Can't get faucet cartridge unscrewed

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Sluggo

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I'm doing a master bath remodel in a 14-year old house and decided to replace the cartridges in the two faucet valves and the two shower valves. From the looks of some of the ones I pulled, it was probably a good idea. They look like this (new replacement on the right, old cartridge on the left):
P1110423 (Large) (2).JPG


The threads above the O-ring are what screw in to the valve body; and the hex fitting you use to screw the cartridge in or out is located right above the bottom set of threads. Last night I easily unscrewed 7 of the 8 old cartridges and screwed in the new ones. However, the last cartridge won't budge. I've tried a crescent wrench, a box end wrench, an adjustable wrench, and a pass through socket (the ones with the hole in the center so that the stem passes through the center of the socket and I can get the socket onto the 5/8" hex fitting on the cartridge. I've been pretty careful, but, brass is soft and, when I started to round off the corners of the hex, I stopped. I sprayed on WD-40, but I suspect that it's having trouble getting past the O-ring.

I've thought about putting a Vise-Grip on the hex fitting and hoping I could loosen it up that way, and I've also thought about cutting off the stem and using a 6-point impact socket of the fitting. Of course, once I cut off the stem, I've got to be able to remove the cartridge, or I'll have to install a new valve if I can't.

Before I try anything else, I thought I'd test the assembled wisdom of this group and see if anyone has a bright idea. Thanks.
 

Reach4

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Try your 5/8 impact socket and see, see if that will fit down over the threads with the shaft coming through the drive hole. Then grab the outside of the socket with the ViceGrip pliers.
 

Dj2

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They make open wrenches especially for pulling stem out.

They come in a package as a set with most sizes. Available at plumbing outlets.
 

FullySprinklered

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Had a nightmare situation like yours a couple of years ago. Same situation and concerns.

What I ended up doing is: cut the stem off to allow a deep 12pt socket to fit onto the stem. I repeatedly heated and cooled the stem/body area of the valve, trying to heat one part more than the other to try to reseparate the two entities. I just invented a new word, apparently.
Next, I took my 1/2in drive breaker bar with my new socket and fitted it onto the stem and gradually added pressure, hopefully enough to break it loose, but not enough to goober the nut faces. It broke loose and the angels sang.
This is the short version of a 5-hour visit to hell.
 

Sluggo

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Well, I finally got it out, but it wasn't pretty. I was putting so much rotational force on the head of the cartridge that I was worried about damaging the piping in the wall. The supply pipes to the valve were connected with unions so I got those apart and took the valve body into my shop. I put it in a large vise with some padding, and I got a 16" RidGid slip joint pliers out. After much straining on my part the cartridge finally broke free. There wasn't much left of the hex fitting on the cartridge. Then, I installed new cartridges and reinstalled the valve in the wall. Unfortunately, I now have a very slow leak from one of the unions -- not unexpected -- but that's another story.
 

Jadnashua

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Maybe too late now, but a bit of silicon plumber's grease on the threads might make it easier the next time.
 

Reach4

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Consider replacing the o-rings in the unions. Lightly lube the o-rings with silicone grease.
 

Sluggo

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jadnashua-
Thanks for the thought...I did exactly that when I reinstalled. Didn't want to subject the next owner to this problem.

Reach4-
Unfortunately, no O-rings: this is a metal-on-metal union.
 
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