the linear drain without interferring with plumbing, etc..

    Waterproof shower up over top of QuickDrain waterproofing. Tile, add shower glass (sadly it'll have to be custom) and voila t'is done.

    I will slope entire floor in shower and tub floor next to the shower from back to front; about a 3/4" difference over the 3' or so. Cut side glass on angle at bottom and then I'll have the curbless shower I need at both the door and the side of the shower. Haven't been able to figure out a way to tile the side of the shower slope if I don't slope the bathtub area as well.

    Sound good? Anything to worry about or watch out for? Also, once I finalize the size can you quote me on a QuickDrain? You should be able to PM me on this or send me your email address so I can contact you in the next few days.

    thanks,
  13. johnfrwhipple

    johnfrwhipple Bathroom Design & Build - North Vancouver, B.C.

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    post(s) deleted by John Whipple
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2014
  14. Freddie

    Freddie New Member

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    Location:
    Ottawa
    Thx John,

    I'll sign up for your private ideabook and pictures. I'd buy ACO but can't seem to get any info from them on exactly what the mimimum height above the subfloor needs to be given say an allocation of 3/8" for tile and thinset.

    If you could help with this I'd look into ACO again.
  15. Freddie

    Freddie New Member

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    Location:
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    JOhn,
    When I went to the Blog site I could not get to the Canadian Viewer sign-up....it kept sending me to the non-cdn viewer sign-up.
  16. Freddie

    Freddie New Member

    Messages:
    54
    Location:
    Ottawa
    John,

    Seems like all the drains have some type of drawback or negative comments from people online.

    Proline - floor cutting and potential to weaken floor / deflection problems may occur

    Kerdi - many are not so sure of the foam pad that they use, 1" high

    ACO - some have said that it has little flow in the channel an can begin to stink,some don't like the flange version.

    Noble - internal of drain has too many nooks and crannies that can catch lots of junk and not all that easy to remove drain lid, Also is 1.5" high.

    So I think you have to just find one that works for you and then try to work around this deficiences. Don't you think?
  17. johnfrwhipple

    johnfrwhipple Bathroom Design & Build - North Vancouver, B.C.

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    post(s) deleted by John Whipple
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2014
  18. Freddie

    Freddie New Member

    Messages:
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    Location:
    Ottawa
    Ok, so sounds like cleaning is not a problem really with any of them and they all need it. I will think about adding a nice trim on the tile at entrance to drain to protect grout below tile; at least the exposed grout will then be at the surface between the tile and the trim.

    Care to share your recommendations / suggestions for floor strengthening with the Proline drain?
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