crooked and broken cast iron flange in concrete slab

Discussion in 'Toilet Forum discussions' started by commo, Jan 2, 2010.

  1. commo

    commo New Member

    Messages:
    3
    Location:
    Oklahoma
    Hello all. Need some advice. Removed 30 year old toilet to replace with new one. Old toilet was leaning and leaking and needed to be replaced.

    Pulled toilet (had shims shoved under it to keep it from rocking), pulled up linoleum and found what you see in the pics.
    Cast Iron flange is not level and is broken, concrete is not level and seems to be troweled up toward the flange (think volcano shape).

    It's a small 5x5 bathroom and we're going to make it a DIY job and go ahead and yank and replace the 30 year old tub and shower as well as tile the floor with ceramic tile. So whatever I need to do to replace this flange correctly, please let me know.

    I was thinking of cutting off old flange or drilling out the lead and removing it(?) and replacing with the plastic type that fits down into the iron pipe and has the compression fitting.

    I will also chisel/jack hammer the concrete and level before tiling.

    What would be the best way to repair this flange?

    Thanks!

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  2. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,233
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    flange

    It broke in the first place because the plumber used the elongated slots instead of the two notches for the bolts. That is the sign of a plumber who was not sure of his work and wanted to give himself some "wiggle room". To me, the proper repair is to break that flange off and install a new one the same way. A very simple job for a plumber with the right tools.
  3. commo

    commo New Member

    Messages:
    3
    Location:
    Oklahoma
    Thanks HJ. Is there any other way to do it as a DIY besides calling in a plumber to lead a new one on? I saw some cast iron twist and set flanges at the hardware store??

    Also, as I level out the concrete and fill in the holes around the flange, how close should I pack the mud in around the pipe flange?
  4. MACPLUMB 777

    MACPLUMB 777 TROJAN WORLDWIDE SALES RP

    Messages:
    679
    Location:
    Houston, Texas, United States
    Broken cast iron flange

    BREAK IT OUT AND REPLACE SEND ME A P.M. AND I WILL SEND INSTRUCTIONS

    ON HOW TO BREAK FLANGE !

    THEN INSTALL ONE OF THESE TYPES OF NEW CLOSET FLANGES

    http://instantset.com/closet_rings.htm :D
  5. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    21,802
    Location:
    New England
    If the inside of the pipe is in good shape AND it is 4", you can use an internal set flange, so in that case, you could pack cement right up to the existing pipe. Any of the internal, expanding flanges need a nice smooth, clean surface to seal to. Then, they need to be screwed down into the concrete. If you want to use a new leaded flange, you'd need to leave space for it to fit over the outside.

    Keep in mind that the proper place for the flange is on TOP of the FINISHED floor, not flush on the slab.

    ALso not that it appears the riser is not plumb, and your quick-fix internal mount flange inserted into a pipe would not rest flat on the finished floor, making installation of a new toilet tough, and open it up to breakage since you couldn't anchor it properly. A plumber to install a new leaded flange could compensate for that when installing it (if it isn't too out of whack).
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2010
  6. commo

    commo New Member

    Messages:
    3
    Location:
    Oklahoma
    PM'd you jerrymac!

    jadnashua, yeah that crooked riser worries me too. The flange is actually not set level (leaning even further the same way as the pipe) with the riser either which made it even worse. I'm assuming the plumber was in quantity mode and not quality mode when he was setting the plumbing in this housing tract 30 years ago.
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2010
  7. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,233
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    flange

    A hammer and chisel will remove that flange in about 3 minutes. The inside of the pipe is so corroded that I would not trust any expansion flange to seal to it perfectly, assuming you can get one into it, which is not always the case.
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