Cast iron motor adpater cracked Goulds Motor Apapter Part#1K310

Discussion in 'Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog' started by on02151blueline, Apr 21, 2008.

  1. on02151blueline

    on02151blueline New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Here is some info about the pump & motor:
    A.O. Smith Model C48A94A06, SER 8G97, HP 3/4. Also on the A.O. Smith plate is: Goulds NO. J05853L. The cast iron motor adapter has part#1K310 casted into it.

    I have a Goulds Jet+Plus pump that the cast iron motor adapter cracked. (I think my irrigation guy didn't drain it properly before winte:mad:)


    I found the Goulds ITT manual by searching for that part number and want to order one and install it. My problem is that I can't figure out how to get the motor adapter off of the motor shaft. I have found, on this forum thank you, how to remove the impeller, but now I need to remove the spring looking thing that appears to be holding the motor adapter on to the shaft.

    My other question is, now that I have the thing apart, are there any other parts I should replace? This motor/pump is pretty old, installed by the previous owner so I have no idea exactly how old it is. It is only used in the spring/summer.

    And my last question is, when I am looking at the Goulds ITT manual I assume it is safe to say my model is a J+,right? Under the J+ series heading on the parts listing there are several columuns, J5 J5H J7 J10, J15. How do know which columun to get my part numbers from? I would like to replace the impeller, but there are four different part numbers listed under those five columns.

    Thanks in advance for any help anyone could provide me.

    [​IMG]

    Attached Files:

  2. sammyhydro11

    sammyhydro11 Previous member

    Messages:
    709
    Location:
    Massachusetts
    That spring can be preyed out with a couple of screw drivers.Unbolt the motor from the pump casing and tap the edges of the pump end. It should pop off. I would replace the shaft seat along with a a new casing gasket and guide vain O ring. The area where the shaft seal sits in should be cleaned thoroughly and the porcelain and rubber should be lubricated with K Y jelly. The seal can be pressed in using a socket as well as the spring. When pressing in the porcelain ring be careful that you press it in evenly so the rubber wont tear.

    Sammy
  3. Pumpman

    Pumpman Pump Sales

    Messages:
    191
    Location:
    So. Cal
    That pump you have is a J7S, which is a 3/4 hp shallow well jet pump.
    The spring thing is a mechanical seal, which is part number 10k10.
    The stationary half of the seal is pressed into the motor adapter. It presses in very easily with your fingers.
    You'll want to replace the seal ring, which is part 5K6, and the diaphragm, which is part 5K162.
    Inspect the impeller (2K60) and guide vane (3K67) and replace them if you see any signs of wear or cracking.
    Ron
  4. speedbump

    speedbump Previous member

    Messages:
    4,540
    Location:
    Riverview, Fl.
    That seals generic part number is PS 100. You might find that easier than the Goulds number depending on where your looking. Any motor shop should have them.

    So there actually is another use for K-Y Jelly!

    bob...
  5. sammyhydro11

    sammyhydro11 Previous member

    Messages:
    709
    Location:
    Massachusetts
    Speedbump,
    you should see some of the looks i get when i take out of my tool bag! HAHAHA!

    Sammy
  6. speedbump

    speedbump Previous member

    Messages:
    4,540
    Location:
    Riverview, Fl.
    I can imagine. Especially if the lady of the house is watching you.

    bob...
  7. on02151blueline

    on02151blueline New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Thanks everyone for the very quick and very detailed responses. I will try getting that mechanical seal off tonight. I will also start looking for where I can order up the rest of the parts.

    As for the KY, I will be certain to apply it as instructed. If you read my orginal post I belive it was my irrigation guys fault that the pump cracked as he did not remove the bottom drain bolt and it froze over the winter. When he shows his face again this winter, I will have mis-placed that tube of KY!

    Thanks again everybody.

    Tony
  8. sammyhydro11

    sammyhydro11 Previous member

    Messages:
    709
    Location:
    Massachusetts
    I think for now on i'm going to put some electrical tape over the KY label on the tube. You pull that out on the wrong person and they might think its party time in the basement.

    Sammy
  9. on02151blueline

    on02151blueline New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Thanks for everyones help!

    Just wanted to let you folks now I finally got my pump put back together. I found a pump shop clear on the other side of the country that I was able to order all the parts from, $174.00 total. Local pump shop wouldn't sell me the parts, would only do the work for me and charge me nearly what a new pump would cost. Most of the internal parts seemed fine, but I figured while I had it apart I would replace everything else. Put it back together and installed it yesterday and it works fine.

    Thanks again for everyones help!

    Tony
  10. scott b

    scott b New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Goulds j15s

    I had the same issue w/ my j15s. Where can I find the manual of a parts list for everything needed to replace the motor adapter, impeller, seals, and "spring thing"? Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!!:
  11. on02151blueline

    on02151blueline New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Goulds Manual

    I can't find my the copy of the manual on my computer, not sure that I saved the file after I printed it.

    I found it at the Goulds web site. http://www.goulds.com/

    Good Luck.
  12. scott b

    scott b New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Thanks!

    I found the manual at the link. Found all of the parts for $154.00! Thanks Again!
  13. tinman28

    tinman28 New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Location:
    new york
    same problem

    please help! i cant understand why the motor adapter cracked i drained it before winter and it is only 2 years old. Anyway can someone please help, i want to do this myself without going to a pump or machine shop. i got the pump taken apart but cannot figure out how to get the motor adaptor seperated from the impeller or the motor shaft. and i need to get the thing put back together. it seems as if you would need a press to get it back together?? i dont want to damage it. Thanks.
  14. valveman

    valveman Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    4,486
    Location:
    Lubbock, Texas
    There may be a lock screw in the end of the shaft, then the impeller screws off as in the picture above.
  15. tinman28

    tinman28 New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Location:
    new york
    Nope there is no screw. It's just flat. Could it be that it is pressed on there?
  16. nhmaster

    nhmaster Master Plumber

    Messages:
    3,189
    Location:
    S. Maine
    By motor adaptor are you talking the impeller housing? Because if that's cracked you might as well buy a new pump.
  17. valveman

    valveman Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    4,486
    Location:
    Lubbock, Texas
    No press fit. Impeller should still unscrew.
  18. tinman28

    tinman28 New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Location:
    new york
    pics.

    Guys here are a few pics of the problem i got, buying a new pump is a 500 dollar option but i would like to be able to change out motor adapter i can get one for 100 bucks. If i can unscrew the impeller how do i hold the motor shaft from spinning along with the impeller?? this pump is only 2 years old and it was drained before the winter i cant understand why it cracked.

    Attached Files:

  19. valveman

    valveman Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    4,486
    Location:
    Lubbock, Texas
    Take off the cap on the end of the motor. You should be able to get a backup on the other end of the shaft.
  20. nhmaster

    nhmaster Master Plumber

    Messages:
    3,189
    Location:
    S. Maine
    500 bucks, boy they really hose you retail. VM is correct. take the back housing off and you can get to the shaft from there. be careful with the impeller if you are re-using it, it's easy to crack that also.
Similar Threads: Cast iron
Forum Title Date
Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog Gould J10S w/ Cracked Cast Iron Parts and Other Problems Oct 30, 2013
Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog Help.......Simmons well seal cast Mar 28, 2013
Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog Lancaster Pumps Mar 3, 2011
Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog Very High Iron with Low pH and Low Average Flow Rate May 29, 2014
Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog Iron filter backwash line May 7, 2014

Share This Page