Cast Iron joint question...

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice' started by doc5md, May 19, 2009.

  1. doc5md

    doc5md New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2009
    How easy/hard is it to remove a lead joint in order to facilitate removal of the coupling; then connect to PVC with a banded fernco, etc?
    Thanks,
    Quinn
     
  2. tjbaudio

    tjbaudio Sound and Light Suppervisor for a School District

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    sound and light suppervisor for a school district
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    Wisconsin
    I have drilled out the lead and cleaned up the hub with a side grinder with wire brush. The other option if it is vertical is to melt the lead out. Tho I have drilled and then used the torch. Then use a fernco hub to PVC bushing. It is rubber and goes in with a hammer! Very good seal.

    If you are connecting to the non hub side of the pipe you need a banded coupler unless you are out side and burying it.
     
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  4. kordts

    kordts In the Trades

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    industrial service plumbing foreman
    Location:
    exurban Chicago
    You can break the pipe down to the hub and use a sawzall to cut a slice of the old pipe out, then chisel it out. If I transition to PVC, I use soil adapters instead of pvc pipe or fittings. The o.d. is different.
     
  5. nhmaster

    nhmaster Master Plumber

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  6. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

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    Plumber
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    Cave Creek, Arizona
    lead

    There are many ways to disassemble a lead joint. Each case is different depending on the size, the accessibility, and the tools you have available. The easiest way is usually to cut the cast iron off and use a No-Hub coupling.
     
  7. doc5md

    doc5md New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2009
    Thanks for the answers so far, I'll try to post a picture of what I am planning later tonight.
    But essentially, I have a CI wye in the basement on the main stack going out. It is connected to PVC and leaking. Below that is a cleanout, also seeping. I am redoing some of the plumbing and would like to put PVC back in. Ordinarily, I'd just cut the pipe above and below, but there isn't easy access above. So, it would be easiest to cut below and remove the joint above.
    Thanks, Quinn
     
  8. doc5md

    doc5md New Member

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    Apr 11, 2009
    That link didn't work for me?
     
  9. FloridaOrange

    FloridaOrange Plumbing Designer

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  10. doc5md

    doc5md New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2009
    Pictures...

    Here are some pictures. Please, keep in mind that no plumbing you see here is my doing! :)
    I'd like to disconnect the wye and go with pvc.
    Access to the straight portion of the stack above that weird S fitting is too tight, so disconnecting it would be the best option I think.
    [​IMG]

    end view of the S fitting
    [​IMG]

    The PVC fitting spectacular!
    http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2433/3549810332_ab8324e062_b.jpg
    Thanks, Quinn
     
  11. kordts

    kordts In the Trades

    Joined:
    Oct 15, 2005
    Occupation:
    industrial service plumbing foreman
    Location:
    exurban Chicago
    NHmaster, I didn't see a lead pick in that site. I just unpacked a lead joint today, I could have used one.
     
  12. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

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    Occupation:
    Plumber
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    lead

    Cut beneath the Y, then apply one heavy hammer to the side of the hub, while holding a second one against the other side for backup. Repeat as necessary until the hub becomes two pieces. You will have a bead on the end of that offset fitting, (haven't seen one of those in decades), so you will have to cut that off. What you use to do that will depend on the tools you have available.
     
  13. doc5md

    doc5md New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2009
    Thanks HJ,
    That offset fitting is wild. The house was built in 1896.
    A grinder should be able to remove the bead, right?
    Quinn
     
  14. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

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    Occupation:
    Plumber
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    bead

    Yes. The offsets were made in 2" increments up to 12". The modern ones, if you could find one, are more like 45's rather than 90's.
     
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