Can I install a tub now and put up a cheap surround then tile later?

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Because the previous owners installed a low end Lyon's tub incorrectly, the tub is cracking (tearing?) in several places and is getting worse over time. I'm not really ready to spend $10K on a bathroom redo. The bathroom I fell in love with is NOT going to be cheap to tile.

My bathroom is 8x10 with a standard 5 foot, 3 wall alcove tub with no windows, lights or fans in the alcove. There is a window in the room. I plan to install with a 5x32 deep soaking tub (no jets/electric). Is it possible to install a new tub now and put a plastic surround up, then come back and tile later?

Here are my inspiration pics... (As you can see, I didn't inherit the frugal gene.)
craftsman-bathroom.jpg
 
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Cacher_Chick

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Sure; the only read challenge may be dependant on the tub you choose, and whether it has a tiling flange. The walls behind tile should be a concrete-type backer board and for a shower, the walls need to be waterproofed before tile is installed.
 
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Thanks. One other question. How much space do I need to allot for framing if I wanted to do a drop-in? There is only 36" from the back wall to the door molding (39" to the jam). I don't think that is going to be enough, so I will likely go with a 3 wall LD tub and a flange. I think the flange is a good idea on paper, though I'm still doing research into exactly what will work best. I would very much like to frame the exposed face of the tub for custom trim.
 

Cacher_Chick

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IMO, there should be at least 3-4" beyond the tub perimeter rim for a drop-in tub. You need space to allow for framing, backer-board, and tile under and around the lip of the tub.
 

Jadnashua

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While a drop-in tub can be used with a shower, it begs being VERY careful about how it is done! If the manufacturer offers an add-on tiling flange, use theirs, but there are other, aftermarket ones. Better yet is to buy the tub with an integrated tiling flange. There are various waterproof panels, but most of them are designed to 'snap' in, and won't work with a generic tub. Using one designed for a compatible surround, then tearing it out and tiling, often doesn't have an easy solution for waterproofing the tiling substrate.
 
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If it's a 3 piece wall you'll set up, it should be fine as long as it is correctly watertight. The right caulking job on it should have it well sealed for at least a few years.

In the event the caulking fails, you want things underneath your 3 acrylic walls that don't get wet. Cementboard CAN get wet and break down. Waterproofing measures for existing walls are costly and very thin (I see them fail too). Cementboard is popular because it is cheap, and puts more profit into a contractor.

Take a look a Schluter Kerdi-Board. It's 100% waterproof, and easy to cut and fit with a mere utility knife, and requires no more additional waterproofing. Bulky and heavy, cementboard wastes a lot of time handling it, cutting it several times as you remount it on your walls each time, just to get it to fit.
 
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