Copper pipe problems

[flyboy718]

I am trying to install my new copper pipe and fittings for my new shower fixture. I had everything all joined together nice and pretty with 90* els, 1/2" couplings I was proud of myself, until I thought that I sweated everything real good. Went to turn the water on and it FREAKIN LEAKS! So I had to tear out all of that hard work. I am going back to Lowe's tomorrow to either buy more pipe and fittings and do it all over again or find something else to use...which the Lowe's guy mentioned something about the flexible copper pipe, could I use that for my shower?!

Thankyou,

Jason

 

[Dunbar Plumbing]

Are you,

'
Sanding the pipe you are joining
Wire brushing the inside of fittings
Applying flux on both the cleaned pipe and fittings
Using lead free solder
Soldering with no water in the piping
Applying the proper amount of heat to each joint
Overheating the pipe joint
Using water soluble flux
Making sure the solder is travelling completely around fitting
Soldering in a extreme cold area, then wiping with a rag
Using clean, not old flux
Cooling the joints off with water immediately

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Cass]

Now where did that baby go?

This guy must have scared the child away.

I thought torture was against code.

 

[flyboy718]

I am doing most of that

I am doing most of that, I don't cool the joints off immediatly with water, everything else is right...I don't know, I don't care, I just want to get my valve and pipe in so that I can continue with my shower building. Is there a substitute for copper pipe that I could use instead as mentioned in my previous post! the guy at lowes mentinoned flexible copper pipe? Or any kind of water carring pipe round/sqare I don't care.

 

[Cass]

You are doing something wrong. If you weren't you wouldn't have any leaks.

Try this.
Be sure the cartradge is out of the valve and the water is out of all the pipe that needs to be soldered.

Reheat the fittings and hit the joints with the flux brush, with flux on it, a few times, back and front all around, then heat the fitting again a little and touch the solder to the top of the joint, melt about 1/4-1/2" of solder.

Redo all the joints like this and it should work. You may need a few acid brushes as they tend to burn when you do this. Flexable copper doesn't help with soldering it will only eliminate some of the joints you have to solder.

 

[Dunbar Plumbing]

Now where did that baby go?

This guy must have scared the child away.

I thought torture was against code.

I gotta have more cow bell!


Cow Bell

 

[flyboy718]

Flexible copper

Cass,

But I can use flexible copper for my shower pipes correct...will just have fewer joints to solder?


Also on threaded joints, pipe compound w/ teflon or just teflon tape?

 

[Cass]

Yes you can

 

[Bob NH]

I have had good luck with the Oatey No. 95 tinning flux applied to both the pipe and fittings.

Whenever I have to solder to an adapter, I try to solder the straight piece to the adapter before threading it in. The next joint is usually farther away from the big heat sink.

 

[Gary Swart]

I think Rugged's well intended list mixed some do's with some don'ts. You should avoid overheating, soldering in extreme cold and wiping with a rag, and cooling the joint with water (either internally or externally). You have to be doing something wrong if you're getting leaks on sweat joints. The most likely would be having water (any) in the pipe, not fluxing, not heating the joint to the point where the heated joint melts the solder, or moving the joint before it cools. Of course, any of the other factors listed could give you problems too, but these are the most likely.

 

[flyboy718]

Problem Solved

Solved my problem...I just went to Home Depot and got two 5/8" X 1/2" tube w/insert MIP Connector to attach to my 1/2" copper pipe and then run CPVC up to my shower valve and then on up to my shower head. PROBLEM SOLVED.

 

[flyboy718]

CPVC For My Shower Valve

Is it acceptable to use CPVC with compression fittings at my 1/2" copper hot and cold pipes and run CPVC up to my shower valve and then up to my shower head. Will I have to worry about leaks? Will this hold up for years?

 

[Dunbar Plumbing]

Nope, no compression fittings behind the wall. I would hire a licensed plumber to take care of your problem. It also states on that shower valve NOT to use CPVC as it can cause problems with the ID of the pipe causing pressure to go both directions. If it is shower only, that may not be an issue. If it is a tub and shower, then you'll have to change it back to copper if water emits from the tub spout and shower at the same time.

Why didn't you take the advice of knowing how to solder copper piping? Answering back "doing most of that" wasn't exactly an educated reply on the matter at hand.

GOOD LUCK

 

[flyboy718]

Ok...Ok...how much will it cost approximately for a plumber to come out and run my copper pipe for me if I supply all the material?

 

[Cass]

Call a plumber and ask. Prices will vary depending on what part of the country your from.

 

[hj]

leaks

You also should not use CPVC for the shower riser, if you read the instructions with the valve, they usually have that warning.

 

[Gary Swart]

My advise is to go back to square #1 and review your soldering techniques. Sweating joints is not that difficult, but you do have to follow the rules as previously outlined. I wonder if perhaps you have been using your torch to melt the solder rather than heating the joint until it is hot enough to make the solder melt and flow? Soft copper and CPVC are not answers to your problems.

 

[BobSmith]

My 2 cents

Flyboy,

Gary is correct, this isn't that difficult. I'm an accountant by training and a software analyst by profession. I have soldered numerous fittings over the years (full bath & kitchen remodels) and if I can do it, you can. Don't give up, but most important, don't take shortcuts.

Matt

 

[SteveW]

I'll chime in here and also support Gary's suggestion. I know from personal experience just how frustrating it is to think you're doing everything right, only to find out you have several leaking joints when you turn the water back on!

As others have said, however, the only way that can happen is if there's a problem with your technique. In my case, I was not aware that even a few drops of water could "spoil" a joint.

Also, I was very diligent about using a wire brush to clean fittings/pipe, but didn't think to use a clean rag to wipe off the dust the cleaning process generated. I think that may have contributed to some bad joints.

Something not mentioned in this thread that I learned recently is that it's important NOT to solder if you are working on a "closed" system -- heated air/steam needs a place to vent when soldering, or else sure as shootin' it'll come out of one of your joints. Make sure that a valve somewhere is open to the atmosphere.

Lastly, pay close attention to Gary's comment about heating the fitting, not the pipe -- I did that wrong, too, in the past. It's a wonder any of my soldered joints worked!

Get in there and show that copper who's boss!

 

[JK60]

I have had good luck with the Oatey No. 95 tinning flux applied to both the pipe and fittings.

Bob - Just curious, are you are talking about the regular Oatey #95 flux or the water soluble 2095 flux?

Thanks,

Jerry