Clothes Washer - new drain - suds overflow

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & ' started by renman, Jun 29, 2011.

  1. renman

    renman New Member

    Messages:
    5
    We recently had the washer moved and a new 2" drain installed, but now we seem to be getting Suds overflow.

    Break down:
    Tapped into the main 3" a exit of house to sept tank i.e. right at the cast iron joint to PCV. run to sept tank about 10ft.
    Distance from main to washer is 7ft, pitch was set at 1/4 in per foot, yes there is a 2" check valve, flapper type.
    P trap at washer with 8 inch stack pipe.
    Further FYI: top of stack pipe is about 12"~14" above main leaving house. We are not using any more/less soap then we have been, stillsame MFG.
    Old system on other side of room is 1 1/2 copper with about a 20~24" stack pipe - never had this problem drains into other house sept sys. 3" copper, run to tank is about 30~40ft

    I am wondering is stack pipe is not "long enough"? but extending would be a propential issue

    Ideas?
    Thanks
    bill
  2. johnjh2o1

    johnjh2o1 Plumbing Contractor for 49 years

    Messages:
    1,142
    Location:
    South*East
    Did you vent the new drain and what is the reason for the check valve?

    John
  3. renman

    renman New Member

    Messages:
    5
    John, the 2" ties it at the very end of the entire house out to the sept tank.
    The house is a "raised ranch" i.e the washer is in the lower level.

    So IF by chance the main out to the tank clogged and backed up, we need the check valve to stop flow into the washer which is now the "lowest point"

    Vented - well no seperate vent perse, its open like most other washer drains I have seen, the venting would come from the 3" main etc.

    Doesn't seem much different then the original copper (other side of room) except:
    1.) The copper goes to a lower point then the washer & 1 1/2 vs 2 pvc
    2.) The stack on the old copper is say 20~24 inch high
    Overall a more ideal situation and it indicates why when they built the house they put it there and not where it is now (which is where they had intended since I found the markings on inside of the wall)
    3.) It is not feasible to cut the cement slab and run over to the copper side

    Bill
  4. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    14,783
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    The 2" washer p-trap needs a vent within five feet.

    I like to see the 2" standpipe be 18" or more.
    Last edited: Jun 29, 2011
  5. DonL

    DonL Jack of all trades

    Messages:
    3,812
    Location:
    Houston, TX
    Yes, What Terry said, That would probable cure your problem.

    Enjoy Terry's forums and make a donation... (sorry Terry but you deserve it...I did not mean to advertize)


    Enjoy your day.


    DonL
  6. renman

    renman New Member

    Messages:
    5
    Thanks Terry,

    Ok attached are the two pic's
    #1 is 3" main with 2" coming off
    #2 is the 2" coming through wall directly behind washer. Note the "Tape joint"
    Last night I got a 2" coupler and another 10" of pipe to try and extend the stack to about 18" I didn't glue it just used duct tape as a temp
    washdrain1.jpg washdrain2.jpg

    Bill
  7. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    14,783
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    Add a vent downstream of the p-trap and get rid of the check valve.

    You can use an AAV if you can't go through the ceiling.
  8. renman

    renman New Member

    Messages:
    5
    Thanks, I thought about a AAV, but figured it wouldn't need it since normally the pipe end is open.

    Can't risk getting rid of the check valve, that 3" main comes from the upstairs, 2 toilets, 1 shower, 1 tub/shower, kitchen...
    That could be just an incredible mess in the worst case senario.... I can take the water.. the other stuff that sometimes comes with it..not so much.

    Thanks
    Bill
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