Claw foot tub supply line

[PatrickOregon]

Recently installed new hardware for our old claw foot tub. The rigid supply line keeps blowing out of the top of the shutoff valve! It is held by a rubber cone washer (brass flat washer on top). I have tightened it very tight. The company I bought it from said my house water pressure is probably too high, but I checked it and it's at 65 psi. Any suggestions appreciated.

 

[Smooky]

How about an upclose infocus picture of the section that is blowing apart and and the valve you are talking about. ....

You may need something like this:

https://hdsupplysolutions.com/shop/...raight-stop-valve-1-2-comp-x-3-8-comp-p548730

 

[Sponsor]

 

[PatrickOregon]

Here's a closer pic of the culprit. I would prefer the valve had a compression ring instead, but I would also prefer to not spend any more money.

 

[Terry]

You may have a 1/2" thread at the top of the shutoff. You may be able to use an adapter there.
Though normally the rubber cone washer with friction washer works. Is it fully fitting into the socket?

 

[Smooky]

http://www.signaturehardware.com/hot-cold-metal-cross-handles-straight-stop-1-2-npt-x-3-8-od.html

http://www.vintagetub.com/bathroom/...dolph-morris-straight-stop-only-rm218c-s.html

http://www.vintagetub.com/bathroom/drains-and-supply-lines/shut-off-valves-and-handles.html

I would change them out for a good compression stop if you are not able to convert the outlet end of your existing valve. If it blows apart when you are not home it could be a very expensive flood. So you may have to spend a little to save a lot.

 

[Terry]

The current supply lines may be 1/2" nominal. A size between 3/8" OD and 5/8" OD. A true 1/2" OD which is kind of odd, but done sometimes.
I like Smooky's idea though.

 

[PatrickOregon]

So the lines are 1/2" OD. I think I will look for a conversion, or suck it up and spring for new valves . I don't think I could sleep (much less leave the house) if I don't do something more secure. Thanks much for the input! BTW this is my first post, but these forums have answered many questions I've had over the past few years.

 

[Smooky]

This one looks like it would work and it looks like it has a brass ring instead of a rubber ring:

http://www.vintagetub.com/bathroom/...dolph-morris-straight-stop-only-rm218c-s.html

 

[PatrickOregon]

This one looks like it would work and it looks like it has a brass ring instead of a rubber ring:

http://www.vintagetub.com/bathroom/...dolph-morris-straight-stop-only-rm218c-s.html

That's not too bad price-wise. Much cheaper than a flooded downstairs!

 

[Kreemoweet]

I would bet that your cone washer is not the right size (there are many, many different ones), or the tube nut is bottoming on the faucet, or the tube is not fully inserted. Or it's Made in China. Millions of old bathtubs used that setup without problem. Tightening that nut should put the Grip of Death on the tube.
It's hard to imagine how that supply tube could move if properly installed top and bottom. Usually the tubes are hard brass, which do not bend. Do yours?

Also, a single measurement of your water pressure may not be telling the real story. Measure it after you run down the
hot water supply and see what happens when the water heater cuts in.

 

[PatrickOregon]

I would bet that your cone washer is not the right size (there are many, many different ones), or the tube nut is bottoming on the faucet, or the tube is not fully inserted. Or it's Made in China. Millions of old bathtubs used that setup without problem. Tightening that nut should put the Grip of Death on the tube.
It's hard to imagine how that supply tube could move if properly installed top and bottom. Usually the tubes are hard brass, which do not bend. Do yours?

Also, a single measurement of your water pressure may not be telling the real story. Measure it after you run down the
hot water supply and see what happens when the water heater cuts in.

Well, it was made in China. The lines are very rigid, and they were fully inserted in the valve. The top nut was not bottomed out when tightened. I would not be surprised if the cone was the wrong size and/or shape.

Would the water pressure increase quite a bit when the water heater kicks on?

 

[Reach4]

Would the water pressure increase quite a bit when the water heater kicks on?

It would be limited to about 150 PSI by the temperature and pressure valve on the water heater releasing water.

 

[Kreemoweet]

Is it the supply tube moving UP or the valve moving Down? Maybe all you need to do is secure the valve and/or it's
connected piping from moving (should've been done at rough-in anyway).

I've come across many house piping systems with no (functional) expansion tank that would experience very large
pressure spikes when the water heater cycled on, due to thermal expansion of the water.

 

[hj]

IF the lines are "fully inserted", and the tub it NOT lifting up, or the valve pushing down, HOW is the pipe coming loose?

 

[PatrickOregon]

IF the lines are "fully inserted", and the tub it NOT lifting up, or the valve pushing down, HOW is the pipe coming loose?

The valve is moving down. I need to make the under floor rough in more solid. (bomb proof)

 

[hj]

The real repair would be to get new risers and cut them to fit AFTER you push the valve down as far as it can go.