Culligan Medallist Woes

Discussion in 'Water Softener Forum, problems, installation and r' started by ralphwolf, Dec 14, 2010.

  1. ralphwolf

    ralphwolf New Member

    Messages:
    6
    Location:
    Florida
    Hello everyone. I have been lurking this site among many others in a quest to repair my water softener. The softener continues to drain after it cycles through its processes.

    During my expedition, it seems that a seal pack should render my solution. I did replace the o-rings on the brine valve and cleaned up and relubed the main seal (seal pack assy) which looked okay. But, I still have the problem and probably should replace the seals on that assembly.

    Now, my trouble lies in the removal of the seal pack assembly and also the eductor.

    Seal Pack: the first time I took it out I had to call upon the Powers of Grayskull to pull that darn thing out. There must be a trick or tool to remove it. Please share those tips.

    Educator: After taking off the plate, screen and blue restrictor out, I can't seen to pull out the rest of the assembly. It has 4 prong on it but will not budge. I assume there is a trick to removing this too, to which I would enjoy the secrets.

    I assume the trick(s), if its not a special tool, that it has to be stopped in a certain cycle or something but I have not a clue.

    Thanks for any help.
    Last edited: Dec 14, 2010
  2. Akpsdvan

    Akpsdvan In the Trades

    Messages:
    1,480
    Location:
    Alaska
    Sounds like the seal pack will have to be replaced, some times it can be rebuilt , but often it needs to be replaced.

    When I have had to take one out of the valve..
    I remove the valve from the tank, then remove the front control face from the valve body, then remove the clip that holds the plug at the rear of the valve body.
    There is a socket that will just fit in the hole between the 4 little legs and the inside of the hole. Then you can use some thing to pound down on top to the socket, if you do not have a socket that will fit, then a screw driver handle that just fits inside those 4 legs and pound down. it is best if this is done on the corner of a bench or the like with the shaft of the piston sticking down..
    Questions?
  3. ralphwolf

    ralphwolf New Member

    Messages:
    6
    Location:
    Florida
    Ugh! I didn't want to have to do that.

    Its funny how the Culligan manual says "Pull out.." like its some simple task.

    Anyways, to put it back in...reverse the scenario?

    Oh, what about that educator thingy. How do I get that out without destroying it?

    Here's another question? Does anyone know who makes the valve for the Medallist (bought about 2002-3)?
  4. Akpsdvan

    Akpsdvan In the Trades

    Messages:
    1,480
    Location:
    Alaska
    We are not talking about the standard culligan valve with the two legs that attach to the top of the tank?
    Brine piston over the main piston assembly?
    Metal clip in the back of the valve?
    I know that I seen culligan using a fleck 7000 valve.. but not sure what years they started and for what systems they are useing it on.
  5. ralphwolf

    ralphwolf New Member

    Messages:
    6
    Location:
    Florida
    Looks sort of like a 7000. From above it looks like a 2510. Plus, the piston is just a shaft with a rubber plunger...I suppose its Culliganized.

    The part I am referring to is under a metal plate right on top. It is removed by taking out 3 screws. Under that, is a gasket and in the hole is a blue injector looking thing and a screen around it. Under that is a brown piece that has some prongs that come up that hold that screen and injector. Per the Culligan manual, it looks like its should be able to pull straight up but it doesn't.
  6. Akpsdvan

    Akpsdvan In the Trades

    Messages:
    1,480
    Location:
    Alaska
    The culligan valves had the injector parts under a plate with 3 screws.. there is the injector housing that holds both a screen and then a little blue or tan nozzel... that valve at my last count had the metal horse shoe clip in the back that held a plug in place behind the main piston and cage assembly.
    That brown part will pull up, some times it takes a little ................ to get it to move and if one or more of teh prongs gets broke, don't freak.. it will be ok.
  7. ralphwolf

    ralphwolf New Member

    Messages:
    6
    Location:
    Florida
    Well... I changed the rings and everything. All ports seemed clear. But during the brine draw, it was pushing water in. I double checked everything and everything seemed good. After no success, I gave up. <Fast forward 2 months>

    Yesterday, I wanted to give it another try. I did a manual regeneration, nothing happened until the brine draw, pushed water again. Checked everything and tried again, now I get nothing. The motor turns fine, pushes the piston in and out with no problem but I get nothing at all. No regeneration, no rinse...it seems that it definitely has water pressure too. ????

    Still stumped.
  8. ralphwolf

    ralphwolf New Member

    Messages:
    6
    Location:
    Florida
    Update. I have become an expert of taking this thing a part. Anyone hiring a dis-assembler? I would say assembler as soon as it works after I put it back together. :)

    Anyways, the main piston is bad. It broke on the sixth and seventh piece. All washers are intact from my previous purchase and replacement. Two or 3 o-rings will need to be replaced. Anyone happen to have an assembly or a few sections on that piston? I called Culligan and they want to sell the whole kit to me even though everything else I have is new. ???
  9. SemiHandyRon

    SemiHandyRon New Member

    Messages:
    46
    Location:
    Fairfield, OH
    Same thing happened to my Culligan Medalist. I had no confidence with a DIY repair job, and the Culligan guy stuck me $300 to fix it (lamented elsewhere here). No more Culligan for me.
  10. JKERN

    JKERN New Member

    Messages:
    49
    Location:
    Artesia NM
    No company sells just a seal instead of the whole kit when dealers buy them it comes in a kit so that is just something you have to deal with.
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