Control Box or Pump

Discussion in 'Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog' started by janverdood, Jul 26, 2012.

  1. janverdood

    janverdood New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Location:
    Maricopa, Arizona
    I will try to complete as much as I can. I am not a well specialist but I did once change a motor and I replaced a float switch ...


    Type of pump?
    Submersible YES
    Three wire (control box)YES

    Size of Pump?
    Motor Horsepower?idk
    Pump Model # idk
    Date Pump Installed 2006

    Pumping from?

    Water Well
    Depth of well idk


    Well Recovery Rate_______gpm
    Well Casing Diameter_______â€
    Rock Well__________ Sand Well__________ Other______________
    Date Well Drilled 2006

    Well Casing Material
    Steel

    Pressure Tank?
    I have ued the well for a few years, but there was no pressure tank visible. But there should be one to make it work. But there was a problem with the pressure so they installed an above ground pressure tank (small one)
    Visible one: Water Xtrol (blue, cylinder shaped, 1 foot by 1 foot)
    Air charge in top of tank, with pump off and water drained 35PSI

    Pressure Switch Setting?
    On 30, off 50 YES


    Pump Control Method?
    no clue
    Cycle Stop Valve model #_________
    Variable speed control #__________
    Pump Start Relay (sprinkler timer, no tank)__________
    Manually turned on and off____________

    Pump Protection
    Cycle Sensor_________
    Pumptec YES (no load pump protection, rectangular box)
    Low pressure cutoff switch (lever on side)__________
    Other_______________

    Filters or Softeners YES inside house
    Before or after pressure tank AFTER visible one
    Type of filter salt

    Water Used For?
    House Use YES Number of baths 3 Number of People 3
    Irrigation with timers YES



    Problems Experienced
    No Water CORRECTEMUNDO


    No Sounds YES
    Pressure gauge reading 0 psi
    Pressure in visible water pressure tank 35PSI

    Do you have, and know how to use
    an Ampmeter and Voltmeter YES, a little bit

    Describe Problem
    Schematics:
    Deep well brings water in huge underground holding tank with float switch. Water goes from holding tank to house.

    Troubleshooting:
    Holding tank water low.
    Float switch in holding tank is in the "ON" position. (straight down)
    Pump that (boost) brings water to house is on, but since there is no water no water reaches house.
    Pressure reading is 0.
    Pressure in pressure tank is 35 PSI.
    Overload box is NOT tripped.
    Pressure switch receives electricity.
    Pressure switch sends electricity.
    Pump in deep well does not turn on.
    No sound in control box. (no humming)
    Opened control box, the start capacitor was totally corroded.
    Tested both capacitors (start and run) and the run one was working (not corroded), the corroded start one was not working (infinite ohms).
    Bought a new start 10M Farrat start capacitor, installed it just now. But nothing yet.
    Tested ACV on L1 and L2. No current at all, nothing.

    I think that either some wires inside the control box are bad and need to be replaced OR the control box itself has gone bad. Hopefully it is not the pump in the deep well $$$$$$$$ :-(

    I am stuck now, do I check all the wires with a volt meter inside the box or do I order a new control box (Franklin)?
    Or do you think it might be something else?
    I am out of water for 72 hours now, all help would greatly be appreciated. Thanks!!
  2. valveman

    valveman Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    4,517
    Location:
    Lubbock, Texas
    I would never pull the pump until I had tried a control box that I new was good. If that isn't the problem then you are probably correct about a broken wire, or it could be the overload in the motor has failed to reset itself.
  3. janverdood

    janverdood New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Location:
    Maricopa, Arizona
    On some wires, the insulation has some cracks and the wire is showing.
    How would you proceed from here? Would you take every wire out of the box an test them with a volt meter or would you buy a new control box and install that first?
    If L1 and L2 do not get any current would that mostly suggest that the box is bad or something else?
    Thank you for your reply and help.

    I also should also mention that the control box is Franklin Electric model 2823008110. This is a "special" model with overload protectors in the box because the motor doesn't have one.
    http://tinyurl.com/d6xg275
    Last edited: Jul 27, 2012
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