Closet Flange on Slab - ack!

[LesP]

Hi again,

My basement bathroom has a toilet sitting in an alcove that is 28" wide and 47" deep. In this picture, the toilet has been pulled off the flange and turned a quarter turn. The drain is under the plunger...

A few challenges:
- the flange is set at 14" from the finished wall instead of the current 12" standard
- there is only 21" of clearance in front of the toilet which does not meet the current UPC code of 24"

Could I replace the flange and turn the toilet 90 degrees (as shown in the picture)? That would only give me 14" to the wall on the right (instead of the code requirement of 15") but I figure being off by 1" is better than being off by 3".

If I do this, the toilet wouldn't be centered in the 47" space, but I'm not sure if that really matters. Any suggestions on creative ways to handle such a situation?

Also, how do I replace the flange when there is no sign of where it ends and the cast iron begins?

Thanks in advance and Happy Thanksgiving to you all!

 

[CountryBumkin]

Perhaps something like this would work. They fit inside the pipe. (note, I'm not a plumber).

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

Note: best solution in this post may be at the end of the post.

You can break up the concrete, and put the flange where you like. That would look best.

Without breaking concrete, if you are just looking for comfortable seating that meets code, you could rotate the toilet 45 degrees. This is a regular corner toilet.
With your spacing, you might fit a regular toilet that is not wide.

With what you propose, you can gain a bit, maybe 1/4 inch or more, with the clearances on the holes.

In reply #3 in https://terrylove.com/forums/index....rance-with-14-unifit-and-offset-flange.66596/ I show how I made my own holes in a Toto Unifit adapter to match my rough-in that was between 12 and 14. I ended up using the 12 inch adapter that gets included with the toilet. Maybe you could figure out how to mount the Unifit so its output hole left side matches the left side of your closet flange hole.

A repair ring could let you mount closet bolts where you like.

Also, how do I replace the flange when there is no sign of where it ends and the cast iron begins?
A magnet is attracted to cast iron. The flange part may be brass. The cast iron may come up to the top.

And finally, and maybe best, Terry has pointed out that the Caroma 270 has an output that rotates. I think the rotation is centered 11 inches from the back wall, so rotating can give 10 or 12 inch rough. If I understand correctly, it can also rotate to give you a 1 inch offset to left or right along with an 11 inch rough in. So there is your inch!


See post #10 on https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/can-unifit-let-me-move-toilet-a-3-to-the-right.53209/

http://www.caromausa.com/products/index/cu_products/109.php
http://www.caromausa.com/database/files/library/Installation_Instruction__989900_Caroma_Caravlle_1_PC_20140729.pdf

 

[Stuff]

You also might be able to rebuild the right wall to gain an inch. Instead of using 2x4 use 2x3 or flip 2x4's on their side. Though from the back wall I see one on its side already so definitely check first.

 

[FullySprinklered]

Don't know if that's the ugliest toilet flange I've ever seen, but it's definitely a contender.
Tearing it up would be a lot of work. If you could get one of the modern push-in fittings to work, and the slots would let you rotate the toilet to the position you want, I'd try that first.
Are the existing bolts sticking up in good shape?

 

[Erico]

Hi again,

My basement bathroom has a toilet sitting in an alcove that is 28" wide and 47" deep. In this picture, the toilet has been pulled off the flange and turned a quarter turn. The drain is under the plunger...
View attachment 37034

A few challenges:
- the flange is set at 14" from the finished wall instead of the current 12" standard
- there is only 21" of clearance in front of the toilet which does not meet the current UPC code of 24"

Could I replace the flange and turn the toilet 90 degrees (as shown in the picture)? That would only give me 14" to the wall on the right (instead of the code requirement of 15") but I figure being off by 1" is better than being off by 3".

If I do this, the toilet wouldn't be centered in the 47" space, but I'm not sure if that really matters. Any suggestions on creative ways to handle such a situation?

Also, how do I replace the flange when there is no sign of where it ends and the cast iron begins?

View attachment 37035

Thanks in advance and Happy Thanksgiving to you all!

Meh, I wouldn't worry about 1" inch or 3" inches either way. But I'm in chicago and none of these old vintage bathrooms meet any current code regarding clearances.

15 inches either side of the toilet? What's that? I don't think I could live without a pedestal sink to rest my elbow on while reading a magazine.

We built a new bathroom in a 4 by 8 closet. Do I have 24 inches clearance in front of the toilet? No. but it's very comfortable and I was able to install a kick ass bathroom where one didn't exist. Pound for pound the best money I ever spent on the house.

Use a push tight flange and be done with it. Get a toilet that accommodates a 14 inch rough in if the extra space behind the tank bugs you. When we added our bath we did it as a joint project with the downstairs neighbor and tied in to her existing waste stack entrance. As such, the fittings caused her rough in to be about 14 inches. It drove her nuts until we changed out the toilet for a Toto with adjustable rough in.