Can I use threaded pvc adapter for future modification?

[Kreemoweet]

The Pasco tools are rude and crude compared to these guys: http://rectorseal.com/Golden-Pipe-Shredder.php

 

[Trickydick]

http://www.pascospecialty.com/catalog/PASCO_CATALOG_C.pdf it's tapered so as long as you keep the thing straight, and have a powerful enough drill motor, it just reams out the pipe, leaving a socket you can then stick a new piece of pipe into. A threaded hub will have a lip that could be a place for crud to get caught. A straight pipe/coupling done properly, is fairly smooth with the ends aligned with no threads or other rough edges to catch things. Other companies make simlar tools. A glued joint ends up being essentially double thickness, welded together. A threaded joint relies on the strength of the somewhat thinner single layer. A solvent welded joint is a lot stronger and smoother going through it.

Thanks for the advise. I need to reuse that hub in order to extend the 4" line about 6ft. to connet a 2" standpipe and a 1 1/2" drain for my laundry tub; I don't think I should have too much trouble with things collecting at the "lip"

 

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[Trickydick]

The Pasco tools are rude and crude compared to these guys: http://rectorseal.com/Golden-Pipe-Shredder.php

Thanks for the help. I agree, that pasco tool looks like you have to have a steady hand or you could ruin the fitting in no time. I saw a tool similar to what yoy posted; seems the inside pipe diameter helps guide it along. The price for this puppy is around $68, and that was a discounted price. Think for now I'll stick with my alternate plan and reuse the threaded hub with male adapter. maybe I could rent one; will check with Taylor or another place someone may know of. Thanks

 

[Hackney plumbing]

The straighter the cut at the fitting the easier the pasco is to use. just apply a small amount of forward pressure and it guides itself and cuts the pipe out. It's easy. I had the same concerns as you do the first time I used it.

 

[Trickydick]

http://www.pascospecialty.com/catalog/PASCO_CATALOG_C.pdf it's tapered so as long as you keep the thing straight, and have a powerful enough drill motor, it just reams out the pipe, leaving a socket you can then stick a new piece of pipe into. A threaded hub will have a lip that could be a place for crud to get caught. A straight pipe/coupling done properly, is fairly smooth with the ends aligned with no threads or other rough edges to catch things. Other companies make simlar tools. A glued joint ends up being essentially double thickness, welded together. A threaded joint relies on the strength of the somewhat thinner single layer. A solvent welded joint is a lot stronger and smoother going through it.

Would the residual glue have to be removed with cleaner before reuse? I've got a 1/2in drill, but woould the rpm matter? It's about 50yrs old and the old girl might not have much left. Thanx

 

[Jadnashua]

If you use any one of the socket reamer tools, it leaves a clean, properly sized socket to enable a new piece of pipe to be glued in. Well, I doubt it tapers the socket like it was in the original, but with good coverage of the cement, it should make a fine seal.

 

[Plumber111]

I keep reading his first post and getting confused. "cut my horizontal branch from a vertical 2-3" wye". Then I see the picture and go crosseyed.

Couldn't they cut to the outlet coupling of the hub, cut across the hub to the pipe, heat and peel the outlet hub away? Done it, but not often. Then take off from there. Doesn't have to buy the hub drill then. And if they fail, then they get the hub drill.

Wish there were more pics of the line. Might be a place to put in another WYE. But again, I'm kind of confused by the wording.

This is why I try real hard to avoid fitting to fitting.

 

[Jadnashua]

Peeling a pipe out of a hub sometimes works, but it's easy to mess things up too much to then glue in a new pipe, especially if you haven't done it before. The reamer tool should always work. The cement melts the plstic on both parts, and essentially, they become 'one'. It is probably the weakest link, and may split there, but it may not.

 

[Hackney plumbing]

Peeling a pipe out of a hub sometimes works, but it's easy to mess things up too much to then glue in a new pipe, especially if you haven't done it before. The reamer tool should always work. The cement melts the plstic on both parts, and essentially, they become 'one'. It is probably the weakest link, and may split there, but it may not.

That method relies some what on the fact that most people do not assemble pvc properly. I agree with you.