Clean-Out Location

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & ' started by KULTULZ, Nov 2, 2009.

  1. KULTULZ

    KULTULZ Jack of all trades, Master of none

    Messages:
    85
    Location:
    ROCKVILLE, MD
    I have a 3" waste stack in a water wall between the kitchen and bathroom. I have decided to cabinet the kitchen wall that the clean-out covers points to.


    If I put an access cover into that one cabinet floor (the actual cabinet could be stripped to allow access (24D" X 24"W base cabinet), would it be accessible by a plumber in the future to access the clean-out? I think I am stretching code interpretation here a little.

    This is a condo and to open the concrete floor to redesign the waste would be a major problem.
    Last edited: Nov 2, 2009
  2. It's been done before, in new buildings that had to pass inspection.

    I'm rebuilding a kitchen with two cleanouts on the water wall, each about 6" off the floor.
    How high is your cleanout above the floor?

    I'm putting drawers in the base cabinets. Removing the drawers is easy as pie.
    I'm also removing the base floor made of MDF or particleboard or OSB. Under the lowest drawer will be empty space. Removing all drawers opens up the space more than if the base cabinet still had its floor. So a body can get in there more easily than ever. But even with a floor inside the base cabinet, it's no problem to get inside a 36" base.

    hope this answers your question.
  3. KULTULZ

    KULTULZ Jack of all trades, Master of none

    Messages:
    85
    Location:
    ROCKVILLE, MD
    These photos show the waste stack when I opened the wall-


    Waste Stack Non-Plumb_1 (Small).jpg

    Waste Stack- Non-Plumb_8 (Small).jpg

    You can see it was off-plumb and how it stood-up is beyond me. The clean-out is SCH 40 and the actual waste is CHL NO-HUB. The ceiling is fire rated and there was no friction clamp @ the header.

    Could you ask a plumber to snake through the closet flange or would he demand he had to find or insert a clean-out?
  4. KULTULZ

    KULTULZ Jack of all trades, Master of none

    Messages:
    85
    Location:
    ROCKVILLE, MD
    It certainly helps as I now know I am not alone with my problem.

    The trouble I see with a drawered cabinet is that the drawer divider styles would prevent actually reaching in comfortably to access the panel. I had origionally decided to put a double drawer cabinet in with roll out trays that could be easily be removed to access the clean-out. A resulting brain-fart led me to buy a drawered cabinet (misses wishes). I think I am going to have to order a roll out drawer cabinet and be stuck with the drawered cabinet.

    I was never known for my intelligence.
  5. no stiles in a drawered cabinet. What aRE you talking about? Even the lowest cost manufacturer has full width drawers the full width of the base cabinet.
  6. cast above, plastic below (?) Did the builder do this or some previous handyman?
    How much weight of cast iron is above this floor?
    I have cast iron and I didn't modify any of it. Also, I don't have the right to touch it -- in a condo. With the weight of four floors of cast above me, there is no way I'd feel comfortable with plastic, even with lots and lots of hangers.


    Your question at the end sounds like you want to install a toilet on that cleanout, and not add another cleanout above it.
    Huh? I wouldn't do that. Cleanouts are necessary. In a condo you cannot remove something that other condo owners are expecting to remain in place, as common shared property.


    I'll let Master plumbers comment from here on.
  7. KULTULZ

    KULTULZ Jack of all trades, Master of none

    Messages:
    85
    Location:
    ROCKVILLE, MD
    That is what I found when the wall was opened. The drywall had a huge bulge. I thought it was bad framing but none of the waste-vent was put into the slab correctly (in-line and plumb) and resulted in some make-do framing.

    No. I want to know if a plumber who was called in for a backup would squeeze himself through a 24" base cabinet to access the actual cleanout where shown and if there was room for him and a cleanout snake.
  8. KULTULZ

    KULTULZ Jack of all trades, Master of none

    Messages:
    85
    Location:
    ROCKVILLE, MD
    -PREVIOUS DISCUSSION of CI WASTE STACK-

    I was able to rebuild the stack with no major calamities. I cannot reduce the photo size to show the new pipe as it will not reduce itself enough to include as an attachment.
  9. anyone's arm is longer than 24". No big deal, imho.
  10. KULTULZ

    KULTULZ Jack of all trades, Master of none

    Messages:
    85
    Location:
    ROCKVILLE, MD
    My cabinet (KraftMaid) has indivdual pieces (unsure of tech term) that runs across the cabinet face that actually form the drawer openings/stops/support for hinges.

    [​IMG]

    They do not come out so accessibility to the rear wall would be near impossible. The double door 24" cabinet will come with or without a center divider.

    [​IMG]

    I just wish to have an idea (whether code or practicality) if a tech is willing to reach the clean-out by going into a 24W X 24D base cabinet.
  11. KULTULZ

    KULTULZ Jack of all trades, Master of none

    Messages:
    85
    Location:
    ROCKVILLE, MD
    There is no plumber here that can answer this question?
  12. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,240
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    C.o.

    I would not want to try to snake through the toilet opening, and I can guarantee, that if it has to be done, it will cost a lot more, because it is going to take more time to get the snake to turn down into the pipe, instead of going upwards, which is what it is going to WANT to do. That cleanout looks like it is too low to be above the cabinet's floor, and unless the cabinet is completely open, trying to access the cleanout to remove the plug, then send the snake into it, may be a daunting process also. I would do it the right way and install a cleanout in the bathroom side above the toilet. Unless that pipe goes all the way to the roof WITHOUT any other drains or vents tied to it, it is not being supported by the PVC, nor will it come crashing down if a plumber works on it.
    Last edited: Nov 3, 2009
  13. KULTULZ

    KULTULZ Jack of all trades, Master of none

    Messages:
    85
    Location:
    ROCKVILLE, MD


    THANX for the observation. The actual cabinet will have a large access opening in it's floor and all the roll-out trays will be removable. I would remove the doors and all to make it easier for the plumber. I would hate to restack it again to add another cleanout, but if that is the only way to make code.

    Do you think this is a code violation and/or will a plumber be willing to snake in a 24H X 24D enclosure (base cabinet)?

    When I restacked the pipe(s), I did support it above with a temporary brace and friction clamp.
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