Chainsaw stalling

Discussion in 'Lawn Care/Landscaping' started by Bratan, Jul 14, 2014.

  1. Bratan

    Bratan Member

    Joined:
    Feb 16, 2013
    Location:
    New York
    Got brand new Husqvarna 435 chainsaw and I'm loving it except for one thing. After I get it started and it's idling, when I try to press throttle it shuts off. This happens 2-4 times in a row after which I eventually get it running. I really don't want to return as I really like it. What can it be?
    Again no issues starting it, or running after I get it going, but it almost always stalls after I open throttle right after cold or warm start. I'm using recommended 50:1 mix of gas and 2 cycle oil, and of course I have bar and chain oil in the second chamber.
    This is my first chainsaw (not counting horrible cheap Poulan saw which I return after using for half a day).
     
  2. LLigetfa

    LLigetfa DIYer, not in the trades

    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2011
    Occupation:
    Information Technology
    Location:
    NW Ontario, Canada
    It is running a little lean on the low jet.
     
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  4. Murphy625

    Murphy625 Member

    Joined:
    Jul 7, 2013
    Location:
    Michigan
    Yup.. They're trying to meet California's air quality requirements for small engines and all the carbs these days are being made so that they run lean and can not be adjusted.

    Best advice, stop buying products that conform to California's requirements.. Find good used older stuff and you'll be much happier.
     
  5. Giles

    Giles Retired tool & Die and Mechanic

    Joined:
    Aug 28, 2007
    Occupation:
    Retired
    Location:
    N.W. Alabama--Florence--
    I know this post is several days old, but you are probably running lean on the idle/low speed . You can try to get a little richer by turning the "L" screw out (counterclockwise) 1/4 turn at a time, and check with each adjustment.
    I would also adjust the "H" screw out the same way until it four-cycles (slight burbling sound). When set correct, it should not four-cycle while cutting wide open, but will when it comes out of cut.
     
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2014
  6. Bratan

    Bratan Member

    Joined:
    Feb 16, 2013
    Location:
    New York
    Thanks everyone! I'll give it a go next time I get to use the saw :)
     
  7. DonL

    DonL Jack of all trades Master of one

    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2011
    Occupation:
    Rocket Scientist
    Location:
    Houston, TX
    Is the Brake on ?

    A California carb is fine. H is high speed. L is low speed.

    You get 1 turn of adjustment.


    Good Luck.
     
  8. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2004
    Occupation:
    Plumber
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    IS the chain "loose" enough?
     
  9. WorthFlorida

    WorthFlorida USCG escorting cruise ship leaving Port Everglades

    Joined:
    Oct 28, 2009
    Occupation:
    Almost retired.
    Location:
    Lake Worth, Florida
    Hey everyone, all new 2 cycle engines can only be adjusted by a "certified" emissions mechanic. It's not CA law anymore, it's EPA. (See below) A line trimmer I bought a few months ago, (Echo) does the same thing when cold. The adjusting screw is a micro D shape head and anyone selling this tool is subject to fine. You can bring the tool back to the dealer and if he has the tool he can give it a turn. What I do is run the engine with the choke about half way closed so it runs rich and after about a minute the engine is warm enough to idle by itself. If your chain saw stalls when hot, you need to bring it the the dealer so the carb can be tweaked. If you bought it at a big box store check for authorized dealers.

    You'll find D shape adjusting screws on line every where but they are for the old machines, not the new ones. The mirco d shaope head is so small that a long nose cannot grab it. SOL

    From your owners manaul • Use good quality unleaded gasoline. • The lowest recommended octane grade is 87 ((RON+MON)/2). If you run the engine on a lower octane grade than 87 so-called knocking can occur. This gives rise to a high engine temperature and increased bearing load, which can result in serious engine damage. • When working with continuous high revs (e.g. limbing) a higher octane is recommended.

    Echo recommends 89 octane. Now sold in most stores is premix high octane non ethanol 2 cycle fuel. See picture. It will make your machine run better but it gets expensive but I tried a can and it seemed to have cleaned the fuel system and the line trimmer runs much better. I went back to my own mix.

    From the EPA, read and weep:

    What requirements apply to owners and operators of certified products?

    One of the most important part of the regulations that applies to you is the tampering prohibition—you may not disable any emission controls installed on certified engines, vehicles, or equipment. This would apply for removing emission control devices, adding or modifying hardware or software that increases emissions (of any pollutant), reprogramming onboard computers, or operating engines without any needed supplies such as Diesel Exhaust Fluid. Manufacturers explain in their owner’s manual what type of emission controls exist for each model; they may also specify some minor maintenance that must be done to keep emission controls working properly. For restrictions and recordkeeping requirements that apply for rebuilding engines and performing maintenance on certified products, see “How to Maintain or Rebuild Engines Certified to EPA Standards,” EPA-420-F-12-052 (available at www.epa.gov/nonroad/).

    Here is the law: http://www.epa.gov/otaq/highway-diesel/regs/420f12053.pdf
     

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    Last edited: Feb 9, 2015

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