Converting A laundry closet to a wet room

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ShowerDude

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our next project will see this cracked oatey basin replaced with an upgraded pan system, topical waterproofiing upturned at base/corners and a caplilary break.......


what methods and materials?


there is currently a well built truss system with 3/4" exp 1 ply as the subfloor......topped with likely luan and linoleaum or cheese vinyl.....that will be demo'd of course..... so then we build up from subfloor and only have 3/4 -7/8 " to time out........not likely....to time out with a new 3/4 hardwood while we install 2x2 porcelain mosaics...



a real challenge where we need to choose wisely our material approach........no mud beds no room for it.



and say 300 # of new laundry machines vibrating away on top of the install.........


whats smart? a curb? threshold?
 
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JohnfrWhipple

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Yeah what Terry said.

I did a very similar closet two years back Erik. Did you not view all those pictures back then?

The ACO job with the Ardex 8+9 waterproofing.

We had a 1.5" build up to work with on that job.

On the current job the tile man who was hired to the laundry room made a 4" curb in front and then stacked the appliance on 4" pavers. This way the appliance where a little higher and a little safer.

I think your challenge will be vibration and what the load capacity of the trusses are. I would think they are designed for L/360 and not a stitch more. maybe you could reframe the space and allow for a stronger floor.
 

ShowerDude

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Yeah what Terry said.

I did a very similar closet two years back Erik. Did you not view all those pictures back then?

The ACO job with the Ardex 8+9 waterproofing.

We had a 1.5" build up to work with on that job.

On the current job the tile man who was hired to the laundry room made a 4" curb in front and then stacked the appliance on 4" pavers. This way the appliance where a little higher and a little safer.

I think your challenge will be vibration and what the load capacity of the trusses are. I would think they are designed for L/360 and not a stitch more. maybe you could reframe the space and allow for a stronger floor.

finished basement w/drop ceiling below...

im now thinking of a load point system tied into subfloor/joist to land the washers feet on?


the dryer is light in comparison....

the preform shower trays have a point load of 48 psi ?

like the prova pans..... and would be my lowest profile option.......

no I missed that ost of your similar project....link me to the pics

really need a solid plan bere
 

hj

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quote; I did a very similar closet two years back Erik. Did you not view all those pictures back then?

Such arrogance. Do you really think someone would remember a posting from 2 years previous?
 

JohnfrWhipple

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quote; I did a very similar closet two years back Erik. Did you not view all those pictures back then?

Such arrogance. Do you really think someone would remember a posting from 2 years previous?

Wow HJ. I think you need to get laid. Your such a grump these past few months.

Erik and I chat all the time. He and I have shared tons of info privately. So yes I did think he might have remembered the pictures I shared since they where the only ones regarding a laundry closet.

Sorry if that sounds arrogant. You sound like a grumpy _______.

Oh yeah. You really need to quote your posts better HJ. After all this time have you not notice the little blue button that says Reply? This shows the quote better. lol Now that was just me being a Duche Bag - but hey you took the gloves off first. :)

I still love ya. We should have a big hug!
 
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ShowerDude

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now who can help me figure this tricky situation out??

some type of spring loaded foot supports fort the washer?? essentialy float the machine on 4 load points that wont stress the tile and pan install????

sounds crazy but may be an option.???

is there a manual or rulebook for this application??

must I go cowboy ????

A 4" curb is out......
 

JohnfrWhipple

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Better check with the Cowboy Association for that install Erik.

These guys can handle the job

wcF7d4egeFpTdvme.jpg


LOL

I don't think I would spring load the machine. Just make sure that anything you do is designed for flexibilty I think. It is not a shower pan so I would think setting the pan flat and making some kind of baby dam of sorts would work.

The hard part is placing the machine and levelling it. Most have fixed back legs and adjustable fronts.

Maybe some Noble CIS as the pan liner set with Mapei KeraBond/Keralastic? Bust out the Grani Rapid maybe.

I think Custom has crack isolation thin-set.

That would be the trail I follow partner! lol
 

ShowerDude

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holy chippendales..... your getting HJ excited and all riled up.....





im done overthinking the closet job... im gonna just verify deflection with truss mfg.

beef up with a second layer 3/4 maybe some blocks to distribute washer load points.

flexbond mortars and some TS.......
 

Jadnashua

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Most trusses are designed for L/480 unless the design specs call for stone or some other feature that may need more, but the only way to know for sure it so look up the specs.

My front loading WM weighs something over 200#, and I've not noticed it moving around. Not all are created equal. The foot pads are maybe slightly over 1sqin, so it's still a significant load that could be spread out easily.
 

hj

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When I "quote" I do NOT want to repeat the whole thing, just a selected portion, so THAT is why I do it the way I do. Redshoe, the washer is already supported at four points, they are called the "feet", and whether they are springs or solid posts, the weight on the floor is exactly the same.
 

JohnfrWhipple

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.....
beef up with a second layer 3/4 .......

From the under side no doubt? Maybe sneak in a lowered recess for the drain and use a 1.5" Nobleflex Flashing.

A little Birdie told me that Ardex and Noble are chatting about a system! that is awesome news. I have a meeting with their top tech in two days.

Going to get a training session on the new German water drainage system. This is exciting news.....

I would most likely scab on some plywood to reinforce those trusses. I had those %^(*&ing plates. They are cheap cheap cheap. I would most likely cross block the bays you have to and if possible extend the blocking end to end.

is the entire area open.

Just for fun you should write Schluter, Ardex, Custom, Mapei and Noble and see what they suggest. I would bet that few of these companies send you any info... But none the same a fun exercise... For the greater good of higher education.
 

ShowerDude

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When I "quote" I do NOT want to repeat the whole thing, just a selected portion, so THAT is why I do it the way I do. Redshoe, the washer is already supported at four points, they are called the "feet", and whether they are springs or solid posts, the weight on the floor is exactly the same.


thanks HJ.

exactly it is 4 point loads


that will be vibrating away on 2x2 mosaics ......which when full of wet clothes and water is a lot
of weight (on a floor that currently has vinyl on it for a reason.)

deflection.

as this floor is
not spec'd for tile. (yet) so a little blocking and subfloor work is due....



John ,

ill pass on writing letters. continue to travel the path of the cowboy.

Its all a sham a scam and a good dose of fear tactics to sell products.
 

JohnfrWhipple

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Erik I suggested you contact these manufactures so you can see that there is no "PROPER" way of doing it. Once you find this out you will need to build it the best way you see fit.



This is the job I shared a couple years back. The drain is of course an ACO.

You might want to consider the flange ACO drain and tie your CIS into it with some NobleSealant 150.

See the Schluter Profiles? The where installed wrong way round to act as baby dam.

whipple-04.jpg


SDE-g-Hawaii-M-1-b.jpg


This Aco drain from Europe using the same principles to contain the water.

Good luck Amigo - I have no doubt you will ace this install.
 
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Koa

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Maybe it's just the blurry photo that doesn't show the cut line but how did you slope that front right hand tile in three directions?
 

JohnfrWhipple

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The front two tiles have a second cut line. These where kept tight to fool the eye. If you look at the short end of the ACO Linear drain there is a cut running from the lower right corner straight down. The tile was tipped of course so the tile is higher on each end than it is in the middle.

A very common practice for setting tile in Australia and Europe. Not so much here in North America. Most setters no understanding how a tile can be set in opposite directions by cheating heights.
 

Jadnashua

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If you have a catastrophe like a drain hose or supply hose or coupling fail, unless the room is built like a shower with a curb and walls to contain the spray, you'll likely overload the water containment. The pumped output of a WM can be fierce, and a top loader could have 50 gallons in it through more than one cycle. So, with that in mind, one might rethink what they want to do. The trend is to put the washer/dryer up in the bedroom areas so that you don't have to carry the laundry up and down stairs...seems reasonable, except for the potential problems of finished spaces. There's some good reason to leave them in the basement. But, convenience often trumps that if you have the money. Just like I wouldn't consider putting a water heater in an attic, I would think twice about where I'd put a washer/dryer.
 

ShowerDude

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John the ACO
closet is nice.... this ones a basic budget project... the $ going into the subfloor and waterproofing...

the joke is this : NO curb or threshold can save this closet.

The Oatey trey wont do it either.

My smart clients get that and want what they want. A better looking tiled closet with a safety measure of waterproofing for spills and such.

ive done my due dillegence. tech specs, deflection etc.....

the real world,? different than training camp......
 
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