Confirmation of plumbing layout needed

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mahuska

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I realty appreciate the constructive criticism. I thought about what everyone has said and went back to my basic books and made a new plan. I think this addresses the issues raised. Its a bit weird but I tried to get the vent to exit at vertical. This time I also drew in the toilet DWV. Before the start of all of this the main stack was 4 inch cast iron turned and went horizontally under the toilet so they just put a tee on its back for connecting the toilet. the fitting were very corroded and thin on the bottom especially under the toilet. also it was only 13 inches Center to Center main stack to where the toilet needs to feed into that pipe. I rebuilt it the way it was made before and realized that was not a good idea so i rebuilt it in the only way I thought it could fit and work. But now after listening to the pointer on what not to do which has lead me to what is in the drawing now.
plan 5.1.jpgplan 5.2.jpgplan 5.3.jpgplan 5.4.jpgplan 5.5.jpg
 
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mahuska

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No its not, the shower is minimum you can be, two pipe diameters from weir to vent then the vent goes up to 42 inches above floor level before turning horizontal connect into the roof vent..
 

Tom Sawyer

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This is getting too hard to follow. No plumber would install anything you have drawn thus far like that. What is your trap to vent distance on the tub?
 

mahuska

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36 inches for the tub. I don't want to install this crazy thing this way either but I don't see an alternative that satisfies minimum branch arm length, allows vents to exit vertically and allow me fit the floor plan
 

Tom Sawyer

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Without being there its real hard to get a handle on things. I'm sure there is a "right way" to do this but again, not being able to actually see the framing and locations makes it difficult. That's why we get the big bucks to do what we do LOL
 

mahuska

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I understand and appreciate those working as professionals and the time and effort is represented by being a licensed plumbing professional.
Here a little context for where I'm at, I live in a small town(<9600) that is 30 miles away from other city's and an hour from a city over 40,000. Iowa has had building codes for a long time but it was up to the municipality to enforce them and that meant for a long time only larger communities even had officialy worried about inspectors and licensing of professionals. About 2-3 years ago Iowa made a couple of changes, they rolled out regulations the required all tradesmen to be licensed and that trades the generally require knowledge of building codes have to pass the appropriate trade exams. The state took on inspection and enforcement of electrical work if the local city did not have a code enforcement and that is done through the state fire marshal. There was no similar action implemented for plumbing. Our city has no inspection not that that is a good thing. All of the tradesmen I have worked with understand the importance of the codes but without enforcement there is not a feedback loop nor the necessity to continually refine your craft. I worked as a house builder and contractor for many years and have a group of plumbers that I worked with and around and I have a sense of who is good and who is so-so and i have run a couple of arrangement for this particular plan by a couple of them and one fellow though the original way would be OK (one that i have not show to this forum) but after I realize the it formed an S-trap. Another comment from a plumbing professional was "tubs don't need vents, they have one built in". So you might understand the environment a little more but with that said I know a guy who does a lot of commercial work maybe he can help. I was just trying to wrap this up because my wife is get "impatient" with me and I am about three months behind.
 
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Terry

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Tom Sawyer

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Tubs don't need traps because they are self vented? I hope that was just a mis-quote and he ment to say toilets don't need vents because they are a full siphoning fixture. Anyhoo......... I think your best bet would be to find a local plumber that comes recommendd and pay him to do the rough in.
 

Terry

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I was just talking about this thread last night.

When I'm on site, and can "see" everything, it takes me about 15 minutes to come up with a layout.
Here, even though you have amazing drawings, I can't see enough for that.
On site, I may see a wall off to a side that allows dropping things through without all the bends that you have shown.
If the plumbing were to come from the other side of the wall below, it would be easier.
A lav can wet vent over a tub or shower. You get 42" on the trap arm for the tub and 42" for the lav vent.
Put the wet vent portion between those two and you can spread them 84"
A shower trap arm, or 2" trap arm can be 60" long. Sometimes I need that length when I'm fitting things in.
 

mahuska

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Tom - Unfortunately that was not a misquote, he even said that this is the way he had just done his house. I even know that was not right.

Terry - Thanks for the info. Sorry about not communicating this in an understandable way. Here are some other views for context. Blue is basement walls, Green is first floor, and white/orange second floor walls.
Maple St  House ver.jpgplan view.jpg

Is this what you mean about the tub and lav?
6.6.jpg

6.8.jpg

Is the toilet drain doing the 180 long sweep bend crazy? I came up with this design because the 4 in cast iron is the main stack and and it turned flat original under this original location for the toilet they had laid a cast tee on its back to connect the toilet. There was/is nothing upstream to wash any solids down that were high in the tee although we had never had a problem and amazingly there was no build-up when I took it out but the bottom of the tee was very thin. arranging it this way allows the solids to reach the vented section before continuing down. The alternative I see to this is going downstairs opening up the wall (plaster) at a bell about 2-3 feet down using a Fernco and street Wye, bring the vent straight up over and connect back up to the roof opening, Then connect the toilet to the to the other leg of the wye using a 45 then up, 1/4 bend, over, then closet flange. 6.7.jpg
 
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