Check Valve or Not?

Discussion in 'Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog' started by Pilot49, Mar 23, 2008.

  1. Pilot49

    Pilot49 New Member

    Messages:
    5
    A couple of years ago, we had a problem with sustaining pressure in our well. It would build up, then as we used it, it would fade to nothing. Then it wouldn't even build up. It was also kicking out dark sand grit, and I thought the water level was low. I had a well guy come out and check out the pump, the water level, and what he ended up doing was replacing the Check Valve where the water line exits the casing. It seemed to solve the problem. Now we are back to a similar problem. The well pressure only builds up to 40psi, and the water will run out of pressure after about a minute of two of running the water. Over the last couple of days, it has risen to full pressure on the guage a couple of times, but for the most part it hovers at 40 PSI and the pump runs constantly. I was thinking of Buying a new Check Valve and replacing it myself to see if that solves the problem again. Any other suggestions before I spend another grand to have the Well guy come out?
  2. valveman

    valveman Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    4,391
    Location:
    Lubbock, Texas
    Submersible or above ground jet pump??
  3. speedbump

    speedbump Previous member

    Messages:
    4,540
    Location:
    Riverview, Fl.
    Changing the check valve again probably won't solve anything.

    It sounds like the water level has dropped down to the pump. If it's a submersible that is. If that is the case, letting the pump run dry can and will burn it up.

    bob...
  4. Pilot49

    Pilot49 New Member

    Messages:
    5
    It's a submersible.
  5. Pilot49

    Pilot49 New Member

    Messages:
    5
    I replaced the Check Valve at the casing exit and the pressure came back full and is working good now. The less than 2 year old Flomatic check valve looks to be all loose inside, and I can see how the valve could have become hung up and not open all the way. This would explain why the pressure would eventually climb up, and then when a faucet was opened, it would drop rapidly. With the restriction, it couldn't keep up with demand. Hopefully that is the only problem for now. I will post if my fix goes bad.
  6. valveman

    valveman Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    4,391
    Location:
    Lubbock, Texas
    The above ground check valve had the poppet pushed out of it. This is caused by the negative pressure between this check valve and the one in the bottom of the well. Every time the pump starts, the pressure quickly builds up between the two check valves, changing from negative to positive pressure instantly. Then the above ground check valve gets a pop from this pressure change, much like a boxer punching someone in the face. In a short while this punching action drives the poppet in the check valve through the poppet guides and sticks the poppet into the mouth of the check valve. This restricts the forward flow and causes the problem of low or no water pressure or flow.

    Your below ground check valve could still be leaking. This is what caused the negative pressure that destroyed the first above ground check valve. You would do better to leave the above ground check valve out. This would eliminate the negative pressure condition, and would also let you see if your check valve below ground is still working or not.
  7. Pilot49

    Pilot49 New Member

    Messages:
    5
    Thanks for your comments. looks like I will take my stimulus check and use it on my well contractor and have him check the bottom check valve.
  8. Pilot49

    Pilot49 New Member

    Messages:
    5
    If I leave the top valve out, how do I know if the lower check valve is bad?
  9. valveman

    valveman Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    4,391
    Location:
    Lubbock, Texas
    After removing the top check valve, close off the water to the house. If the pressure drops any over a period of time, the lower check is bad or you have a hole in the drop pipe.
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