Cast or brass fitting?

Users who are viewing this thread

Jnet

New Member
Messages
4
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Schaumburg, Illinois
I'm replacing some aging copper dwv and I'm trying to figure out how far to go. Is it possible that the 4" T in the linked image is brass? Is it possible to remove the copper and replace it with PVC? I don't see threads anywhere so I can't figure how it's connected. I know I could cut the copper and use a coupler, but that will leave me tight on space. Thanks.

IMG_20151003_083507.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Jnet

New Member
Messages
4
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Schaumburg, Illinois
Sorry - let's try that image again. I can see that the pipe is soldered into a flange, but I can't tell what's going on after that. The horizontal run disappears through the foundation wall and connects to a vertical stack under a slab in the garage that appears to come up to a cleanout in the garage wall where it picks up some upstairs bathrooms. I haven't removed that rubber cap yet to see what's inside.

IMG_20151003_083507.jpg
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,863
Reaction score
4,430
Points
113
Location
IL
Does the pipe that has the cap on it attract a magnet? What about that first unpainted part below the copper, which is probably the fitting that you are asking about?

Why are you looking to replace the copper?
 
Last edited:

Jnet

New Member
Messages
4
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Schaumburg, Illinois
Thanks for the replies. Reach4 - I'm embarrassed I didn't think of that! The fitting is magnetic, so, C.I., I guess. So is the flange (unpainted part) at the top. It looks like there's a copper fitting that fits into the flange, and obviously, the pipe is sweated to the copper fitting. I see a small stripe of what looks like black paint on the copper fitting where it goes into the C.I., like maybe it's coated with something to prevent it from corroding where it contacts the C.I.? The connection between the copper and the C.I. is really clean - no pipe dope or threads or anything like that is visible.

The three inch is a short (~5') toilet waste line that currently has three 90s and a 45 before it gets to the fitting in the picture. It's really prone to clogging, and I'm pretty sure the bottom of the pipe is getting thin. I've had copper pipe split in other areas of the house. When we moved in, I found a lot of caustic drain cleaner left by the previous owners. I have a feeling that they used a lot of that, and I understand that's not so good for copper, which might explain why I'm having problems now.

If I remove the copper, I can make it a much more direct run for the toilet. Also, I want to add a combo to the vertical 3" to pick up a laundry sink & washer from the floor above. Right now, the laundry comes through the sidewall under the sink, and it drops into the the horizontal 3" with a T. Not quite ideal... I want the laundry drain to come through the wall behind the sink so I can put in a base cabinet and sink/countertop.
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,863
Reaction score
4,430
Points
113
Location
IL
OK, good. Yes, that vertical to horizontal transition should be a long sweep/combo fitting.

I was afraid you were removing copper because it looked old or had green on it.

In your photo where the CI goes through the wall, is that some kind of sleeve to pass the sewer pipe through or is that the bell of a cast iron fitting?

A search term that you will find useful for discussions on transitioning to CI is fernco donut.
 

Jnet

New Member
Messages
4
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Schaumburg, Illinois
It's a sleeve that the C.I. goes through. I have a donut already, but I'm concerned with what it will take to remove the copper from the C.I. I don't want to get stuck at the "point of no return..."
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,863
Reaction score
4,430
Points
113
Location
IL
I am not a plumber. But I am envisioning you adding extra support to the copper that you will keep before cutting. Then use a hacksaw. Then use a banded coupler to your new PVC including the new long turn combination wye.
6_D501.jpg
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks