can I please get some shower faucet recomendations?

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Tjbaudio

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I am installing a new shower in a total rebodel of the bath room. My plan is to have 3/4" copper right up to the valve to help eliminate any temp change. The HWH is right under the shower:) The rest of the house is 3/4" coper with 1/2" from the main line to the fixtures.

What I have not figuerd out is what faucet to get. I was looking at a Delta 1700 because they seem to be popular around this forum. In my shower I want to have a shower head high and a hand unit mounted at about 4' with diverter/mixer between the 2. I also want to put a tub spout in for filling buckes however I dont want it to be the default outlet. I was thinking a simple tub faucet to feed the spout and run the shower head on its own faucet. When I go into the big box stors they keep trying to sell me body spray units, wich I don't want. The true pluming places look at me like I am nuts :eek: say they are over there heads and have to contact the boss/rep. I did not think this would be such a pain to find parts for/ assemble.

So to cap What I think I need:
1, shower valve such as Delta 1700
2, 2 way diverter valve
3, seperate 2 handle tub faucet for the bucket fill.

My origonal idea had 2 shower heads and the hand held unit:

1, shower valve such as Delta 1700
2, three ball valves with decorative trim (could not find ANY thing like this so I gave up)
3, seperate 2 handle tub faucet for the bucket fill.

Any ideas? Trim can be simple crome. maybe a good on line place since the local places dont whant to work with me?
 

Geniescience

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if you don't mind the look of the $10 ball valves, you can save a cool $100 on each one. You need a valve for every switching possibility.

I wanted to have 3/4" right up to my bathroom, and valves galore hidden in big niches like cupboards, but in the end I gave in to all that social pressure ... which works when the plumbing store people stare at your wife a long time after you tell them what you are looking for ... In the end, I paid the big price for the chrome plated brass shower diverter valves and the fancy Thermostatic valve, and the Roman tub filler set, and you name it.

To fill buckets you want 3/4" all the way including the valve and mixer.

Knowing what I know now, I'd take utility ballcock valves ($10) and put them in a deep pocket cubbyhole niche where no-one could see them but anyone could put their hand in and turn them on. People just can't get used to the idea that a $10 handle is a good alternative. Leaves more money in your investment account.


david
 

Jadnashua

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The size of the pipe may not make that much difference in the temperature at the showerhead, but if you are going to run more than one head at a time, the 3/4" valve and supply will help. You may also want to consider a temperature controlled valve (available in that series as I understand it), then, as you use up the hottest water in the tank, the valve will adjust to keep the temperature constant. Not familiar with the specifics of Delta's line, but they should have a 3-way divertor valve that would allow you to switch the output between the three outlets. It gets more complicated if you want to run all of them at the same time for some reason, though. The trim on those valves can be a significant part of the total cost.

Proper design of the plumbing when multiple heads may be used at once is very important to keep them balanced, otherwise, the one closest to the valve will normally have more flow than the one(s) further away.
 

Tjbaudio

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If I under stand the diverter valve operation I will get water from any 1 or 2 outputs and any given time.

The cost of some of the trim packages is stagering. A stamed sheet of tin with a nice finish for hundreds of $$ :eek:
 
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