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estone

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Thanks for the suggestions!

I don't have any brass nipples on the line anywhere. Just PVC. The only brass nipples are for the switch and gauge.

I'll take the elbow off the gauge and screw it in directly.

The short nipple was used for the switch so the switch could be taken off. If I put it up on a longer nipple it would hit the tank when I would take it off. Otherwise the only way to get it off is to unscrew the T from the tank first if the switch needed to be replaced.


I'm glad I put the unions in because I noticed today I have a drip where the tank T is screwed into my tank.

I'm sure I wouldn't be having these problems if I was a professional. However, I've learned alot and saved some $$ in the process.
 

Gary Slusser

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Yeah I thought maybe the switch might hit the tank with the taller nipple.

I thought there was a nipple over by the wall between the PVC and whatever comes through the wall.

I see that you don't have a PR valve on the tee.

You did good for your first time. The tank tee leak can be tough to fix, you'll need to rotate the tee a full turn while holding the elbow on the tank so you don't bust the tank. I've always turned the tank upside down (in its box to protect it from getting scratched) and used 24" pipe wrenches.
 

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Looks like I got the leak stopped on the tank T. It was the 1 1/4" to 1" bushing. The tank is 1 1/4" but my T was 1" so I had to use a bushing to go to 1". Again a galavanized bushing, which I'm starting to despise. Looked online, looks like 1" Brass unions on ****-11.99 plus 6.00 shipping, and wouldn't mind replacing that bushing either except I'm sick and tired of looking at this stuff.:eek: Probably will last 50 years anyway.
 
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