Critique my water softener loop: include hose bibb and/or pressure gauge?

[pfjustin]

Hi all,

I'm in the process of adding a whole-house backwash filter and water softener. I currently have a bypass loop which has a passive water filter, which is going to be removed, and am planning out the new installation.

Two things I'm looking at adding are a hose bibb on the water softener loop (to make it easier to drain/service in the future) and a pressure gauge.

Few questions:
* Is this a common setup? I see a few folks doing it (e.g. https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/water-pressure-gauge-installation-location.81628/), but not nearly as often I might expect. Are there reasons not do to this?
* In the below diagram, I'm replacing everything between the two shutoff valves, so I'm thinking I should be able to do this whole thing without shutting off water to the house; does this sound correct?
* If I were to do this, should I put a pressure valve before the filter/softener, or after, or both? I would put it on the 'inside' of the shutoff valve section.
* Would it make more sense to put a hose bibb before or after the softener (or both)?
* Are there any recommendations on hose bibbs (or faucets, or whatever) that could be added here? They all seem like they're designed for exterior use, is there a name or search term I should use for an interior equivalent? I was looking at a 'water heater drain ball valve' which has a horizontal 3/4" MNPT inlet
* For the hose bibb, was gonna do 3/4" CPVC tee > 3/4" stainless steel adapter (female) > bibb; does this sound correct? Any reason to do brass instead of SS?
* For the pressure gauge(s), was gonna do 3/4" CPVC tee > 3/4" brass adapter (female) > 3/4" x 1/4" MIP x FIP brass bushing > pressure gauge; is there an easier/better way to do this from 3/4" CPVC?
* Any concerns with piping CPVC to 'close' to the filter/softener inlet/outlet, and then using a SS adapter to a flex line? Feels like it would make maintenance in the long term much easier.

Thanks in advance for all the help!

- Justin

 

[Reach4]

I would want a hose bib by the softener and filter to be softened water. So if you get a solution tank for some reason, you would fill it with softened water. However if your backwashing filter was not made with a solution tank in mind originally, it is a bit hard to add one later.

Maybe consider a line to a faucet, for mineral drinking water, after the filter and before the softener. Note that you can put a garden hose thread onto a spigot. The spigot(s) by the softener/filter would be "boiler drain valves".

I see that your softener's input is on the right, as it is with most softener valves, as you face the control. The filter input is on the left as you drew it.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[pfjustin]

Perfect - that's a super helpful point. I don't think I'll need a solution tank anytime soon, but it does make sense to have the hose bibb be softened water.

"Boiler drain valve" is the term I was looking for - thank you! Prob gonna stick with after softener rather than set up a mineral line.

Both my backwash filter and the softener are using Fleck 5600 SXT valves (catalytic carbon for the filter), so the inlet is on the right for my scenario.

Thanks for the help!