Cast iron toile flange cemented...How do I proceed

[Scenicnh]

It's been a while since I was able to do any work. I started to change the toilet in the boiler room. The flange was broken, I made it worse by trying to break it out because the cast iron flange is cemented tight in the cement floor. The flange is slightly un-level and the floor slightly raised. I drilled out all the old lead and packing below it. down about 3" between the soil pipe and the flange to old rough stoney concrete. They is a rough gap under the flange so I have nothing to attach a new one too. The old flange is bonded to the cement floor.

The concrete has a lot more stone then usual, It was a commercial business in the cellar between in 1946-1949

I will not be putting any flooring over the concrete as it is a boiler room with a set tub and storage old shelves.


Can anyone suggest what I need to do next. Which tools I will need and how long this would take a plumber to fix correctly. I want to do this one ass right as I can. So I never have to do it again. The chisels I have are new but older craftsman set. They are smaller not heavy duty enough to break the cast iron. they also have a pretty small striking area.Thanks

 

[Gary Swart]

I'm not sure what the pros will advise, but here's what I'd do. I'd take my rotary hammer/drill and open that puppy up to access where the flange is connected to the closet bend. At that point, I'd have a plumber remove the broken flange and connect in a new one. Then I'd fill the hole to within about 3"-4" and fill, level, and smooth the rest with Quick Crete.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Scenicnh]

I'm not sure what the pros will advise, but here's what I'd do. I'd take my rotary hammer/drill and open that puppy up to access where the flange is connected to the closet bend. At that point, I'd have a plumber remove the broken flange and connect in a new one. Then I'd fill the hole to within about 3"-4" and fill, level, and smooth the rest with Quick Crete.

Thanks for the reply, The flange is attached to the cement. That is how it is held in place. No screws etc. And it is attached well. The soil pipe goes down about 2 feet an then takes a 45% turn to the right. I cannot see any seams or coupling. This house was build with a lot of extra grade materials for the time as well as reinforced really well. There were printing presses in the cellar. He stored his paper stock on the second floor.

 

[Jadnashua]

A big hammer (wear good eye protection), say at least a 2# sledge, and whack the flange. It'll probably crack, then you can pry it out of there if you've removed the lead. Were you able to pull and pry the rest of the lead and packing out? Once that's out, you may want to level the floor, otherwise, you'll want to shim the toilet when you reinstall. If the CI riser is in good shape, hiring a plumber to put a new flange in is probably your best solution...you have a moderate amount of leeway when leading it in place to compensate for at least some slant to the floor. Nominally, a toilet flange is designed to sit on top of the finished floor.

 

[Scenicnh]

A big hammer (wear good eye protection), say at least a 2# sledge, and whack the flange. It'll probably crack, then you can pry it out of there if you've removed the lead. Were you able to pull and pry the rest of the lead and packing out? Once that's out, you may want to level the floor, otherwise, you'll want to shim the toilet when you reinstall. If the CI riser is in good shape, hiring a plumber to put a new flange in is probably your best solution...you have a moderate amount of leeway when leading it in place to compensate for at least some slant to the floor. Nominally, a toilet flange is designed to sit on top of the finished floor.

Thanks for the reply, All the lead and packing is out. I may try the sledge hammer you suggested. I would like to try and do it myself if possible. Money is tight right now. Any and all suggestions appreciated, as together I to be able to get the job done.

 

[hj]

A good plumber with a hammer and chisel would have it out in about 10 minutes. As far as installing the new one it would depend on whether it would fit into the recess without enlarging the opening in the concrete. But, with the flange out the concrete would remove fairly easily.