Can "any" schedule 80 PVC be used as electrical conduit...

Discussion in 'Electrical Forum discussion & Blog' started by itr674, Dec 28, 2009.

  1. itr674

    itr674 New Member

    Messages:
    14
    Location:
    NC
    I'm trying to mount two 200A disconnect panels as close to a Service panel as possible.

    In the electrical sections a hardware stores I don't see any 2" x close or 2" x 2" nipples and that's what it will take to keep these three panels close together.

    I have found some Schedule 80 2" x close nipples in the plumbing section and they will fit the bill as long as "any" schedule 80 pvc is allowed in electrical work????

    Attached Files:

  2. codeone

    codeone Code Enforcement

    Messages:
    160
    Location:
    North Carolina
    no all electricial equiptment has to be listed and labeled for its use. Plumbing pipe is not listed for electrical work.

    Why do you think you need schedule 80 for this application?

    The fittings for schedule 80 and schedule 40 pvc piping are the same.
    What you need is a 2" TA fitting and a 2" box adapter for your application.
    The TA requires a lock ring and a bushing the Box adapter glues into the TA.
    Or there is the offset fitting. All of these are from carlon

    Attached Files:

  3. codeone

    codeone Code Enforcement

    Messages:
    160
    Location:
    North Carolina
    Using the 2" TA (connector) and the 2" box adapter will keep your panels 2" to 3" apart.
  4. itr674

    itr674 New Member

    Messages:
    14
    Location:
    NC

    codeone, thanks for reply.

    I forgot about sch 40 and 80 fittings being the same--got to many irons in the fire...

    I really wanted a 1" separation, but that might not be possible. Thanks again...
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2009
  5. itr674

    itr674 New Member

    Messages:
    14
    Location:
    NC
    codeone, man looking at this closer this is exactly what I need...
  6. itr674

    itr674 New Member

    Messages:
    14
    Location:
    NC
    Got the panels up and spaced correctly and everything is spot on aligned vertically and horizontally, but now the knockouts at the bottom of the 400A and the 200A panels don't align.

    the 400A panel has the 2" knockout knocked out. I have a brand new 2 3/8" hole saw and I believe with slow and carefull drilling I can cut through the 200A disconnect panel knockouts but they will be off center and probably will require a little chalking--if that is ok.

    I could drill new holes in both panels, away from the knockouts, but then the conduitors passing through will be in the way of the ground lugs.

    Will try to post a pic on Monday...
  7. codeone

    codeone Code Enforcement

    Messages:
    160
    Location:
    North Carolina
    Looking forward to the pics.
  8. Lakee911

    Lakee911 I&C Engineer (mostly WWTP)

    Messages:
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    Location:
    Columbus, OH
    Like as in chalking your pool cue? Problem is you didn't chalk your drill bit before you drilled and it slipped off the target....

    :rolleyes:
  9. codeone

    codeone Code Enforcement

    Messages:
    160
    Location:
    North Carolina
    If you are talking about caulking, it would probably be better to use Duct Seal putty.
  10. enosez

    enosez Member

    Messages:
    88
    Location:
    Long Island NY
    Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought you were not allowed to make new knockouts on service entrance equipment. You had to use what was factory made.
  11. Lakee911

    Lakee911 I&C Engineer (mostly WWTP)

    Messages:
    1,328
    Location:
    Columbus, OH
    I'm not sure that's the case. Some service equipment doesn't have knockouts. As long as you're not into an area that is not allocated for bringing conduit and wire in (wrong compartment, not enough space, etc) you should be fine. Said conduit entry area is typically in the manufacturer's literature.
  12. Speedy Petey

    Speedy Petey Licensed Electrical Contractor

    Messages:
    991
    Location:
    NY State, USA
    You know, that's funny. When I was on LI I had heard the same thing. It is not true though. I think it is a LI myth.:p
  13. codeone

    codeone Code Enforcement

    Messages:
    160
    Location:
    North Carolina
    Nope No Problem.
  14. itr674

    itr674 New Member

    Messages:
    14
    Location:
    NC
    Chalk! OMG I still can't spell... Thanks for all the replies. Well finaly got the panels up and almost ready for wire.

    Here is a picture.

    Several more questions coming...

    Attached Files:

  15. itr674

    itr674 New Member

    Messages:
    14
    Location:
    NC
    This is a picture of the inside wall.

    1. Can this wire be run in metal conduit inside the wall, and then into the 200A boxes? I want to get as close to the rim joist as possible, then through the top plate, coming out next to the stud, and then down the stud, through the wall and into box....

    2. At the top plate, can the wire be run through a 2"x6" nipple so it will be protected.

    I built the main house out of 2x6s, but this addition is built with 2x4s and I just can't get use to them. I was paralyzed and had to have someone build the addition. So now I have to run the wire (1.5" in diameter) through a 3.5" wide 2x4; the rim joist takes up 1.5" of the 3.5", so that only leaves 2" for a 1.75" or 2.00" hole...

    How do you guys do it, if you have pics that would be nice...

    Attached Files:

  16. codeone

    codeone Code Enforcement

    Messages:
    160
    Location:
    North Carolina
    I would personally use SER cable, no pipe needed! Yuo would need a cable clamp at the box per Article 312.5(C). Also you could frame a small chase to protect the wire.
    Who is doing the work you stated you didnt do the framing being paralyzed or was that temp.? In NC you have to be liscened to prefor electrical work unless its on your own house and you are doing the work.

    PS: panels look good!
  17. itr674

    itr674 New Member

    Messages:
    14
    Location:
    NC
    Here's pic of cable coming out at original panel--it is SER best I can tell. I have a left over piece in the garage I’ll get all the numbers off of tomorrow because I would like to know what they all mean.

    When you say chase you mean something that covers all but one side of the cable? What would you make it from? I had thought about two pieces of 1' x 1.5" angle--but I'm probably going overboard...

    Interesting on the cable clamp, I thought you had to use one. Is there any reason you wouldn't have to use clamps at the box?

    It's my house and I'm doing the work with some local advice, and we're in a rural area.

    Para condition is permanent, but I can do just about anything as long as it's not deeper than -18" (dug 18" deep x 50' long trench last summer) and no more than 70" high. My wife and brother do everything above those heights--if I bug them enough.

    One other thing, I read/heard the two grounding rods have to be 6' apart. I have to go around a corner. I can put the first rod at 24" (leg a) from the corner, and since I know that c = 72", leg b of this right triangle should be 67.88" or more inches...or can I just go 24" on one side and 72" down the other side and be good to go?

    Attached Files:

    • SER.jpg
      SER.jpg
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    Last edited: Jan 21, 2010
  18. codeone

    codeone Code Enforcement

    Messages:
    160
    Location:
    North Carolina
    Sorry been gone for a couple of days. Yes that looks like SER cable. Not sure about the area you were trying to go around for boxing. I was speaking of framing out the area and covering with drywall. Yes you do need a cable clamp.The 6' needs to be the distance apart, if you turn a cornor you need to compensate for the shortining effect.
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