CR100 with KDF-85

Users who are viewing this thread

Tom Sawyer

In the Trades
Messages
3,625
Reaction score
34
Points
48
Location
Maine
try holding down the next and the minus for 5 seconds or the next and the plus. You can get the manual for a WS1 online and IIRC it programs pretty much the same
 

Akpsdvan

In the Trades
Messages
1,542
Reaction score
15
Points
38
Location
Alaska
Is that to get to the service programing or to unlock the control so that one can get to the service programing?
 

Royerm

Member
Messages
116
Reaction score
1
Points
18
Location
Quebec, Canada
That is the manual I have and read at least 10 times in case I missed something

The greenway uses "NEXT and +" to get to the service programming but you cannot change the parameters
such as Fill/Backwash/Brine etc etc...

My goal was to increase the Backwash time.
Still waiting on a call from Greenway
 

Akpsdvan

In the Trades
Messages
1,542
Reaction score
15
Points
38
Location
Alaska
To unlock
down-next-up-clock
done like one would use a touch tone phone.
That should unlock the programing so that you can change the backwash time
 

ditttohead

Water systems designer, R&D
Messages
6,088
Reaction score
455
Points
83
Location
Ontario California
I try not to comment on systems that I am not sure I can give a good answer to but... many of the Clack valves are not adjustable other than their pre-set parameters, or "hi" and "regular" settings. I am not sure of the Greenway, but I would guess that could be your problem. It may not be adjustable. BTW, I have worked on a few of those units in the field, they are excellent systems. Many of the Clack proprietary valves are programmable. So my answer means nothing. Let me know when you find out from Greenway if the times are fully adjustable. Thanks!
 

Gary Slusser

That's all folks!
Messages
6,921
Reaction score
22
Points
38
Location
Wherever I park the motorhome.
Website
www.qualitywaterassociates.com
I sold hundreds a year for 6.5 years and never saw a Clack valve that didn't allow "adjustments". They were all stock nonproprietary valves.

To get into part of the programing you push in the Next and Up arrow buttons both at the exact same time and hold for 3 or so seconds. The other part is Next and Down arrow done the same way. You push the Next button to go from one field to the next. Having someone locked out was very rare and I could never remember the unlock or locking sequence of what buttons that had to be pushed within a short period of time, so I always had to read the instructions.

Just recently I was on the Clack web site and there are no manuals there now or I missed them.
 

Rjh2o

Member
Messages
80
Reaction score
1
Points
8
Location
Michigan
Changing the backwash time will accomplish nothing to combat "smell" with this system. One of 3 problems is causing the smell issue. Either they did not add the proper amount of KDF (28lbs per 10x54 tank), the chlorine generator is set too low (yes it is adjustable) or there is bacterial growth in the plumbing lines "after" softener. This occurs frequently at sinks that have plastic water lines feeding bathroom and kitchen faucets. You can chlorinate the house as Gary suggested or replace any plastic lines with stainless steel braided water lines. There is a specific sequence entered to access programming.
RJ
 

Akpsdvan

In the Trades
Messages
1,542
Reaction score
15
Points
38
Location
Alaska
How is the chlorine generator adjustable?
I have seen them on the older Fleck that was used by Water right and now the Clack that is in use, have not seen where one can adjust the chlorine.
Maybe I have missed it and if so where is it that one would adjust the chlorine?
 

Royerm

Member
Messages
116
Reaction score
1
Points
18
Location
Quebec, Canada
Changing the backwash time will accomplish nothing to combat "smell" with this system. One of 3 problems is causing the smell issue. Either they did not add the proper amount of KDF (28lbs per 10x54 tank), the chlorine generator is set too low (yes it is adjustable) or there is bacterial growth in the plumbing lines "after" softener. This occurs frequently at sinks that have plastic water lines feeding bathroom and kitchen faucets. You can chlorinate the house as Gary suggested or replace any plastic lines with stainless steel braided water lines. There is a specific sequence entered to access programming.
RJ

Interesting......No plastic water line in my case, I will have to double check the amount of KDF that was added
and I have no idea about the chlorinator adjustment and will chlorinate the house as Gary suggested.

Was busy outside today and I will call them back tomorrow to see what they have to say (greenway)
 

Royerm

Member
Messages
116
Reaction score
1
Points
18
Location
Quebec, Canada
Here's the latest development.....

I'm finally in contact with the Regional guy from Greenway,
which has talk to the distributor that has been in touch with my sales shop.

In short, everyone is protecting his pants.

Anyhow, as stated at beginning of thread, I've mentioned
that sulfur appeared a couple of month after my new installation
and that I was prescribed to add the KDF-85.

Now the main office guy says that it should of not gone on top
as it is heavy and that the back-wash is not getting done efficiently....
His solution is to have it re-bed by the distributor with new media
the proper way. Kind enough to sync the shipping of product so that I'm not out
of softener for too long.......Oh!! at my own expense.

I have not heard yet anything from my salesman and distributor.
Maybe they are setting up something to help me, I will find out today.

OH, by the way ,I had been in touch with the main Office back in July
and it was not a problem to add the KDF back then....

Any comments?????
 

Akpsdvan

In the Trades
Messages
1,542
Reaction score
15
Points
38
Location
Alaska
Yes the KDF is heavy, but after a few back washes the KDF most likely is at the bottom of the media tank on top of the gravel like it should be.

It could be that the chlorine generator is not working, ask them how to test it to make sure that it is making the chlorine at it is drawing brine.
 

Royerm

Member
Messages
116
Reaction score
1
Points
18
Location
Quebec, Canada
Yes the KDF is heavy, but after a few back washes the KDF most likely is at the bottom of the media tank on top of the gravel like it should be.

It could be that the chlorine generator is not working, ask them how to test it to make sure that it is making the chlorine at it is drawing brine.

Just opened it up, and seems that KDF (copper color) is on top, surely doesn't look like any white stuff.
It seems pretty packed up also as I tried to move it a bit with a 3/4 pipe.

cheers...
 

Akpsdvan

In the Trades
Messages
1,542
Reaction score
15
Points
38
Location
Alaska
What is the back wash flow control for your unit?
5gpm? or greater?
It should have moved to the bottom if the water in the back wash is ALL going down the tube to the bottom, but if it for some reason is not going to the bottom because the O ring in the valve that seals it to the distributor is bad then a good deal of water will bypass the tube.
 

Royerm

Member
Messages
116
Reaction score
1
Points
18
Location
Quebec, Canada
What is the back wash flow control for your unit?
Can you elaborate on this one....

5gpm? or greater?
It should have moved to the bottom if the water in the back wash is ALL going down the tube to the bottom, but if it for some reason is not going to the bottom because the O ring in the valve that seals it to the distributor is bad then a good deal of water will bypass the tube.

The unit needs 5-7GPM and I'm told it is set to 7GPM.
Darn I saw the backwash coming out of the 5/8 hose coming out pretty strongly...

Thx
 

MaineWT

New Member
Messages
4
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Oakland, ME
I stumbled across this thread looking for something else and thought I might add my 2 cents as I have had a few customers try to add KDF to a Sanitizer just like you did to no avail. When you pour in the KDF all at once on the top it will act like a plug and ride up and down during backwash and will not typically settle to the bottom. The proper way to add KDF (and it should be 16 pounds in a 10" tank to create a 2" layer) is to poke a bunch of holes down into the CR100 and then pour in about a 1/3 of the KDF, then poke more holes, pour another 1/3, poke more holes and pour the remaining third. Then put the unit into backwash and the KDF will fall to the bottom. In your case I would try to poke as much down into the bed as you can until you see a lot of white or at least a good mix and then put the unit into backwash. I would also confirm the DLFC is a 7GPM and that the numbers face toward you when you remove the clip on the DLFC housing to check the flow rate. Good Luck!!
 

Gary Slusser

That's all folks!
Messages
6,921
Reaction score
22
Points
38
Location
Wherever I park the motorhome.
Website
www.qualitywaterassociates.com
The unit needs 5-7GPM and I'm told it is set to 7GPM.
Darn I saw the backwash coming out of the 5/8 hose coming out pretty strongly...

Thx
Zeolite is heavier than resin and it may have prevented all of the KDF from falling to the bottom of the tank under the Zeolite.

The volume of water going out the drain line doesn't mean all the water is going down the distributor tube and out under the resin/KDF in the bottom of the tank and up through the stuff and out the top of the tank. It could mean that the water is going into the top of the tank and across to the outlet and out the drain line instead of going to the bottom of the dist. tube etc..

What did you find out about the valve being locked or being "adjustable" or not?

I see MaineWT and I were posting at the same time, and he proves my guess of the KDF laying on top the Zeolite.
 
Last edited:

MaineWT

New Member
Messages
4
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Oakland, ME
Not sure about the Greenway version but with the regular Sanitizer using the Clack based valve you can adjust the chlorination, my guess is you should be able to adjust yours as well. After you unlock the valve, hold next and minus simultaneously until the screen changes to "softening", then hit next several times and make your way down the menu until you see "generate chlorine". At that point hold set clock and plus simultaneously for a couple of seconds. From there you should be able to use either the plus or minus button to cycle through low, medium or high.
 

Royerm

Member
Messages
116
Reaction score
1
Points
18
Location
Quebec, Canada
Zeolite is heavier than resin and it may have prevented all of the KDF from falling to the bottom of the tank under the Zeolite.

The volume of water going out the drain line doesn't mean all the water is going down the distributor tube and out under the resin/KDF in the bottom of the tank and up through the stuff and out the top of the tank. It could mean that the water is going into the top of the tank and across to the outlet and out the drain line instead of going to the bottom of the dist. tube etc..

What did you find out about the valve being locked or being "adjustable" or not?

I see MaineWT and I were posting at the same time, and he proves my guess of the KDF laying on top the Zeolite.

I was on the phone for 1.5 hrs and completely forgot about that one....
I should be talking to him again tomorrow and will ask...
I know from him that the Chlorinator is adjustable, he said that they adjust it to MAX
but I was under the impression that it was not thru the control board, anyhow I'm making
a note so that I do not forget......Thx
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks