copper stub ells into shower valve

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & ' started by Didymus21, Mar 26, 2014.

  1. Didymus21

    Didymus21 New Member

    Messages:
    24
    Location:
    Portland, Oregon
    Had extra propex copper stubs. Does this seem like a reasonable use of them? Anyone see a problem with this? My other thought was to solder a propex Fitting to a 90 deg street, or something to that effect.

    Picture is below.
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2014
  2. Didymus21

    Didymus21 New Member

    Messages:
    24
    Location:
    Portland, Oregon
    It'd probably help if I attached the picture.

    IMG_20140326_185213_614.jpg
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2014
  3. SHR

    SHR Member

    Messages:
    96
    Location:
    Minnesota
    Expensive, but a great idea! Those will work good and help your install look great.

    You soldered all of your joints to the rough-in valve so neatly that I can not even see any solder around the joint. Boy, you are good.
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2014
  4. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

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    14,889
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    That works for me! :)
  5. Didymus21

    Didymus21 New Member

    Messages:
    24
    Location:
    Portland, Oregon
    Oh boy, wish I could accept that compliment! I actually haven't soldered anything yet...wanted to make sure it was a sound idea first. Thanks for the feedback.
  6. Gary Swart

    Gary Swart In the Trades

    Messages:
    7,328
    Location:
    Yakima WA
    I realize you had those ells on hand, so good idea to use them. Most of us just use short nipples, threaded adapter, and regular elbows. They aren't pretty, but hidden behind walls so pretty really doesn't count.
  7. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
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    Cave Creek, Arizona
    quote; Most of us just use short nipples, threaded adapter, and regular elbows.

    I guess I am NOT 'most of us', because I would NEVER use a threaded connection when the valve has sweat joint capability. I was going to comment that there might not be enough solder on the joints to have made a good seal, until you stated that they were not soldered yet.
  8. SHR

    SHR Member

    Messages:
    96
    Location:
    Minnesota
    I kinda figured that but could not resist the comment. That should end up being a nice install.

    I also never use threaded adaptors anymore on shower valves with solder connections available. When asked, most people I talk to about using the threaded adaptors say they use them in order to make the valve easier to remove if necessary. But in order to remove the threaded connections you still have to cut the copper...so nothing gained by the adaptors except more potential for leaks. As long as all plastic parts are removed from the rough-in valve it is just a really big fitting.
  9. Gary Swart

    Gary Swart In the Trades

    Messages:
    7,328
    Location:
    Yakima WA
    Not to start a war on this, and I certainly yield to HJ's experience and expertise, but I use the threaded adapters into valve bodies to avoid possible damage to the valve. Now, I'm a DIY and while I have never had a solder joint fail, I do not rate myself anywhere near a professional, and perhaps I'm being overly concerned about this. So, by all means if you are comfortable with soldering the pipe into the valve, do it.
  10. Didymus21

    Didymus21 New Member

    Messages:
    24
    Location:
    Portland, Oregon
    I do have one concern. The ells have a decent amount of play in the valve, while the vertical shower head portion does not. Do I need to be concerned about that? I know soldering will fill the gaps and tighten the joint, but would you consider that a weakened joint?

    I think I cut the ells too short, and due to the bend, I'm entering the smaller diameter part of the stub. I'd really appreciate feedback on this.

    If need be, I wouldn't hesitate to scrap them and re-do it.
    Last edited: Mar 27, 2014
  11. DaveHo

    DaveHo New Member

    Messages:
    53
    Location:
    SE PA
    That's the exact configuration I used for my shower valves. I didn't trim the Propex ells & don't recall them feeling loose in the rough in body. They've been in service for more than a year now. No issues. You using propane or MAPP? I have a MAPP torch & it still took a bit of time to get the valve body hot enough to sweat properly. I don't think I'd try it with propane.
  12. Didymus21

    Didymus21 New Member

    Messages:
    24
    Location:
    Portland, Oregon
    [video=youtube;sWQTHaHuods]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sWQTHaHuods&feature=youtube_gdata_player[/video]

    Here's a video showing what I mean.
  13. BobL43

    BobL43 DIY Senior Member

    Messages:
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    Location:
    Long Island, NY
    Can't view it, as it seems to be in your "private" Youtube folder
  14. Didymus21

    Didymus21 New Member

    Messages:
    24
    Location:
    Portland, Oregon
    Should be fixed, sorry.
  15. DaveHo

    DaveHo New Member

    Messages:
    53
    Location:
    SE PA
    That looks extremely loose. Do you still have the pieces you cut off? How much play do those have? How much play in the shower head pipe?
  16. Didymus21

    Didymus21 New Member

    Messages:
    24
    Location:
    Portland, Oregon
    I do still have the pieces I cut off and when inserted they don't have nearly as much play. The shower head pipe has little to none.

    I think I probably blew it on those and will need to cut new pipe. I may be able to reuse them for a fixture if there is enough tip to still go through some drywall. Oh well, lesson learned.
  17. BobL43

    BobL43 DIY Senior Member

    Messages:
    1,786
    Location:
    Long Island, NY
    yup, live and learn; we all do it one time or another. repeat, repeat.............
  18. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    21,892
    Location:
    New England
    You might try the v-shaped inside pipe shaping bit on most pipe cutters...it may reform the end enough to give you a tighter fit.
  19. Didymus21

    Didymus21 New Member

    Messages:
    24
    Location:
    Portland, Oregon
    Good suggestion, I tried and it didn't make much of a difference. I ended up just buying two street 90's and a male fitting that will couple the 90's with my propex lines. Much better joint!
  20. yngwie_69

    yngwie_69 New Member

    Messages:
    61
    Location:
    Prince Rupert, BC
    that is loose, but your joints look pro, i dont think you will ever have a problem, it will def last till next reno. If u cleaned flux ur good. but all pipe that is bend like that thins the copper faster cause of streching
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