Cast iron flange or flange extension (?) below tile floor

Discussion in 'Toilet Forum discussions' started by gardengirl, Dec 30, 2004.

  1. gardengirl

    gardengirl New Member

    Messages:
    2
    The flange (?) underneath the toilet I removed (photo attached) doesn't look anything like anything I could find in current or archived posts. I'm not even sure it's a proper flange or flange extension -- there are no slots for bolts and the existing bolts fit into small notches in the outer edge and are locked in place by cement that underlies the tile flooring. The tile was cut out around the flange -- the surface of the tile is 1/2 inch above the flange. The previous toilet was held down by a super-thick wax ring and lots of very good caulk. I'm hesitant to install my new Toto Drake the same way, but I don't know if I can even find a proper extension or whatever it is that I need to do the job correctly. Should I abandon my ambition of doing this job myself and call a plumber to modify or replace the flange and install my toilet? (Everything had been going so well...!)
    Thanks in advance for any advice!

    Attached Files:

  2. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,413
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    The notches work well for holding the closet bolts if the flange is tight and secure to the floor.
    Since the flange is lower, you will need at least two wax rings.
    Caulking is done from bolt to bolt along the front.

    Instructions

    [​IMG]
    Last edited: Jan 4, 2005
  3. Some Lowe's stores carry products from a company called Plastic Oddities and they have a number of products (waxless seals, flange extenders, etc.) that I have used with great success. If your local Lowe's doesn't carry them, check them out at http://www.plasticoddities.com/WEBPO5/PO Catalog2004.pdf and you'll find what you need and save the money by doing it yourself.
  4. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    22,313
    Location:
    New England
    It looks to me that that is a cast iron drain, with the toilet flange attached by a lead, oakem (?) joint. Very solid, but very labor intensive to install and replace. As long as it is solid, leave it alone! You can either use flange extenders or a couple of wax rings. Just make sure the rings are together well before you set things in place cause you don't want them shifting while tightening. Ideally, the bottom of the flange would sit on top of your finished floor. You can get by with it as it is, but it is not ideal (few things in life are!).
  5. gardengirl

    gardengirl New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Thanks for the guidance-- and the reassurance that the easier way is sometimes OK. (My house has so many previous-homeowner "innovations" that it's sometimes hard for me to tell which are OK and which are not!) The nearest Lowes is 100 miles away, so I'm going with the additional wax rings. Just curious, Terry, why do you only caulk around the front of the toilet? Thanks again--
    Amy
  6. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,413
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    Where to caulk a toilet bowl.

    Plumbing code here says caulk the front of the bowl, but not to caulk the back.

    If the seal leaks, you will want to see it right away.
    The caulking in front is for boys with poor aim.
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