Caulking technique - smooth with wet finger or don't touch?

Users who are viewing this thread

AP1

New Member
Messages
16
Reaction score
1
Points
3
Location
Olympia, WA
I'm ready to caulk the base of my new toilet. I don't caulk a lot, and I always debate whether it's better to use the "wet" technique where you apply the caulk then smooth it out with a wet finger (dipping in clean water often) or use the "dry" technique where you just apply the caulk, hope you get a nice finish and leave it alone.

The "wet" technique tends to leave a smoother, rounded finish. The downside is that it takes longer.

The "dry" (don't touch it) technique has a little cleaner, tighter look because the caulk isn't spread out. However, if you don't get a perfect bead all the way around, it can leave visible flaws.

In your experience, do you recommend "wet" or "dry"?
 

Smooky

In the Trades
Messages
2,299
Reaction score
152
Points
63
Location
North Carolina
I can run a nice even bead but I almost always use a wet finger to finish it off. I fill a small pail with warm water and put a rag in the water. I don’t lick my finger, I use the warm water. I use the rag to clean my hand and sometimes I use it to smooth the caulk or clean up excess caulk. I also keep a roll of paper towels handy for when the caulking gun overruns etc.

 
Last edited by a moderator:

Gary Swart

In the Trades
Messages
8,101
Reaction score
84
Points
48
Location
Yakima, WA
I do what Smooky does. Just try to use just enough caulk that you don't have a lot of excess.
 

Wallijonn

Member
Messages
335
Reaction score
15
Points
18
Location
Arizona
Wait for Terry's reply on caulking.

Don't use Silicone. You may only wish to caulk the front of the bowl.
 

Cacher_Chick

Test, Don't Guess!
Messages
5,458
Reaction score
213
Points
63
Location
Land of Cheese
Use the least amount of caulk needed to seal the gap when smoothed with a wet finger. Clear polysealseal caulk is preferred by many.
 

WJcandee

Wise One
Messages
3,182
Reaction score
170
Points
63
Location
New York, NY
No longer a noob, but I also am not caulking toilets every day, so take this with that in mind:

(1) You don't HAVE to use Polyseamseal, but once you've been told about it, you're really missing the boat if you don't. It won't mark up your floor like caulk does, and it comes up super-easy when it's time to change the bowl for a new one. If you get the tub and tile kind, it has anti-mold features.

(2) A big tube for your caulk gun of Polyseamseal can be significantly more expensive than plain old store-brand caulk, although not as expensive as the GE silicone caulk. And we're not talking about a huge amount of money in any event. However, you might consider the smaller squeeze tube as an option.

(3) The little caulk smearer that you can put on the tip of your finger, or the kind that has a handle, is very useful and in my own personal experience leaves a nice consistent bead.

loctite-tub-tile.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Claythrow

New Member
Messages
18
Reaction score
1
Points
3
Location
Massachusetts
Are you caulking all the way around the toilet?

I'm not a pro but don't practice this because if there is ever a problem with leaking at the drain site you are not going to know immediately. & if it is sealed tight, you are looking at quite a mess underneath the toilet by the time you find out. I've only actually seen it happen one time, & it was because they put radiant floor heat too close to the wax ring but by the time they homeowner found out (they called me to see why it smelled) the subfloor was trashed. I would rather play it safe.

But like I said, I'm just an avid diy-er, take it for what it's worth.
 

Koa

In the Trades
Messages
188
Reaction score
36
Points
28
Location
Honolulu, Hawaii
In super critical areas where I want exact caulk lines, very little to no overlap or in places that are seen up close regularly, I'll tape both sides of where the bead goes allowing for wherever overlap (if any) I want using the regular blue painters tape. Caulk the joint, smooth out the caulk leaving almost none on tape, immediately pull tape and depending on the joint, smooth once more. Just be aware how you're pulling the tape and what you're doing with the tape after you pull it off. I have a trash can nearby, especially with non water based caulks that require solvents for cleanup. You will need to work fast with the caulks that skin over quickly, just be organized.
 

JerryR

Active Member
Messages
584
Reaction score
41
Points
28
Location
Florida
I use the recommended Clear, All Purpose Polyseamseal. It goes on white and dries clear.
I tape floor and bowl base with blue painters tape
I don't caulk back of bowl
I use wet finger to make a nice bead and force caulk between bowl and floor.
I pull tape off immediately.

This week I pulled a toilet that I set last year. The Polyseamseal came off the travertine floor and toilet base with no residue, or staining. I was impressed.

loctite-tub-tile.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks