Building a P-trap

Discussion in 'Shower & bathtub Forum & Blog' started by SH140, May 28, 2013.

  1. SH140

    SH140 New Member

    Messages:
    54
    Location:
    Vallejo, Ca.
    Getting ready to install plumbing for new tub install, and wanted to know ahead of time if there are any limitations when installing the p-trap. I know that the standard trap is a fairly tight radius. If need be, could a trap be made with two 90o elbows with a straight connecting pipe at the bottom ? if so how long can connecting pipe be so that the trap still functions correctly? (1", 3", 12" ???) If not, is it because the trap operates more efficiently with a tight turn in a shorter length?

    Also, where there will be no access to the plumbing after the tub goes in, is it better to use only glued joints in the ABS plumbing?

    Thanks
  2. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    14,953
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    A longer run would be more inclined to gunk up.
    Glue joints are always better then slip joint where there is no access. In fact it's now a requirement.

    I've made traps using street medium 90 bends.
  3. SH140

    SH140 New Member

    Messages:
    54
    Location:
    Vallejo, Ca.
    I kinda thought that was the reason. Thanks

    I was wondering...does plastic pipe cement ever go bad? If it's still in a liquid state, is it still good to use. Mine is a few years old, but still looks OK.
  4. jimbo

    jimbo Plumber

    Messages:
    8,997
    Location:
    San Diego
    If the can has ever been opened, it is questionable. The cement should be very "liquidy". Any signs of gel-like texure is a no-go.
  5. SH140

    SH140 New Member

    Messages:
    54
    Location:
    Vallejo, Ca.
    Thanks for the tip. Because the plumbing won't be accessible afterwards, I bought a new can. Better safe than sorry.
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