Can this be real? $700 drip

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exj625

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Thanks. I'll take a look at how I can use brackets or something to secure it. U-bolts might be the ticket. And i'll make sure it's not resting on the PVC; will probably change that elbow to copper as suggested.

Looks like i'll skip having it done, and take care of it myself on Saturday.

thanks again for all the help -
-ed
 

exj625

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It's irrigation that hasn't been buried yet - I can't afford a copper sprinkler system!! :D
 

Devino

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My advice is to do this yourself not only to save money but also to turn that frustrated feeling you have from all those leaks into pride for making the job right. Don't just fix the leaks but redo the whole thing and start from the vertical line seen in your second image (I assume that's your supply).
If the horizontal lines in both images connect then dig down 8-10" and run a line from your supply straight over to your BFP so that the horizontal line will be underground. Place the BFP on the ground and enclose it in an irrigation box (Plastic UGV). This way the only exposed plumbing will be a vertical line coming up then one 90 deg turn in through your wall. I would also trace that pipe back through the wall (hopefully it's exposed, crawl space perhaps) then cut back to the first convenient spot where the pipe is clean and run new stuff back out. If you put a gate valve on the new vertical line you can shut off the supply to your house to do plumbing inside and still have accessible water from an outside faucet (to put out the fire from your torch). Make sure any outside faucets are past your BFP or use an anti-siphon valve, from what I see in your second image it's possible to get a siphon with a hose attached to that valve. I think doing all that would be worth $700.

Copper to galvanized steel will cause electrolysis and quickly corrode the metals, you have just made a little battery, so use like metals (copper/brass) but if your house plumbing is steel you can connect copper to it with a dielectric coupling.
When you are soldering copper make sure you heat all around the connections, you can get a break in the solder, causing a leak, due to a cold spot. Water in the old line can also cause cold spots, copper conducts heat fast and steam will actually cool the metal. For this I use good ole' white bread, no crust or seeds, roll it up making a half inch plug and push it in the pipe with a pencil. This will hold back the water long enough to finish the job and you can easily flush it out a faucet that does not have a screen, like your bath tub, just make sure to leave that valve open and all others closed before you turn on the water. There is a product you can buy for this purpose but wounder bread is cheaper and much more fun.

The way I learned how to plumb was to do a job (wrong) and then chase down all the leaks, getting frustrating I would redo it all but this time do it right. A clean professional looking job changes all that frustration into satisfaction and makes it well worth the time. You know....I think it's much more fun talking about plumbing then actually doing it, especially if there are spiders in your crawl space.
 
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exj625

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Thanks for the ideas, Devino - but you're 1 hr too late :)

I re-did the supply line side this morning; took me all of 1.5 hours, from start to cleanup. I will give my wife the bill.

I still need to do the other half, but didn't have the supplies to secure the BFP as recommended here, so that will wait until next weekend. Hopefully I"ll have a good plan by then. I decided I dont' want to secure it to the house (too far from the wall, and the siding is not the strongest), so I'll probably sink some U-shape posts in the ground, and use pipe hangers from the top.

Early on when I put the BFP in, I'd considered putting it under ground but the instructions indicated it should be above ground, or (i think) it needed a drainage path (in case the hole floods), which would be hard to do. But I like the idea of hiding all the plumbing underground, which is exactly why I put all my sprinkler valves underground as well; it looks so much nicer and well worth the effort.

-ed
 

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Wet_Boots

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Some locales will allow Double Check Valve Assemblies to go underground, but manufacturers prefer above-ground installs.

As far as the OP's RPZ install goes, adding the extra copper (post #18) will allow the weight to be sitting on the copper pipe, and you can wedge a brick under the pipe, and call it done.
 

Devino

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hj said:
BFP's cannot go underground, period.
I have seen vault installed bfp's before so you got me to look up some installation pdf's to learn what can and can't be done. I would hate to give out wrong info.
Here is a quote from Zurn.com, "WILKINS Model 350 Double Check Valve:If installation is in a pit or vault, the Backflow Preventer must never be submerged in water because this could cause a cross-connection. Make sure that the pit or vault always remains dry by providing ample drainage.
Install valve at least 12 inches above surrounding flood level."
Most of the diagrams show an above ground installation.

I thought the vault was to help protect from freezing... and crazy lawn mower drivers.
Zurn,"The Model 350 Backflow Preventer may be installed outdoors only if the device is protected against freezing conditions. Exposure to freezing conditions will result in improper function or damage to the device. The installation location must be kept above 32°F. " (emphasis added)
It appears you don't want it to freeze even if it is drained.
The old saying goes,"You learn something new everyday". With the internet it seems every few minutes is more like it.
 
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